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I recently installed a set of strange drag brakes on my 1999 Corvette. No matter how much I bleed them I still get a spongy pedal. I talked to a tech at the strange and he told me I must switch to a manual brake booster because that's what the brakes were designed for. He also stated that I probably don't have enough pressure and I should be at 1400 pounds. I will check within the next day or so when I get a brake pressure tester.
So here's the question. How will me putting a manual set up affect the car? How will it affect the ABS system? Will I have to delete anything else or am I opening up a can of worms here?
If you intend to still drive on the street, I'd get rid of the Strange brakes. Maybe consider switching to Wilwoods which are designed for C5's and the street.
If you intend to still drive on the street, I'd get rid of the Strange brakes. Maybe consider switching to Wilwoods which are designed for C5's and the street.
Yea, I'm kinda at a standstill here. I've already cut off the factory caliper mounting points to install the strange kit. The strange kit also spaced the wheels out another 1/2 inch and I've already got $1200 worth or CCW wheel lips coming to change the wheel offset . I'm kinda committed to this. Looks like the strange manual master is $100 so I'm leaning that way. At this point what's another $100 out of curiosity? Strange Engineering is only about a 30 minute drive.
I've been using the Strange Brakes now for a few years without any problems, so there is some hope. They work great on the street. I've even had to hit them pretty hard a few times. I wouldn't take them auto crossing of course but, zero issues for street use. You'll be happy with your decision.
I've been using the Strange Brakes now for a few years without any problems, so there is some hope. They work great on the street. I've even had to hit them pretty hard a few times. I wouldn't take them auto crossing of course but, zero issues for street use. You'll be happy with your decision.
That's reassuring. Thx. I seldomly drive the car to begin with and I'm pretty carful when playing on the street. Thx.
Anybody else have Strange drag brakes on the rear of their car ? The guys at strange don't really have a solid direction for me to go in order to get my rear psi from 800 to over 1000psi. Seems like a 1.25 inch master bore and changing the pedal to a 1:6 ratio is what I have to work with.
So you got the manual booster and it's still not happening?
Not yet, I've been talking back and forth with the guys from Strange all last week and they haven't come up with a guaranteed solution so they're kinda reluctant to recommend a particular course of action. At this point it seems like their only suggestions are a 1.25" manual bore master and 1:6 pedal ratio. I'm pretty much at the point that I've just gotta throw parts at it and see what happens . I kinda understand their position that they don't want to hear any bitching if their recommendations don't satisfy me. Thursday I'm taking a ride to Strange to get parts and either solving this issue or being forced into another direction.
I just missed a no prep streetcar race and I'm a little sad after hearing that I've got 90% of the entrants covered.
The larger bore will lower the pressure. But the up side is that it will likely boost the volume- which is what you need.
My guess is that the rear calipers have in inordinately large bore and piston area. Nearly anything greater than 3sq" (or 4 x 1.375) will net the soft pedal. And boost the rear brake bias significantly vs the fronts. Do you know the spec?
From my experience these rear drag kits are nice when fit to a proper built car for drag racing but less effective and balanced when installed on street vehicles.
The larger bore will lower the pressure. But the up side is that it will likely boost the volume- which is what you need.
My guess is that the rear calipers have in inordinately large bore and piston area. Nearly anything greater than 3sq" (or 4 x 1.375) will net the soft pedal. And boost the rear brake bias significantly vs the fronts. Do you know the spec?
From my experience these rear drag kits are nice when fit to a proper built car for drag racing but less effective and balanced when installed on street vehicles.
From what I can tell they advertise the Pistons as 1.75" in the 4 piston caliper. Seems like that would explain the soft pedal. Now which direction do I go ? I thought about going with another manufacturer but I can't find anything that fits a 16" rim. Wilwood requires at least a 17" wheel so I'm kinda stuck.
My current setup is Strange on the front. OEM on the rear.
Manual master. No booster.
Obviously, no ABS/TC.
My OEM pedal feel is nice and solid.
So, I can't offer any help on your particular setup. Just adding my experience with my system.
Good luck with your project!
Thx. Gives me hope that I can make this happen. 😎 My motivation behind this was to get the rear brakes to hold the car back so I can foot brake over 4000 RPMs to spool my turbo. The car stopped perfectly fine with room to spare at 141 mph with factory brakes.
For that, I'd think you would need dual caliper brakes back there.
I'm so close now. I can foot brake the car to 3700 on the factory brakes. I really don't want to loosen the converter anymore. Having a 16" wheel really makes getting good brakes challenging. I can leave on about 2lbs of boost and 60ft in the 1.56 range. If I can leave at 5 lbs I think I can 60 foot enough to drop my ET a good amount.
I'm in the beginning stages of learning about turbo builds, as I hope to have a build coming up next winter.
What size are you using for your hotside? Will the turbo spool better with smaller diameter header primaries?
It's got 1 truck manifold and 1 factory ls1 manifold that go into a 2 1/2 inch crossover tube. I'm thinking I'm about as small as I want to go since my turbo will support well over 1k RWHP. Generally a smaller hot side will help spooling but I think I'm as small as I should go. If I stab the throttle from a stop, the boost starts coming in like a freight train after about 30 feet. I've got a boost leash to control the ramp rate.
ok. Thanks What about timing and fueling at the RPMs you're working with?
Interesting conundrum you have. need more boost... get better brakes to hold it while building boost... more boost needs stronger brakes... stronger brakes allow for more boost... more boost needs better brakes... vicious cycle... lol
I hope you get it figured out... so the rest of us might be able to learn a bit about the intricacies of builds like these.
ok. Thanks What about timing and fueling at the RPMs you're working with?
Interesting conundrum you have. need more boost... get better brakes to hold it while building boost... more boost needs stronger brakes... stronger brakes allow for more boost... more boost needs better brakes... vicious cycle... lol
I hope you get it figured out... so the rest of us might be able to learn a bit about the intricacies of builds like these.
Lol. IDK. My tuner tried all different combos just to get the 2lbs to built. That's the most he can get. If I stay on the 2 step long I can build 3lbs but it's not worth putting heat into my new trans. Lol.
I figure it like this. If I can 60ft a little better I can probably go 9.70's at 15lbs. The alternative is another tune for more boost and run it out the back door to go a few tenths quicker. My injectors are close to 92% duty cycle and my MAP is about maxed out too. Getting the car tuned for 5 more lbs of boost may run close to $1800 . Lol. It never ends.