When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I went for a drive after leaving my '97 on the tender for a couple of months.
After about five miles(at which time I dumped my waste paper)I got back in the seat(never stopped the motor)and headed home.
I noticed the oil pressure was all the way at three o'clock(80). I moved to the DIC and it read 130! No hard driving, just shifting at 2000 all the time.
On the way home I shifted higher(3000)and the needle never moved. I got home, killed the motor and the needle went back home. I started again and it went all the way to 80 again.
I just did mine this past weekend. I watched that video about 10 times.. they made it look easy. It was not.. but if you are persistent and don't give up easily you will get it done. Dealership wanted 400 bucks to do it and they were going to remove the intake. That just motivated me more. Main tools I used for the job was a coat hanger, 1 1/16 half in drive socket, extension, ratchet, a long skinny Phillips, some flux, and a flashlight.. also about 4 hours of my time which I am sure will takes days off the end of my life!
really it was not really that bad. I am pretty sure I could get it don't alot quicker next time, and I am sure there will be a next time.
It's not really all that hard to remove the inake manifold.
Plus you'll get the opportunity to clean stuff up a bunch..
No regular shop will do the "little things" like you would to your own car.
Good Luck
It's not really all that hard to remove the inake manifold.
Plus you'll get the opportunity to clean stuff up a bunch..
No regular shop will do the "little things" like you would to your own car.
Good Luck
Replaced mine twice in past 5yrs, and agree with Foggy on the cleaning. You would not believe how much dirt and crap under the Intake, and all the oil inside it. Would also add a catch can after cleaning it. Some were on the forum is an article on using/adding extension to the OPS. Use the CF search.
Replace your gaskets.
take you time, bag and tag all your parts and nut/bolts.
It's not really all that hard to remove the inake manifold.
Plus you'll get the opportunity to clean stuff up a bunch..
No regular shop will do the "little things" like you would to your own car.
Good Luck
LS intakes are stupid easy to remove. They're nothing like the the old gen 1/2 intakes with hidden bolt heads and water jackets. I can have my intake off in ~20 minutes. It would take anyone longer than that to cut a hole in the lower cowling considering first you have to remove the wipers and upper cowling if you want to go that route.
I'll show this to my tech. I got to tell you though, with his Vietnamese girly arms and hands he may just reach in and change it. He's very proud of this ability!
Although, I'm all for doing it the right way and cleaning it out.
We replaced OPS on a friends 2001 coupe. Watched that video of doing it without removing manifold or cutting cowl. I just don't see how that is possible. We cut the cowl.
I changed mine without removing or cutting anything. It ain't easy because you can't see what you are trying to do. Your hands and tools are in the way. I was a Vette mechanic so I already had the special socket. I put together my ratchet, 1/2 inch extension and a constant velocity impact universal joint into the socket. You work it down onto the OP sender after you get the plug off (to me the hardest part) and back the OP sender out. If it falls out of the socket you can use a magnet probe if the OP is steel to get it out of there.
I wrap electrical tape around the new OP sender to make it stay in the socket, some teflon tape to protect the threads and feed it back in to the hole. Only use finger pressure to start the threads, if it binds take it back out and try again. When the OP sender will go down several turns getting tighter with finger power it will stop. Then use the ratchet to tighten it. It may need a torque wrench, I didn't use one, I have installed hundreds of these things, I know what it should feel like. When it is tight, pull the tools out and TRY to get the electrical connector back on. I tape it to a long screw driver shaft at an angle, poke it at the op sender and use another long screw driver to seat the connector.
It took 3 beers and some bad words but it works fine. The former owner thought the high oil pressure reading was normal, he owned it for 17 years.