99redc5vette

After alot of research I decided to go with the act ACT T1S-G01 twin disc clutch/flywheel. Been reading couple posts on the forum and everyone I using this clutch say you do not need to shim the slave or any sort balancing?
Basically plug and play!

Anyone currently running this clutch? IF so, is this true?

RedRiderZR1

Been running this clutch for years. And yes, the clutch is plug and play.

99redc5vette

Thanks for the reply!
Not sure why all the other clutches need be shimed and master replaced or flywheel re-balanced

99redc5vette

Hey RedRiderZR1
What pilot bearing you running?
Needle/Roller/Brass bushing?
Let me know! Might want to stay away from needle. Whats you think?

RedRiderZR1

Running stock bearing. Have not had Any problems with it and it's been in there a long time. About 80k miles. If running high (800hp or so) than maybe the bronze one would be better. It handles misalignment better. Why people use that one usually. Just went with stock because I never had any issues before. Stock is needle.

99redc5vette

Ya I pulled the stock needle bearing out. Damaged my trans input shaft a bit , I had to sand the burrs out. I may go with the brass style. I at 603wrhp at the moment so might be a good idea to invest in the brass. I believe the C6 have a sealed roller bearing and heard good things if I read correctly. But your right the brass will give me a bit more forgiveness!!

neutron82

I use the t2s-g01 which is rated just a little higher but otherwise nearly identical... I did not need any shims or balancing and haven't had any issues, it has been a great clutch

99redc5vette

Thanks for the reply! Looks like I choosed the best clutch/flywheel

lionelhutz

I'd strongly recommend you measure to check if you need shims or not. It's not that hard to do and could save you having to pull the driveline again.

99redc5vette

Ya I will make sure.
The shims are all under the pressure plate and you have to be within spec and should be good as per ACT

lionelhutz

No, the shims I'm referring to go behind the slave cylinder to ensure it extends enough to fully release the clutch.

Chevy Guy

The T2 uses different clutch disks too, the 6 puck type that are metallic I believe.

neutron82

my t2s-g01 has organic discs, they have a bunch of different twin options with different pressure plates and discs depending on what you want

Chevy Guy

How do you like it? Talked to their support and they recommended a T1S-G05.

neutron82

I like it a lot, it's handled 850hp without skipping a beat and shifts like butter at 7k rpm... I'm not familiar with the one you mentioned, I'd have to look at it

Chevy Guy

Same clutch system, the "1" has a little less clamping force on the pressure plate than the "2", and the G05 is a slightly heavier flywheel, says it would be better on the street

neutron82

cool, so they aren't much different... do you have a cam?... I did notice the weight difference when I installed mine but it is mostly a good thing for me, the car revved noticeably quicker (like boost doesn't help that already)... I have a small/medium sized cam and it would always buck a tad when driving very slow, like under 1500rpm in traffic or cruising through a parking lot and the lighter clutch did amplify that ever so slightly... I just keep the rpms high enough to prevent that from happening, you might get some weird looks though but oh well haha

Chevy Guy

yeah - supercharged with a cam, I get some surge now, so I expect more with a lighter flywheel.

neutron82

it isn't bad by any means but is noticeable... the clutch you are looking at may not be quite as noticeable as mine since it is 4 pounds heavier