I've researched and researched some more on here and elsewhere and have yet to find a fix.

I bought a 2000 FRC with 95K miles. It has 2 electrical problems that bug the hell out of me.

Firstly, the truck electrics. The dash button and fob doesn't open it. The fog light button does work. The rest of the key fob works fine. The mechanical trunk release works fine. I've also tried the key method 3 times in the door with no success with the trunk. I also checked all the fuses and swapped out relays. If I jump terminals 30 and 87 Simulating power to relay #37 the rear hatch solenoid activates and hatch opens so I'm assuming that side of the circuit is not the problem. When the hatch is manually popped the "hatch open" warning on the DIC illuminates so that circuit is good too. I'm thinking its going wrong inside the BCM. Nobody I can find has reported back saying they replaced the BCM for the problem and it went away. I don't mind replacing it if it's likely the issue. Which brings me to ask, does it have to be a BCM from a 2000 like mine? Seems like 01-04 are a lot cheaper. What is compatible?

Secondly, every time I start the car and drive the car for a minute, the "Active handling warming up" pops up without fail. I can clear the warning, but the light on the cluster stays lit. No matter how long I drive, it doesn't fix itself and go away. I can press the AH button and turn on and off the traction control still. The steering wheel looks straight when driving too. I don't know what the problem is here.

I did pull all the codes from the DIC and everything was past history and none were remotely related to the trunk or AH system. I also cleaned both grounding terminals near each headlight, but they were both fine to begin with.

 

I'll see what new codes I can pull with the engine running when I get a chance. I meant relay 39. I looked up some of the wiring diagrams, but I'm not an expert on what to test exactly. I can follow specific directions if told what to do.

For now these are what I've got with codes:

BCM

B0502 H
B0507 H
B2482 H
B2578 H
B2583 H
B2587 H
B2592 H

RFA
U1064 H
U1016 H
C2120 H

 

Assuming it's a 6spd, trunk will only open with the handbrake on, is It? If so, is the handbrake light coming on indicating the switch is functioning?

 

Interesting... I use my parking brake maybe once every 3-4 months, open my trunk a few times a week. As long as my car is turned off it'll pop from the dash or remote regardless of brake. Wonder if FRC's/Z's work different in general.

 

Did you try checking (or replacing) relay #39? You can check the relay by using a jumper wire to ground the wire at BCM connector C1 pin B9 (light blue wire), the trunk should pop open. You don't have to disconnect the BCM when you do this test, and don't need the ignition ON. Connector C1 is the smaller pink connector. The pin numbers and row letters are molded into the plastic connector shell, but you need to pull the connector from the BCM and use a good light to read the tiny numbers.

Did you check fuse #26? Like Relay #39, this fuse is located in the fuse panel next to the BCM, in the passenger foot-well.

Since the FOB does not open the trunk either, I don't think the problem is the trunk release switch, or its wiring to the BCM...although it is odd that your fog light switch does not work either (it also connects the the BCM, which then controls the foglight relay).

Also check for a good ground at SplicePak 302...a high resistance will prevent the trunk release motors from working, but may provide a good-enough ground for the proper operation of the Hatch Ajar warning. (They both use the same ground point) See the below thread for info on the ground SplicePaks:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tion-long.html


Your Active Handling issue has nothing-to-do with your Trunk release or fog light issue (unless it shares the same SplicePak 302 ground).

Concerning BCM part numbers, the replacement needs to have the same part number as the original...some connector wiring was changed between the two parts.

 

Car is a 6 speed.
The brake light on the dash works.
I have tested and replaced relay 39 and checked fuse 26 along with several other.
No wetness down there.

 

I didn't realize there was a plug for the fuse box too. Which is connector 2 or is that the larger 32pin connector on the BCM? What am I looking for on the ohm meter? Continuity? I do this with the connectors unplugged and the key in or what? Thanks!

Also Ersatz928, my fog lights do work.

 

Here is the correct schematic for a 2000 FRC. Similar to the schematic posted for the later model year but with some differences. Not shown in this schematic is the ground circuit for the lid latch. The ground wire 150 goes from the latch to SP302 , cavity C and is grounded at G302.

 

I'll see if I can get around to messing with it this weekend.

I should also mention the trunk ajar circuit works as it should.

I know the trunk and AH aren't related.

I did try pulling codes with the engine running and the AH acting up. No new or different codes.

 

Driving today I noticed that when I turn right at all I get a very slight vibration like feel in the steering wheel and i think i can hear it. Its not due to tires. It feels as if the power steering rack or pump is doing it. Turning left has none of the issues. Wondering if this has anything to do with my AH issue?