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I'm 5k miles into using an LS7 in my bolt on 2000 C5 and I love it. Drives like stock.
I also had an LS7 in my 6.0 LS swapped 5 Series and it worked flawlessly there as well.
An LS 5 series? Fking sweet man. E39? I've got a friend with an E39 530i Sport 5MT who's looking for something like that. Car has over 180K and it won't die. But if it does I have to convince him to go LS.
An LS 5 series? Fking sweet man. E39? I've got a friend with an E39 530i Sport 5MT who's looking for something like that. Car has over 180K and it won't die. But if it does I have to convince him to go LS.
Got any pics or info?
Yes, I did the whole build myself and documented the best I could. I bought it bone stock 2011, swapped it in early 2013, sold it in late 2015.
I've had an LS7 clutch and flywheel for about 10K miles now and I'm very happy with it. A little stiffer than stock but I really like the feel. I'm at about 342 rwhp, so there's plenty room for more if I want.
I'd suggest getting a lightweight flywheel with the ls7 clutch/pp combo cause that thing weighs a ton. An aluminum flywheel brings it down to the weight of a stock ls1 clutch. Several vendors sell an LS7 clutch kit with aluminum FW.
I'll vouch for my setup being factory street easy while also being able to handle power.
MacLeod RST which is rated to 800tq and easily upgraded to eat status if needed. Soft pedal like new.
Finanza lightweight 11lb flywheel. Rev matching when shifting is instant now. I've seen no issue off the line. Though now I am near to finishing a new used with a blower, so results may change.
Definitely recommend:
Tick remote bleeder
Tick master cylinder (pedal remains light, engagement becomes adjustable and way less travel)
Remember to replace or upgrade the torque tube couplers
And if not already done, an MGW shifter and Gripper **** put you in good contact with the machine.
For $1 and ten minutes or less of time, go ahead and do the anti venom mod. Single ring makes it perfect. M20x3/4" copper washer on the detent plug. Takes the notchy out of finding gears.
I have the ls7 clutch on a stock ls6. I DD it and have ~5k on it. Works great, no slip and it feels like the stock LS pedal felt. Do yourself a favor and get the remote bleeder and tick master cylinder. Great feel and adjustable settings with the tick MC. If I were to do it over again, I'd get the Al flywheel.
I'm 5k miles into using an LS7 in my bolt on 2000 C5 and I love it. Drives like stock.
I also had an LS7 in my 6.0 LS swapped 5 Series and it worked flawlessly there as well.
Originally Posted by Mickeyrx70
I've had an LS7 clutch and flywheel for about 10K miles now and I'm very happy with it. A little stiffer than stock but I really like the feel. I'm at about 342 rwhp, so there's plenty room for more if I want.
Originally Posted by SaberD
I'd suggest getting a lightweight flywheel with the ls7 clutch/pp combo cause that thing weighs a ton. An aluminum flywheel brings it down to the weight of a stock ls1 clutch. Several vendors sell an LS7 clutch kit with aluminum FW.
Originally Posted by Proletariat designs
I have the ls7 clutch on a stock ls6. I DD it and have ~5k on it. Works great, no slip and it feels like the stock LS pedal felt. Do yourself a favor and get the remote bleeder and tick master cylinder. Great feel and adjustable settings with the tick MC. If I were to do it over again, I'd get the Al flywheel.
I have zero hands on experience with LuK. That said, I hear very good things about them for oem style replacement. It's a good price for the kit. Just get a remote bleeder and at least a new slave cylinder TOB at the same time.
Double check that it comes with the flywheel. The ls7 is dished and our factory ones are not. The picture showed one but I did not check the item description......
Last edited by Proletariat designs; Jun 29, 2017 at 10:05 PM.
A lighter rotating mass (flywheel) means the engine will rev faster. Too light can be less friendly with a DD in stop and go because the lighter mass is not as good on starts.
A lighter rotating mass (flywheel) means the engine will rev faster. Too light can be less friendly with a DD in stop and go because the lighter mass is not as good on starts.
This exactly. In my 6.0 LS BMW the 18lb steel flywheel revved quickly but was uncomfortable to get going, you'd have to blip it a couple times to get the big heavy body off the line at a red light. Not launching it mind you, just regular driving. It was also annoying when shifting slowly through the gears because the revs would drop below the point appropriate for the next higher gear, so you'd have to give it a tiny blip if shifting slowly, bring the revs back up.
This exactly. In my 6.0 LS BMW the 18lb steel flywheel revved quickly but was uncomfortable to get going, you'd have to blip it a couple times to get the big heavy body off the line at a red light. Not launching it mind you, just regular driving. It was also annoying when shifting slowly through the gears because the revs would drop below the point appropriate for the next higher gear, so you'd have to give it a tiny blip if shifting slowly, bring the revs back up.
Having run 11 pound flywheels on my current C5 when stock as well as now with boost, and previously on a built TA, I can say that anyone claiming the lighter weight flywheels impacts or impedes daily driving is incorrect. No change in ease of driving, starting, or launching. But a huge difference in Rev matching shifts.
The only detail which stands as unproven and would vary by car/driver is the 60 foot dig. Common sense would suggest that more rotating mass revving prior to launch would equate to more force hitting the drive train and tires, but I have never seen real world comparison of an average of several launches before/after on a car with everything else being equal. Still... Maybe worth .1?no way of knowing.
what do you guys think of the Luk LS7? Correct me if im wrong but isn't LUK an OEM?
dont know if they are still oem but were for a lot of yrs. Nothing wrong with that brand at all. Some guys buy too much clutch and regret it later
Call Ron at TRC trans in Chatsworth he will get you right;builds a nice 6 spd too.
Wouldn't mind a lighter flywheel, but otherwise I love the kit
Sorry if threadjacking. Just wanting clarification.
What is that flywheel originally intended for? Says it won't fit my 97 vette? I've been trying to decide between the luk ls7 clutch and just a standard luk clutch. for everyone with the luk ls7 clutch, did ya'll have to do the air gap measurement? Did you guys get an adjustable master cylinder? Thanks.