What is "normal" operating temp for the A4 auto?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,747
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From: Hillsboro Oregon
What is "normal" operating temp for the A4 auto?
What is "normal" operating temp for the A4 auto in summer temps?
Just drove 1500 miles in my 03 with outside temps in the 80-94 degree F and noted that the DIC showed the A4 at 225-239.
Thanks in advance,
Jim
Just drove 1500 miles in my 03 with outside temps in the 80-94 degree F and noted that the DIC showed the A4 at 225-239.
Thanks in advance,
Jim
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 788
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From: Olathe Kansas
I would say that's high.. Mine usually runs around 180-200. I have a 180* thermostat..
When I had a 160* TStat it ran even lower - 175 ish on the highway (in lockup)
You prob need to give some TLC to your cooling system... Coolant, Clean debris from
radiator & condensor..
Also, the fluid & Filter in the Trans may be in need of changing too.
These cars came with Dex III from the factory, so your temps are
not great for this fluid. The newer Dex VI can take more heat and is compatible with
the older dex III.
When I had a 160* TStat it ran even lower - 175 ish on the highway (in lockup)
You prob need to give some TLC to your cooling system... Coolant, Clean debris from
radiator & condensor..
Also, the fluid & Filter in the Trans may be in need of changing too.
These cars came with Dex III from the factory, so your temps are
not great for this fluid. The newer Dex VI can take more heat and is compatible with
the older dex III.
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Out on the highway, the temp on my A4 equipped car is normally in the 185-200 range. As mentioned, check to see if your radiator area is a bit clogged up.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,747
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From: Hillsboro Oregon
32,000 miles
In the last month, I had the hoses, belts, thermostat (180), and coolant replaced as well as having the radiator pressure tested at a well-respected radiator shop with all GM parts.
I asked if they burped the cooling system to remove air and they assured me they did.
I had the trans fluid level checked by a GM dealer just after the above work.
I will recheck the radiator for blockage, but my water temps seem OK in hot weather and I personally cleaned the radiator and AC condenser just last year and at that time both were very clean. The fans seem to be working correctly.
So I am still puzzled.......................
In the last month, I had the hoses, belts, thermostat (180), and coolant replaced as well as having the radiator pressure tested at a well-respected radiator shop with all GM parts.
I asked if they burped the cooling system to remove air and they assured me they did.
I had the trans fluid level checked by a GM dealer just after the above work.
I will recheck the radiator for blockage, but my water temps seem OK in hot weather and I personally cleaned the radiator and AC condenser just last year and at that time both were very clean. The fans seem to be working correctly.
So I am still puzzled.......................
Last edited by jrprich; Jul 15, 2017 at 11:36 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,747
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From: Hillsboro Oregon
I did have an issue arise last week before the trip that I have been consulting with Bill Curlee about where first I got a
DTC B2795 Suspension Control Select Switch Circuit Malfunction code.
I had been working on some iPod wiring under the console and knicked a couple of wires. After checking all the wires running from under the dash to under the console and taping the two nicked wires the B2795 code went away but was replaced by:
C1284 Lateral Accelerometer Circuit
C1287 Steering Position Sensor Circuit
and the Traction control warning sign stays on in the dash cluster. All attempts to find the cause of this have been unsuccessful to date.
So perhaps this is what is causing the high trans temps???? The TC button still seems to function showing TC ON or OFF on the DIC.
Help would be greatly appreciated !!!!!!!
Last edited by jrprich; Jul 15, 2017 at 01:01 PM.
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Safety Car
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From: Da U.P.
Get rolling about 60 or so with it warmed up and give it a little gas. Not enough for it to downshift though. Do the RPMs flare up a couple hundred or does the car just grunt and accelerate slowly/moderately and then RPMs follow?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
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From: Hillsboro Oregon
Thanks,
Jim
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
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From: Hillsboro Oregon
I also noted trans temps from a cold start to the end of a 2-hour errand run which involved in town stop and go as well as freeway up to 60 mph.
Outside temps ranged from 70 -75 degrees.
10:50am: Cold start showed Trans temp at 81 after sitting in the garage all night.
11:00: Trans was 115
11:06: Trans was 162, coolant was 201
11:09: Trans was 172, coolant was 201
11:15: Trans was 180, coolant was 203
11:19: Trans was 187, coolant was 205
11:32: Trans was 199, coolant was 205
11:37: Trans was 201, coolant was 207
11:48: Trans was 205, coolant was 208
11:54: Trans was 212, coolant was 208
Comments and advice are most welcome,
Jim
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
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From: Hillsboro Oregon
Safety Car
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From: Da U.P.
Downshifting a gear will cause a spike in RPM regardless of the TCC being locked or not. Here's a more objective way than my first suggestion. While cruising along around 60mph use your left foot to depress the brake pedal enough for the brake lights to come on. This will cause the TCC to unlock. If nothing changes, then you're definitely not locking up. Stop and go will cook the trans because with the selector in D the TCC won't lock until 4th.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,747
Likes: 224
From: Hillsboro Oregon
Downshifting a gear will cause a spike in RPM regardless of the TCC being locked or not. Here's a more objective way than my first suggestion. While cruising along around 60mph use your left foot to depress the brake pedal enough for the brake lights to come on. This will cause the TCC to unlock. If nothing changes, then you're definitely not locking up. Stop and go will cook the trans because with the selector in D the TCC won't lock until 4th.
Will do,
What should or shouldn't happen when I use my left foot to depress the brake pedal enough for the brake lights to come on?
Jim
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,747
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From: Hillsboro Oregon
Safety Car
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From: Da U.P.
If the RPMs stayed constant then your TCC isn't locking at all. Common causes are a misfire, trans being winter cold, or a brake switch that never turns off. IIRC there are 2 circuits in the brake switch, how hard did you depress the brake pedal? When you start from a stop the car should sound like a 5 speed auto because it will upshift 2, 3, 4, then lock which can sound/feel like a shift in and of itself. Every 4L60 I've known will unlock in 4th before downshifting to 3rd and then 2nd when you approach an incline or start to lean on the gas after having been in a steady cruise state in 4th.
Last edited by Supercharged111; Jul 15, 2017 at 06:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,747
Likes: 224
From: Hillsboro Oregon
If the RPMs stayed constant then your TCC isn't locking at all. Common causes are a misfire, trans being winter cold, or a brake switch that never turns off. IIRC there are 2 circuits in the brake switch, how hard did you depress the brake pedal? When you start from a stop the car should sound like a 5 speed auto because it will upshift 2, 3, 4, then lock which can sound/feel like a shift in and of itself. Every 4L60 I've known will unlock in 4th before downshifting to 3rd and then 2nd when you approach an incline or start to lean on the gas after having been in a steady cruise state in 4th.
I just lightly depressed the brake pedal as you suggested. Not enough to feel the calipers grabbing the rotors. The engine does not seem to have a misfire and being too cold is out.
Would the brake switch be located by the pedal arm?
http://www.zip-corvette.com/97-04-br...al-switch.html
Is there no code set for a failing or stuck brake switch?
Just trying to eliminate possible causes before I install an auxiliary trans cooler.
Thanks again,
Jim
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 788
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From: Olathe Kansas
If you are not sure how to check for Torque Converter Clutch Engagement,
just take it to an independent transmission shop and have them test drive it..
IT's just a 4l60E, just moved back a bit !!
Your temps are too hot. Your coolant temps are normal , so I believe you have
a trans issue. Fix it before it causes more damage if possible
just take it to an independent transmission shop and have them test drive it..
IT's just a 4l60E, just moved back a bit !!
Your temps are too hot. Your coolant temps are normal , so I believe you have
a trans issue. Fix it before it causes more damage if possible