LannyL81

Still having a problem with the tach; sometimes the needle just bounces for 0.5 sec, other times the needle drops to zero for a sec. So this past week I removed the IP, took the connector off and check for any bent or pushed contacts - all was good. Seated connector and then before I got the dash completely back together, connected battery and had no DIC.

Got IP loose and re-seated connector again. All lights, display working normally. Put dash back together. Went for a drive today and no tach at all. Smacking top of dash does nothing, tach dead.

Have IP out and removed cover off of circuit board to check for bad/cold solder joint.

Be really nice to have the IP connector pinout....could someone please post it....I never got the manual for this Corvette like I have all the others...and of course I need it.

Would really appreciate it.

Thanks in advance.

LannyL81

Well...not just the tach signal wire; plugged IP in, turned key to ON, self-test good, everything working. Started engine and no tach, just barely touching IP connector and entire IP would drop-out....move connector a micromillimeter and self-test started again....this repeated several times. I could not get a steady operating IP.

Removed IP and began lightly tugging wires of IP connector and one wire pulled out. Unfortunately I did not see exactly what slot it came from...have four choices.

So I REALLY need that IP connector pinout now.

Greg_E

What year. It's not in your profile.
Sending you a PM.

LannyL81

My signature is gone..... crap.... not my day.

I have a 2004 vert, manual.

LannyL81

That is just what I needed; now I can put that wire back onto the connector body.
A big THANK YOU to both of you.

LannyL81

FINAL:
Well...what I ended-up having to do was to carefully remove each terminal of the IP connector and CAREFULLY bend the contact areas so as to be a "tighter than when new," re-install each terminal using the pin-out from above.
Re-connected connector into back of IP and after self-test started engine, had a tach, wiggled connector and no more drop-outs.
Getting the connector back onto the IP required some pressing due to all the tight terminals but appears to have cured the problem.

HOWEVER I got the "Pull Key and Wait 10 sec" message the last time I started engine. This is the first time I have ever seen this in my 1.5 years of ownership.
Guess it is time to get/install an LMC5.....

LannyL81

Yep, did #2 above...did not know that. I did turn the engine off and removed the key for a good 20 sec, so should be good. And since I had done several engine starts, short runs, pulled codes....the battery was down a bit so I put the trickle charger on it.

I also wanted to make a comment on the IP connector:
the terminals used are really a "one time mate" as they become loose when un-mated the first time. After several mate/un-mates, they no longer make contact.

So if anyone if having a similar problem and have taken the IP out in the past....this is likely the cause and you two will get to CAREFULLY remove each terminal and bend them. I should mention that I probably spent a good hour+ doing this.

Thanks again for all the help....could not have done this without you.

LannyL81