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I have a leaking hard line right around the area of the clutch and the Slave cylinder line. Have any of you attempted to go from the Master Cylinder with Nickel Copper lines and then do a union about the first quarter area down the torque tube. Seems the most accessible area to cut the ine and do a flare. Will then do a union ( Not a compression fitting) with the new Line replacing the leaking one to the balance of the stock line to the back of the car..
Anyone with this problem before? Looks Like it rusted through the line at that spot mentioned. Water gathered at the plastic holder or something in that one spot? Guy at a shop wanted to go with braided lines. Pricey but I guess easier?
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by jarnold
I have a leaking hard line right around the area of the clutch and the Slave cylinder line. Have any of you attempted to go from the Master Cylinder with Nickel Copper lines and then do a union about the first quarter area down the torque tube. Seems the most accessible area to cut the ine and do a flare. Will then do a union ( Not a compression fitting) with the new Line replacing the leaking one to the balance of the stock line to the back of the car..
Anyone with this problem before? Looks Like it rusted through the line at that spot mentioned. Water gathered at the plastic holder or something in that one spot? Guy at a shop wanted to go with braided lines. Pricey but I guess easier?
Vettenuts.net
1-615-896-6100
For the most part, Marc and his guys try to remove stock brake lines, fuel lines, etc carefully and intact, on each car they part out.
Give him a call with the specific item you need. He may very well either have one removed, or will remove one from a vehicle in inventory for you. MUCH better way to go than splicing.
For the most part, Marc and his guys try to remove stock brake lines, fuel lines, etc carefully and intact, on each car they part out.
Give him a call with the specific item you need. He may very well either have one removed, or will remove one from a vehicle in inventory for you. MUCH better way to go than splicing.
The problem would be shipping an 10ft long piece of tubing without bending or crimping it. UPS? I don't think so. Well I have a shop that wants to do braided line but that is going to cost me like 300.00. May talk with him about doing the Nickel Copper instead.
Just and FYI. Pulled the exhaust and the heat shield. Well there is a 3/16 front right brake line just running behind the Clutch with union. So I don't know why splicing one in from the Master to the EBCM would be a problem as long as the flares are done right. I would Test it first of course. Start it and hit the brakes hard to see if it leaks before buttoning it up. The only other thing is I can only get the Double Inverted Flare of the 94 back type for a Union not a Bubble Union.