I have a 402 stroker forged internals and block, fully built about 3 years ago 10k miles on the motor street only car. I bought the car about 5k miles ago. Ever since ive had its consumed oil here and there, at first i thought it was my valve covers on the passanger side because of the smoke coming off my headers. It ended up being my oil breather was saturated that little brillow pad looking matt inside the head of the breather due to no baffels in the valve covers, did an oil change prior to all of this and once i pulled my dipstick it was right at the add line. 600 miles ago. Not sure exactly how many quarts it is from the full to fill line which i why im asking if my saturated breather was causing that much oil loss, everything else is clean oil is perfect color no burnt even after sitting all winter with 6000 mile oil pulled the dipstick looked brand new, it does at start up spray out that black carbon/water mixture out the tail pipe which i know isnt oil because once it drys on the driveway you can literally whipe it off with your finger its like chalk... fully operating pcv to catch can system on the drivers side which i just started to learn how to use i just recently replaced the breather and a new grommet but i wasnt able to find a gromet that was meant for non baffled valvecovers the ones with the sliced ends to keep **** out. Could my breather caused that much of a loss??? You can smell it dripping off the breather when you nail on the car or when it decides it wants to drip, no smoke coming from the tail pipes no oil burning smells.. if this helps at rolling idol on a 60° night oil psi usually runs about 40-55 at idol on cold start but once the car hits 220 from me nailing on it when im driving around the oil psi will linger in the 28-35 area when running that temp. I have a be kool HD radiator "big money" brand new fluid pressure test. Fans a little noisey. Car has never over heated runs at that oil psi and makes that adjustment when the motor gets to that temp wether outsidr temp is 50° or 95° it gets to that 220 mark and never goes past it no matter what outside temp looks like. If that means anything at all..

 

Those oil psi numbers are off the dash. And those are dead stop idol numbers i quoted**

 

Is the breather on the oil cap? I have a 418ci stroker and after much research, decided not to run one as it wasn't needed. TSP built my motor and at 220deg oil temp, my idle psi is around 36-38. My car takes 7quarts to fill. Ive had mine now over 10k miles and I may used a half a quart? Sometimes a lil more sometimes a lil less at 3k mi change intervals.

 

Yes Its To relieve crank case pressure, its a really old school setup, i should prolly switch over to a evac pump off the crank case and just rid most of my pcv system and call it a day

 

I understand that is the purpose it is serving but I'm curious as to why there is so much pressure in the first place. The stock pcv isn't designed for the extra cubes, hence why most either go with a catch can but its still pushing pressure like that along with a catch can without boost....im just curious.

 

I have an procharged 347 forged, with a breather cap. For me it is necessary and critical to relieve crank case pressure. I do need to add about half a court of oil about 3-5000 miles. It does not bother me, Plus, I just clean the breather cap with K/N cleaner, works great until next time.

 

As I mentioned earlier, you are boosted and pressures are much greater. I'm curious as to who built the engine.

 

Texas Speed built it.. I use a Moroso bypass separator. Where the pcv valve is connected thru it and seperates oil from going into the intake. Helps somewhat, but oil still gets into intake.
This is an much disputed subject on this site about proper crankcase ventilation and oil consumption.

Thanks Chris

 

Definitely is. I was more so asking about the op's build. Mine came from Texas Speed as well