When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
C5 Corvette short shifter rattle resolved - it's the design - another solution
Bought this Vette with a B&M short shifter previously installed.
After doing everything the multiple threads told me to do over the course of 2 months I finally gave up after reading a statement in one of the threads to the effect of, "All after market short shifters rattle and if your doesn't then you are blessed and should be kissing the ground you walk on. If you want to get rid of the rattle put the stock shifter back in." So I did. Rattle gone!
Don't recall the following was in any of threads on this topic.
When you take the stock shifter out it's highly unlikely you'll ever notice a very small yet very important detail. But if you ever put one back in you can't miss it, the mounting plate floats about an 1/8" inch above the linkage box. Put the B&M in, seats down firmly against the box, put the stock in, doesn't. Said "what the hell", threaded the bolts to where they bottomed out on the plate, leaving the gap, went through the gears, felt fine. Finished tightening the bolts in a cross pattern, evenly bending the plate down onto the linkage box. Went through the gears, very nice and smooth. grabbed it down on the fat part of the shaft, went through the gears again, very nice action (short shifter?). Took it for a drive, shifted just fine and no rattle.
The thin metal plate is designed to bend, acting like a spring, keeping the pivot cup pressed down into the linkage at all times (potentially sliding across the bottom plate of the linkage box). The B&M and Hurst shifters use solid thick aluminum billet that clearly does not bend, and neither have done anything to push the pivot cup down. It appears that this is the source of the rattle, the pivot cup is floating. A big thanks to my old timer friend who has seen his share of automobiles and insisted the rattle is down deeper and has nothing to do with the shift ****. Honestly the stock shifter just beats the pants of the B&M for a smooth and groovy feel between gears.
A possible "short shifting" solution for you!
Nonetheless, the stock shifter throws one hell of a wide arc of motion going through those 6 gears. I ended up using a hollow 2 1/4" ball shift **** that screws on with a lock nut underneath. It was one of the "test" ***** during this rattle journey. I also checked out shifting by grabbing the shaft underneath and that was great too. The stock shifter is also fairly high. The answer? Shorten it. There is a generous amount of rod underneath the factory cut threads leading to a nice flair out which helps with the cosmetic look of the shift boot elastic top. All you have to do is cut virgin threads and cut the shaft. The shift **** is hollow inside so the top of the shaft is about a 1/4" below the top of the ball.
Directions
!! C5 and C6 ***** likely will not work any longer without modification because the notched area is going to be partially or completely removed when you cut the shaft to shorten the stick. These directions assume you already have experience cutting threads. !!
1 Purchase a 9/16-18 HSS (high speed steel) hex die, about $30-40. Don't use carbon steel for cutting virgin threads. You'll need some kind of machine oil for cutting the threads.
2 Remove shift lever assy from the top of the linkage box. The directions for the B&M or Hurst product on their website will tell you everything you need to know.
3 A table mounted vice is required. A lot of torque will be applied. If you can cut slots into some wood you'll get more grip with less pressure from the vice and you won't scratch the shaft up.
4 Identify which side of the die starts the thread and start threading that side. Resistance is going to show up fairly quick and a wrench is required for the rest of the process. Apply oil every quarter length of the tread cut till you are done. Typically this part would be easy because the threads are already cut but not here. Threading is sometimes expanded or contracted from standard size to create a tighter or looser fit from standard. these threads also have a finish on them which can also expand the thread size.
5 When you get to the virgin cutting of threads you'll know it. This is where how tightly you have the stick in the vise and whether or not it wobbles around is going to show up. Groove cut wood panels for the vice make a big difference when you get to this point. Keep oiling and turning until the bottom of the die face reaches the top of where the fluting starts. Congrats, you have new threads. Now turn the die the other way till you reach the top. Mine was cut twice but didn't seem to make any difference.
6 You might notice the virgin thread size is off, it looks larger. that's the "special thread" thing. Put the lock nut or **** on though and for the first time they spin like a well oiled machine.
7 Put the lock nut on screwing it down into the virgin thread area. The top part of the stick has a notch cut into it. Mine was cut where the notch ends with a Dremel and cutting wheel. Cut the stick. Wind the lock nut off and when you get to the end hopefully it comes off clean, and if it doesn't, work it out with the nut, that's why it was put on first.
8 Install the stick by tightening the bolts in a cross pattern, evenly bending the plate down onto the linkage box. Push the clutch in and check your work.
Never used a ball shift **** in my life and it feels just fine. Google "ball shift ****" and that will get you connected with lots and lots of choices to ponder in creating your look.
final result final result Stock shifter B&M shifter
Nice DIY and thanks for sharing. I went another route. Purchased the TPS 427 shifter and put a modified C6 shift **** on. It is based on the C6Z06 shifter, maintains the GM box and has a shortened and angled shift handle. It reduces the throw and, at least for me, is at the angle best to grab and run through the gears. Shifts smoothly, no rattles, and shorter throw than stock. I may just take my old shifter and box and modify as you describe as a back up. Just another option.
My journey kept implying it was the ****. Some folks said the right **** fixed theirs. The C5 *** is unique due to the divot you pound into place which convinced me that it would settle the matter of the **** rattling - it can't - so it could be the end of the problem or my friend was right, the rattle is deeper down in there. Found a stick with linkage box, ****, and boot for $100, my perfect price range, and not spending more on anything else (about $4k into it!!!). If the **** didn't fix it the stock stick was going in!
Turned out the friend was right, the **** didn't rattle, and the B&M stick did. I was left with a woody subdued rattle that was still just loud enough to irritate but way-way better than any other ****. Nonetheless, the C5 **** was OK but not my first choice between the red ball and a C6. Installed the stock stick, took a drive, and for the first time since buying the Vette I was able to really hear it roar, reminding me of the very first time I heard that 8 cylinder rock and roll music on a test drive.
The TPS 427 shifter looks like a modified stock so ya, I bet it works great! Looking at a picture of both side by side it appears about a half inch shorter. How much was it?
Glad to hear MGW provides something worthwhile, "giving the smoothest throw and the least amount of shift effort" is what I expected. And they replaced the linkage box as well! Not spending that kind of money at this time.
The B&M appears to be leaving the pivot cup floating, hence the rattle. The pivot point has been chaged from stock to further decrease throw range. All of this adds to the "precise mechanical feel". Can't deny it feels more mechanical and precise and equally more demanding on me. It was also more physical effort. After this mod, I'm quite satisfied. I don't care were you hold the stock stick, it feels way better. And, drum roll, way faster because now you are gliding from gear to gear.
My journey kept implying it was the ****. Some folks said the right **** fixed theirs. The C5 *** is unique due to the divot you pound into place which convinced me that it would settle the matter of the **** rattling - it can't - so it could be the end of the problem or my friend was right, the rattle is deeper down in there. Found a stick with linkage box, ****, and boot for $100, my perfect price range, and not spending more on anything else (about $4k into it!!!). If the **** didn't fix it the stock stick was going in!
Turned out the friend was right, the **** didn't rattle, and the B&M stick did. I was left with a woody subdued rattle that was still just loud enough to irritate but way-way better than any other ****. Nonetheless, the C5 **** was OK but not my first choice between the red ball and a C6. Installed the stock stick, took a drive, and for the first time since buying the Vette I was able to really hear it roar, reminding me of the very first time I heard that 8 cylinder rock and roll music on a test drive.
The TPS 427 shifter looks like a modified stock so ya, I bet it works great! Looking at a picture of both side by side it appears about a half inch shorter. How much was it?
Glad to hear MGW provides something worthwhile, "giving the smoothest throw and the least amount of shift effort" is what I expected. And they replaced the linkage box as well! Not spending that kind of money at this time.
The B&M appears to be leaving the pivot cup floating, hence the rattle. The pivot point has been chaged from stock to further decrease throw range. All of this adds to the "precise mechanical feel". Can't deny it feels more mechanical and precise and equally more demanding on me. It was also more physical effort. After this mod, I'm quite satisfied. I don't care were you hold the stock stick, it feels way better. And, drum roll, way faster because now you are gliding from gear to gear.
I installed it, the C6 shift **** and did the "venon" mod to the trans ( a brass washer where the detent ball is). It has been very satisfactory to date.
06-19-2017, 08:55 PM
C5 Corvette short shifter rattle resolved - it's the design - another solution
[/URL
