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Occasional no start, security light while driving

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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 09:49 AM
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Default Occasional no start, security light while driving

Ever since I bought my car, it would occasionally refuse to activate the starter when I turned the key. Removing the key and trying again always worked, so I never really bothered to look into it.

Recently it's been lighting up the security light while I'm driving to work, so it's losing connection with the little pill on the key. I gave the pill a good cleaning last night. This morning it took about 5 tries to get it started, but the security light never came on.

I'm pretty sure my ignition cylinder is worn out. Replacement looks easy enough, and the part price isn't too obscene, but is there a way I can code it to my key myself? I'd rather not get the dealer involved.
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 10:26 AM
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[QUOTE=jrp1588;1596315578]I'm pretty sure my ignition cylinder is worn out. Replacement looks easy enough, and the part price isn't too obscene, but is there a way I can code it to my key myself? I'd rather not get the dealer involved.[/QUOTE]

Sorry I cannot help with that analysis but just maybe the issue is the key (the resistor), not the ignition cylinder. I had a similar issue about 2 years ago. Tried my spare key and all is good. I ordered another key to replace the bad one.

Last edited by Vetteman Jack; Jan 5, 2018 at 10:28 AM.
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 10:28 AM
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Moved to C5 Tech.
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 10:32 AM
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I forgot to mention that I can also pull the key out while the car is running without first turning the key to the off position. Pretty sure it's not supposed to do that, haha. Where do you even order keys, the dealer? Part of me just wants to bypass VATS entirely, but I do prefer to fix things correctly when it's not way more work.
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Vetteman Jack
Moved to C5 Tech.
I've never been clear on what goes where. For some reason I had it in my head that Tech was more engine related.
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jrp1588
I forgot to mention that I can also pull the key out while the car is running without first turning the key to the off position. Pretty sure it's not supposed to do that, haha. Where do you even order keys, the dealer? Part of me just wants to bypass VATS entirely, but I do prefer to fix things correctly when it's not way more work.
Attached is some info on key replacement. You can search on the 'net for C5 key replacement. Many independent key smiths have the blanks and will measure the resistor for you. Or you can measure and search the 'net for vendors selling the keys.
Attached Files
File Type: doc
Key replacement info.doc (876.5 KB, 47 views)
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 01:24 PM
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I really feel like the issue is more with the ignition cylinder since a good bump in the road seems to set the security light and allows me to pull the key out while the engine is running. It just seems like some slop has developed in it.

I wonder if a locksmith would be able to match a new cylinder to my key.
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 08:38 PM
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You will have to replace your key cylinder, I don't believe that most locksmiths will have car ignition cylinders, you most likely will have to purchase from GM or some aftermarket manufacture, and you will have to specify what key pallet resistance your current key is. Hope this helps.
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Old Jan 6, 2018 | 09:51 AM
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They're all over ebay. Finding a cylinder is no problem. Making it fit my key is the problem. I was wondering if a locksmith could "re-key" it. Also, are you sure the cylinder has to match the key resistance? I thought it just sent the value for the bcm to look at.
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Old Jan 6, 2018 | 11:00 AM
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Wonder how hard it would be to transfer the tumblers from the old cylinder to the new. If it's anything like a traditional door lock, that doesn't seem like something that would really wear out.
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Old Jan 9, 2018 | 10:26 AM
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So I remembered the previous owner gave me some spare keys. Comparing them to my main key, I can tell the contacts on key are quite worn down and rounded compared to the sharp squarish look of the spares. I never would have guessed metal would wear so much just from being put in and out of a key hole.

Anyway, I tried the spares, and couldn't get them to turn. The key grind doesn't match. The previous owner gave me the wrong spares, lol. He had 2 other c5's and a couple c6's, so easy enough mistake I suppose.

So I guess I'll try a new key first. I'll pick up a multimeter this weekend to check the resistance. Would the hardware store grind a key blank they didn't sell me? Alternatively, if I got lucky and one of the spares has a resistor that matches, can I press the pill out of there somehow and press it into my good key?
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Old Jan 9, 2018 | 01:25 PM
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I would take the advise that 8VETTE7 has offered, because your problem is not just worn keys, take the time and cost to completely correct the problem. My 2 cents
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Old Jan 9, 2018 | 01:43 PM
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Of course. I'm fully prepared to replace the cylinder if a new key doesn't help. Check how worn this thing is though. It's certainly not helping the situation.

Last edited by jrp1588; Jan 9, 2018 at 01:44 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2018 | 03:30 PM
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That's badly worn, and a new key may correct your problem, but you should not be able to remove key from ignition switch in the on position, if your new key can be removed while in the on position you will have to replace cylinder and tumblers. Regards Marty
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