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Old Aug 11, 2017 | 08:48 PM
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Guys I have a 2000 C5 with a recently rebuilt 6.0L, 3.15 gears and a recently rebuilt 4l60E. When the trans was finished I installed an FTI 9.5 converter with 3200 stall. Everything shifts and operates properly (IE no weird noises, leaking fluids etc). My problem is high displayed trans fluid temp. I installed a trans cooler and had it routed through the radiator and was hitting 220 degrees. I routed it as a stand alone cooler and didn't see much of a difference, it hit the same top temperature, just took longer to get there. Do I piggy back 2 trans coolers? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim
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Old Aug 11, 2017 | 11:50 PM
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Yes, put a second cooler on it. Plus you didn't state where the cooler is mounted. Is it right against the radiator? If so, its getting heat soaked. I've fought this battle for a while as have others. I installed a Dewitt's shorty radiator (my LS3 is supercharged) and originally, my trans cooler was between the intercooler and radiator. Works fair unless stopped in traffic, then it starts to creep up and get hot. If I get in a quick hit on the car, temps jump to 220-225 as well, then cools off to maybe 210 (still too hot for my liking). Solution for me was to bypass the radiator completely, add a second cooler and relocate the first cooler. I do not need the brake cooling air tubes as I do not track my car and normal driving doesn't overheat the brakes. So I mounted each of the coolers in the front bumper where the brake air inlets can get to them. One on passenger side, one on drivers side. The extra tubing and extra cooler work great. Hardly ever see temps over 175.
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Old Aug 12, 2017 | 12:06 AM
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Cactus- The trans cooler is mounted to the condenser, passenger side of the car. Its not sandwiched between the condenser and the radiator, rather on top of the condenser, and its positioned so it should get good air flow. So, I figure I'll take a run to Summit Racing tomorrow and return some parts I don't need and install a second cooler. Thanks!
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Old Aug 12, 2017 | 01:00 AM
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HOT fluid route into trans at factory location..
The now cooled fluid that would normally go back to trans -- route it
to your aux cooler.. Then from aux cooler back to trans.
This way you get the best of both worlds AND if running in cool weather , you dont run
too cool.
This is the best way for a street car
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Old Aug 12, 2017 | 01:21 AM
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That's exactly how I was routed and it didn't keep it cool (and my radiator is WAY better at cooling than the stock unit). Every situation can be different.

Last edited by CactusCat; Aug 12, 2017 at 01:22 AM.
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Old Aug 15, 2017 | 08:27 AM
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Well I ended up ordering a 7 inch electric fan for my trans cooler. I figure I'll tap it into my electric fan that turns on first.
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Old Aug 15, 2017 | 02:54 PM
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Cool.. report back on how well or bad it works.. Thanks
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Old Aug 15, 2017 | 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ClevelandTim
Well I ended up ordering a 7 inch electric fan for my trans cooler. I figure I'll tap it into my electric fan that turns on first.
Which cooler did you install and which fan?
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Old Aug 16, 2017 | 01:43 PM
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-19127/overview/

&

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-12906/overview/
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Old Aug 16, 2017 | 03:27 PM
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When I installed my Yank 3200 converter, the DIC indicated trans hot light within 3 blocks. The smaller higher stall converters have much more slippage, thereby creates a lot more heat. I then installed a Hayden 678 cooler and the temps on a 100 degree day in traffic never goes above 175, average temps are about 165. Of course this is with a middle of the road plate and fin type cooler which is supposedly 33% more efficient than a tube and fin. I hope your solution works for you.
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