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Car gauges go crazy when trying to start the car. Car will not start. Makes a crazy clicking noise where the fuel pump relay is, when trying to start car. Noise goes away when remove fuel pump relay. Tried switching out relay, no change.
Can't get codes to come up, maybe due to replacing the battery? When I try to get codes to come up, keeps coming up active handling failure, charging system failure, ect. Fuel rails not charging when turn key most times, if I hear them charge, the car will start.
Sorry, new to this. It is a 2001 C5 coupe, LT1, stock, automatic with about 100,000+ miles on it. Problem started last fall. We thought it was the battery so we bought a new gel battery. Didn't make any difference. We have had issues before due to wires in passenger door, which we fixed. These current issues are completely different than what we experienced at that time. Before the problems started, we were having problems with the gas gauge reading empty when there was gas in it. It usually started working again after putting more gas in it. Not sure if there is any connection. Have started cleaning all the grounds, having completed 4 of the ones up front. No change so far. I think there are 13 in total. Was hoping someone could point us in the right direction. Going to keep cleaning the grounds, hoping it is something as simple as that. Oh, and it won't clear the messages in the DIC so I can't get codes to come up. Going to check the solenoid tomorrow.
Last edited by Steve 56; May 26, 2017 at 09:17 PM.
Another thing you can check is the 6 pin connector that is located in each A Pillar. Here is a link to a thread that has some pictures as well as a list of some of the symptoms that can be caused by these 2 connectors:
The 3rd from the last picture in post #1 shows the black 6 pin connector in question. It can be accessed by pulling back the black accordion boot at its connection point to the A Pillar and fishing out the two connectors that are hanging inside the A Pillar. The black connector contains an appearance of the serial data buss and when the connector makes poor contact due to the damaged pins it corrupts the information on the serial data buss and that can cause all sorts of crazy symptoms including the ones you listed. The contact surfaces in each half of that connector are soft and easily become malformed. Before you go into the connector to try and straighten any damaged pins you should disconnect the battery neg cable because some contacts contain battery voltage.
Another place there is an appearance of the serial data buss is the connector under the drivers seat. Often that gets damaged by a previous owner removing the drivers seat and not correctly securing the wiring upon reinstallation of the seat. The connector can then drag on the carpet as the seat is operated leading to the same type of symptoms.
One way to eliminate all 3 of these connection points at the same time as the source of the problems, is to go into the passenger foot well and find the two star connectors. Here is some info on the star connectors to help identify them:
The first pic show the two connectors next to the BCM (aluminum can in that picture). The second shows the shorting bars exposed by removing the top of the connector.
If you remove the shorting bars from the smaller of the two connectors you are effectively disconnecting the serial data buss wire from the two door control modules and the seat control module. Look at the wiring diagram to see that the small star connector services these 3 modules. With the shorting bars removed you will no longer be able to operate the electricals in the doors (windows, mirriors etc) nor be able to move the drivers seat/telescopic column but doing this allows you to see if the symptoms have gone away and you can start the car and pull codes.
If the symptoms are gone then you need to, one wire at a time, reconnect the purple wire in the half of the connector containing the wires to each of the other color wires.. After connecting one retest to see if the problems have returned. By process of elimination you will find which module is the source or the problems so you can address that.
PS I assume you meant that the engine was an LS1 and not an LT1.....
Hi
Thanks for all your help. Been so busy with work, have not had much of a chance to work much on it. I did mean LS1 not LT1. I did remember one of the codes that a friend got for me from a SnapOn scan tool, it was P0606 - PCM Internal Communication Interuption.
been super busy at work and have not had much of a chance to work on her but have cleaned some more grounds. also pulled starter and cleaned everything. tested starter and works great. cleaned all connections on solenoid. I did remember one of the codes a friend pulled off with a snap on scanner, it was P0606. there was more, trying to get hold of friend for the rest of the codes. will post when i get them.
we can not pull codes because we can't get the messages to clear. we have tried everything. we have cleaned pretty much every ground on the car with no luck. the battery is brand new gel battery but something seems to be draining it. the car will not start. seems to me like something is shorting out on the car. could ignition be bad? or pcm bad?
that is what i was thinking. trying to get ahold of him because we saved the codes, just need him to pull them up and read them to us. PCM not programmed is not the issue, have owned car for several years. another code my son remembers is P1518. I really appreciate your help. I am at my wits end with the car. BTW, the battery is brand new.
Ok, pulled up the codes off the snap-on scanner and in addition to the P0606 and P1518, it also said P1571. We have checked to see if there was a previous battery leakage and it did not appear so. Will be pulling cover off to access PCM and TAC when I get a chance, hopefully next week. Maybe something to do with the EBCM? Come to think of it, the traction control light started to come on a couple of months before the car quit running. Occasionally, it would come on but would go away the next time you started the car. Still thinking something is shorting out on it. Everytime I try to start the car, it drains the brand new redtop battery quickly and we have to recharge the battery.
There was a crazy thread on here not too long ago, where the guy ended up finding his problem through the EBCM. It had a short and causing all sorts of problems.
Interesting that there were no other codes except PCM related. I have to wonder is this is because there were no others or the scanner being used does not how to deal with vehicle specific codes for your Corvette.
I would have expected several other sensors that communicate with the PCM to have complained (generated codes) if the PCM were truely dead but I don't have actual experience with a dead PCM to back up that suspicion.
If you want to disable the EBCM because yo suspect it then pull fuses 52, 53 and 5 in the underhood fuse box to see if that makes any difference in being able to pull codes via the DIC. I suspect that you don't yet have all the DTC's stored.....
Just came in from removing access panel to look at PCM and TAC. I have not yet removed the PCM but from what I could see, it looked pretty rough. Will try to clean it up and will definitely pull those fuses and see what happens. I have a feeling we are narrowing in on the cause or maybe it is just wishful thinking. Just want to thank all who are trying to help. It is really appreciated.