Brake lines
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
Brake lines
I still have some energy left after doing my HB and now I want to do another Winter project.
I plan to remove all calipers and clean & paint them and also, I am planning to replace all four brake lines as they are probably 17 years old or better.
What are your thoughts about the stainless steel lines? I was originally thinking going with OEM AC Delco as my car is just for cursing/car shows and never tracking.
I know about the pros & cons of both after reading many posts & topics.
What is the members here doing when it comes to replacement? rubber or SS? and which brand would you recommend if you are doing SS?
I plan to remove all calipers and clean & paint them and also, I am planning to replace all four brake lines as they are probably 17 years old or better.
What are your thoughts about the stainless steel lines? I was originally thinking going with OEM AC Delco as my car is just for cursing/car shows and never tracking.
I know about the pros & cons of both after reading many posts & topics.
What is the members here doing when it comes to replacement? rubber or SS? and which brand would you recommend if you are doing SS?
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Sounds like a good idea to replace the flex lines especially if there is any indication of the rubber covers showing any signs of dryness or cracking.
Most people will say that the stainless lines will improve the "feel" of the pedal. Will you get better braking? Possibly, but new lines by themselves can improve braking performance.
I have used both Goodridge and Earl's lines and both brands have worked fine. I use them on both my '93 autocross car and my '02 coupe. So far they have been in place for at least 5 years.
With replacing the hoses, I would also recommend installing "Speed Bleeders" on the calipers. These bleeders have a spring-loaded checkball that allow you to do brake bleeding by yourself. With new hoses, you will need bleed all 4 wheels so these make it very easy to do.
At the same time you should do a complete flush and refill of the brake fluid. A good grade of DOT3 fluid will work fine for general street use. A good DOT3 fluid would be something like Castrol LMA, Valvoline Synthetic or even
the Ford Motorsports HD fluid. If you want a DOT4 fluid, look at the ATE TYP200 fluid.
Most people will say that the stainless lines will improve the "feel" of the pedal. Will you get better braking? Possibly, but new lines by themselves can improve braking performance.
I have used both Goodridge and Earl's lines and both brands have worked fine. I use them on both my '93 autocross car and my '02 coupe. So far they have been in place for at least 5 years.
With replacing the hoses, I would also recommend installing "Speed Bleeders" on the calipers. These bleeders have a spring-loaded checkball that allow you to do brake bleeding by yourself. With new hoses, you will need bleed all 4 wheels so these make it very easy to do.
At the same time you should do a complete flush and refill of the brake fluid. A good grade of DOT3 fluid will work fine for general street use. A good DOT3 fluid would be something like Castrol LMA, Valvoline Synthetic or even
the Ford Motorsports HD fluid. If you want a DOT4 fluid, look at the ATE TYP200 fluid.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 954
Likes: 21
From: White Oak, GA
If you're not going to drive on track, don't spend the extra money for steel lines. The stock lines are fine. Using a good fluid would be more important IMO.
If you don't shop at Rockauto.com, check out their prices. I probably have a current discount code if you can't find another one online.
If you don't shop at Rockauto.com, check out their prices. I probably have a current discount code if you can't find another one online.
Acct Suspended APR 2026 by request
Joined: Dec 2010
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
if you decide to go stainless and don't mind spending a little more money (around $150), Doug Rippie has some really nice lines... they are made by Goodridge and use -an fittings instead of banjo bolts
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
Thanks for your replys, I did a brake fluid change a few months after I purchased the car last May, the brake lines looked ok but I have an issue with 17 year rubber lines there and want them replaced.
I do shop Rockauto, in fact they have the best price on a set of 4 Power Stop Extreme rotors I like, just the shipping cost was a lot.
There is probably about a $30.00 difference in all 4 OEM vs Stainless steel.
I do shop Rockauto, in fact they have the best price on a set of 4 Power Stop Extreme rotors I like, just the shipping cost was a lot.
There is probably about a $30.00 difference in all 4 OEM vs Stainless steel.
Acct Suspended APR 2026 by request
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,367
Likes: 1,272
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
found a pic of my Doug Rippie lines before I installed them
Last edited by StingrayRebel; Apr 1, 2026 at 05:57 PM.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 382
Likes: 53
I second the comments on the DRM lines. They are the best IMHO because they eliminate the banjo bolt and use an fittings. You are also correct in wanting to replace your OE rubber lines. Mine had a little algae on them when I replaced mine.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
Ok, after a few weeks or so of going back & forth...
I just ordered the Doug Rippie set. For some reason it takes a long time to decide on what goes into my Vette
thanks for the help and will post a photo when they come in
I just ordered the Doug Rippie set. For some reason it takes a long time to decide on what goes into my Vette
thanks for the help and will post a photo when they come in
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,105
Likes: 114
From: Lawrenceburg, KY
Here's what I used ($100 from Summit):
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-692190
I personally don't see ever using OEM lines as the price difference is negligible in the long run.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-692190
I personally don't see ever using OEM lines as the price difference is negligible in the long run.
Last edited by ChrisLSx; Jan 8, 2018 at 04:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
Funniest thing and it always happens, a day after I ordered them or not even a whole day but like 5 hours.... someone in the parts 4 sale section here lists a brand new set for like half the price
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,105
Likes: 114
From: Lawrenceburg, KY
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
I installed these today, any of you guys have issues with brake fluid seeping slightly?
3 out of the four required me to loosen and reseat them to get it to fit where there was no weeping fluid on the threads. I finally got them done but it took a little patience, I didn't want to over tighten them.
I am leaving the wheels off for another day to make sure absolutely no fluid is weeping out.
3 out of the four required me to loosen and reseat them to get it to fit where there was no weeping fluid on the threads. I finally got them done but it took a little patience, I didn't want to over tighten them.
I am leaving the wheels off for another day to make sure absolutely no fluid is weeping out.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
I installed these today, any of you guys have issues with brake fluid seeping slightly?
3 out of the four required me to loosen and reseat them to get it to fit where there was no weeping fluid on the threads. I finally got them done but it took a little patience, I didn't want to over tighten them.
I am leaving the wheels off for another day to make sure absolutely no fluid is weeping out.
3 out of the four required me to loosen and reseat them to get it to fit where there was no weeping fluid on the threads. I finally got them done but it took a little patience, I didn't want to over tighten them.
I am leaving the wheels off for another day to make sure absolutely no fluid is weeping out.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,956
Likes: 135
From: Maryland
Which end?
My Goodridge (non-Rippie) seeped at the end that connects to the hard brake line. I called / complained to Goodridge and they provided some conical washers that fixed the problem. Don't know if they'll provide them for the Rippie setup.
My Goodridge (non-Rippie) seeped at the end that connects to the hard brake line. I called / complained to Goodridge and they provided some conical washers that fixed the problem. Don't know if they'll provide them for the Rippie setup.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
This was the side that fits to the hard line I did not add anything to the lines, I just pulled them apart and cleaned and reseat them.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
Yep, the same end, very slight weep, I purposely didn’t put my wheels back on so I could give it 24 hours after I bleed the brakes twice.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 382
Likes: 53
Make sure you have the copper washers between the caliper and the fitting. I made that mistake when I installed mine. Had to go back and redo it. They ship them with the copper washer above the nut, probably for shipping purposes so they don't get lost.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
Yes, copper washers were are on, it is the side that goes to the hard lines that was issue