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on my 98 corvette the passenger headlight won't go up . you can manually screw it up and then it goes down electronically like it should. I pulled the wire connection with the 5 wires apart and checked it.. it looks great. this car is in great condition and has 37 k on it. what do you think? before i buy a motor at 250..Appreciate any input.
At any point since this problem began has your passenger headlight made any loud noise when opening or closing? If yes, it might be that the plastic gear in the motor is damaged.
If that is the case, get a kit like this one (pay attention because there are 2 different kits: one for "97 to early 2000" and another for "late 2000 to 2004") and follow these step-by-step directions. You'll save money and they will last forever
You might need these as well (the rubber bump stops).
There is a TSB, that calls for shimming the driver's side motor. The parts needed for this are included in the above mentioned kit.
Being able to manually raise the motor with the headlight off but it not raising when activating the switch is a strong sign of headlight gear damage. When the gear is excessively missing teeth it will have a difficult time engaging the worm gear as it spins super fast. There is not a physical stop for the worm gear, as the only thing that dictates full close or open position is the actual plastic insulators ("bumpers" on the headlight housing). When you then raise it by hand it's slow enough to just grab any residual remaining teeth.
Here's something you can do as a quick diagnosis. Go out and, with the headlights off, turn the headlight **** around a half dozen or so turns. Then go into the car and turn the headlights on. If it then raises up like it should then you know teeth on the gear are missing.
Changing the gear is very easy. You shouldn't have any reason to buy an entire motor unless there is physical crash damage or it burned out.
Being able to manually raise the motor with the headlight off but it not raising when activating the switch is a strong sign of headlight gear damage. When the gear is excessively missing teeth it will have a difficult time engaging the worm gear as it spins super fast. There is not a physical stop for the worm gear, as the only thing that dictates full close or open position is the actual plastic insulators ("bumpers" on the headlight housing). When you then raise it by hand it's slow enough to just grab any residual remaining teeth.
Here's something you can do as a quick diagnosis. Go out and, with the headlights off, turn the headlight **** around a half dozen or so turns. Then go into the car and turn the headlights on. If it then raises up like it should then you know teeth on the gear are missing.
Changing the gear is very easy. You shouldn't have any reason to buy an entire motor unless there is physical crash damage or it burned out.