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Sway Bar Recommendation

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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 08:59 PM
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Default Sway Bar Recommendation

Looking for recommendation on the appropriate sway bar to use on my 04 C5.

The current setup is as follows:
  • Tires = 295/35/18 front and rear (Michelin Pilot Super Sports)
  • Springs = C5 Z06 front and rear
  • Shocks = DRM Valved Bilstein Shocks
  • Sway Bars = C5Base front (23mm) and rear (19.1mm)

I'm thinking C6 Z51 bars front (31mm) and rear (25.4mm), but with the 295s in the front, I have extra tire/grip capacity that most don't have. Would I be better with something bigger in the front (ex: C6 Pfadt Street which is 34.9 mm)?

Goals of the car are a really enjoyable canyon carver. Thanks.

Last edited by ChrisLSx; Nov 2, 2017 at 09:00 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 09:29 PM
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Are you running the same 10.5" width rear rims in the front as well?

You best bet is to start with the C5 Z06 bars.

'97-99 C5 Z51 25.4 mm front / 21.7 mm rear
'00-04 C5 Z51 28.6 mm front / 23.6 mm rear

C5 Z06: 30.0 mm front / 23.6 mm rear

C6 Z51: 31.0 mm front / 25.4 mm rear
C6 Z06: 31.0 mm front / 28.8 mm rear

The big question is do you need to then change the front and/or rear bars one size narrower or larger based on the square wheel/tire setup.

Last edited by JHrinsin; Nov 2, 2017 at 09:55 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by JHrinsin
Are you running the same 10.5" width rear rims in the front as well?
Yes
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 10:01 PM
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The C6 Z51 bars maybe even better especially at these prices;

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rformance.html
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 03:16 AM
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By the way I checked with a good friend of mine that has run C5's in several NASA classes with the square rim/tire setup and he says you really don't have to adjust the sway bars due to running the wider front rims/tires. He runs the T1 bars front and rear with the rear set on the softest setting.
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by JHrinsin
By the way I checked with a good friend of mine that has run C5's in several NASA classes with the square rim/tire setup and he says you really don't have to adjust the sway bars due to running the wider front rims/tires. He runs the T1 bars front and rear with the rear set on the softest setting.
Thanks for the info. If you wouldn't mind, please ask your friend why he has the rear set on soft.

What I read from your statement is that you friend did indeed adjust his sway bars due to running a square setup. With a square setup, the front has more grip (compared to what the bars were "designed" for). So if a person sets up their sway bars "normal" (stiff in the rear), they will oversteer. By your friend setting his rear bar to "soft setting", he's shifted the roll couple front.
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 2001CamaroGuy
Thanks for the info. If you wouldn't mind, please ask your friend why he has the rear set on soft.

What I read from your statement is that you friend did indeed adjust his sway bars due to running a square setup. With a square setup, the front has more grip (compared to what the bars were "designed" for). So if a person sets up their sway bars "normal" (stiff in the rear), they will oversteer. By your friend setting his rear bar to "soft setting", he's shifted the roll couple front.
It is most likely due to his personal preference, the equipment on his cars (especially the shocks), his specific driving style and/or the track he is running at. You are correct that having an adjustable rear bar allows you to fine tune the setup. The details might be best asked/found on the Autocross & Racing forum.

Last edited by JHrinsin; Nov 3, 2017 at 01:26 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 09:12 AM
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Here is my set up:

C6ZR1 front swaybar – 33mm
C6Z51 rear swaybar – 25.4mm
Adjustable end links front and rear (a must if you want to corner balance the car)

Same rear spring as you.
Rear Shocks are C6Z Bilsteins.
Front are 500lb coilovers (VBP 900lb Leaf was cracked and had to be replaced just before track event).

On the track with regular staggered tire set-up and Continental street tires the car would push when forced through turns. No oversteer unless I induced it. I attribute the push to lack of grip rather than the size of bar.

I have a square set-up for next season and expect that the "push" will go away for the most part with 295s or 305s on all 4s. That being said, and as you know, when grip in front increases, grip in rear can decrease so I suspect that the softening of the rear in the "friends" car had something to do with that issue.

I ran 295s square on my 944 turbo LS1 track car with a huge (for 944s) front sway bar and the thing stuck like crazy and was completely flat going through corners.

Now I am not comparing my C5 directly to the track car, but the theory is the same since the cars are similarly balanced.
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 06:23 PM
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Not to throw this off but I am looking to run coil overs with the JOC stage one bars. Is that overkill? Should I save the cash and get the C6 Z06 bars? they are just a touch smaller the the JOC
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jumpmanmb87
Not to throw this off but I am looking to run coil overs with the JOC stage one bars. Is that overkill? Should I save the cash and get the C6 Z06 bars? they are just a touch smaller the the JOC
What are your plans for the car?
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by marc a
What are your plans for the car?
spirited street driven only, but there are curvy roads I drive
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 11:18 PM
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IMHO save your money. My set up before the VBP front spring cracked was as planted as I could ask for a street car. In fact it handles much better than my 99 911.

If you use the C6Z06/Z51 bars and shocks together with the stiffer leaf springs the system will be tuned better because all you are doing is taking a C6 suspension and putting it on a C5.

I had a student last month with a C5Z, with the same sway bars and shocks that I had, and stock springs and he tore up the run group. I was really impressed seeing it from the right seat.

With the money you save get a set of Pilots and enjoy the ride.

Marc
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 01:06 AM
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difficult question, because it depends on your preferences. get an adjustable rear for sure. canyon carving? you will be going uphill applying throttle, right? you want a lot of understeer, especially if your square.

i myself am just changing from a strano adjustable, hollow front (33.5 mm) to a t1 front (38.3 mm) on stock wheels and tires and a stoch rear bar. have a blower though.

Last edited by romandian; Nov 5, 2017 at 01:07 AM.
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by romandian
difficult question, because it depends on your preferences. get an adjustable rear for sure. canyon carving? you will be going uphill applying throttle, right? you want a lot of understeer, especially if your square.

i myself am just changing from a strano adjustable, hollow front (33.5 mm) to a t1 front (38.3 mm) on stock wheels and tires and a stoch rear bar. have a blower though.
Yes, uphill with throttle. When you say lots of understeer, you mean static understeer correct? I wouldn't think a car that has excessive push under throttle would be very good.

Last edited by ChrisLSx; Nov 5, 2017 at 11:51 AM.
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 12:42 PM
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i will be able to tell you how the t1 bar works in about two weeks, because i was stupid enough to order just one bushing.
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 02:21 PM
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quick answer.... C6Z51 works very well. I ran 295's and now 305's and they are great. Obviously there are a lot of variables, but one of my best upgrades...
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