Eng temperature
Regretfully, I don't have the answer off the top of my head, but your temps sound ok.
The rest is just a collection of stuff I have learned here, you probably know the stuff, but I need spelling practice
I read these post to improve my understandings, not to memorize stuff I can look up., but If I am correct , your new radiator is running ok. Some people don't understand newer engines are designed differently, and want the new car gauges to look like the old days . So they change the easy stuff , a thermostat mostly , or if they need one, a radiator. And are not bashful to post how they really improved the design, but never offer a reason beyond observed temperatures in normal operation.
I recently read a very knowledgeable post here about thermal expansion considerations, the fuel curves and timing changes needed when changing engine temperatures away from the stock design, even going into Rpm effects. I got the impression the guy was a racer, as he made his points with ease and presented the reasons for his statements, getting his point across better than most engineers, with the same understandings.
Of course, if you don't have a stock engine, other systems have to follow. IF , like me, the car is stock enough to not need to re-engineer a major system you are ok, my new radiator runs well over 200 normally and triggers the fans correctly.
The lower temp when you got the car might just be some guy screwing around because they can. But sometimes supercharged cars require lowering the operating temps. It is not unusual to take off the bolt ons power adders before selling the car. A car like that might also have its smog system removed, and those parts are too expensive to replace for sale in a normal market. The fact that the old radiator ran cold might indicate missing power adders, but not always.
AS I said at the beginning, I am just repeating stuff, and never mean to mislead, but it should be checked.
Easy way....from a cold start, remove pressure cap, bring up to temp while adding coolant...to the top. Replace the cap. Repeat the above several times. Do not over fill the overflow tank.
There are several ways to burp the system. The above works for me.
There is no normal...mine runs at 170+ on the highway and up to 200 in traffic.
Last edited by runner140*; Sep 9, 2017 at 07:39 AM. Reason: add
If yours ran at 190 BEFORE the rad swap then I would make certain that the air is completely burped out of the system and that the coolant is at the proper level.
If you put in a better quality rad then it should not run hotter.















