XS Power Headers - AC line clearance
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
XS Power Headers - AC line clearance
I've been running into constant issues installing my gen3 XS Power headers. Before I ordered I read all the old threads. Some people had big issues, for others they went right in. I was really banking that the gen3 version had addressed the problems.
They were a pain to install. Ended up having to disconnect the motor mounts to lift the engine AND drop the front cradle significantly. And that was with a bare long block (no accessories on the motor).
On the driver's side, there isn't enough clearance to install the front O2 sensor with the headers attached to the block. Sensor hits the bell housing. Disconnecting the headers from the block isn't a big deal right now, but that's going to be a pain if I ever need to replace the O2 sensor one day. (I installed new ones)
I have 3/16" clearance on the steering shaft. Not a ton but will hopefully be sufficient. I'll keep an eye on it.
But here's my real issue:
The passenger side header hits the ac line. I tried bending the line a little but honestly there's nowhere to go with the line that doesn't hit the header. It's tucked up tight against the frame rail.
I've wrapped that section of the header with header wrap. For the ac line, on top of the factory heat insulation, I added some thermo-tec heat wrap. And not shown in the picture but I also wedged a thick piece of RaceFlux kevlar heat sheathing in between too.
The line isn't pinched. I can move it up/down. but there's no air gap, even if I removed all of the heat insulation it still touches.
I'm not 100% confident this is going to last. But going through all the work to get the header back out and then bang it with a hammer to dent the tube is a massive undertaking. (I've already got the ac compressor and starter installed because I wanted to check all the clearances).
Has anyone else with these headers had this issue?
If yes, how did you address it?
If no, can you post a pic? Maybe there's something different about my car or these headers.
Thanks.
They were a pain to install. Ended up having to disconnect the motor mounts to lift the engine AND drop the front cradle significantly. And that was with a bare long block (no accessories on the motor).
On the driver's side, there isn't enough clearance to install the front O2 sensor with the headers attached to the block. Sensor hits the bell housing. Disconnecting the headers from the block isn't a big deal right now, but that's going to be a pain if I ever need to replace the O2 sensor one day. (I installed new ones)
I have 3/16" clearance on the steering shaft. Not a ton but will hopefully be sufficient. I'll keep an eye on it.
But here's my real issue:
The passenger side header hits the ac line. I tried bending the line a little but honestly there's nowhere to go with the line that doesn't hit the header. It's tucked up tight against the frame rail.
I've wrapped that section of the header with header wrap. For the ac line, on top of the factory heat insulation, I added some thermo-tec heat wrap. And not shown in the picture but I also wedged a thick piece of RaceFlux kevlar heat sheathing in between too.
The line isn't pinched. I can move it up/down. but there's no air gap, even if I removed all of the heat insulation it still touches.
I'm not 100% confident this is going to last. But going through all the work to get the header back out and then bang it with a hammer to dent the tube is a massive undertaking. (I've already got the ac compressor and starter installed because I wanted to check all the clearances).
Has anyone else with these headers had this issue?
If yes, how did you address it?
If no, can you post a pic? Maybe there's something different about my car or these headers.
Thanks.
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
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Mine is close, but even with a couple of layers of heat wrap on the AC line the header tube doesn't touch the wrap. The AC line was away from the frame at first and did touch the header, but I bent the hard part of the AC line to get it up against the frame.
It would be much better if the line was Al instead of turning to rubber right there.
I would be concerned with contact. The heat wrap can only do so much.
It would be much better if the line was Al instead of turning to rubber right there.
I would be concerned with contact. The heat wrap can only do so much.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 01-19-2018 at 03:38 PM.
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Mine is close, but even with a couple of layers of heat wrap on the AC line the header tube doesn't touch the wrap. The AC line was away from the frame at first and did touch the header, but I bent the hard part of the AC line to get it up against the frame.
It would be much better if the line was Al instead of turning to rubber right there.
I would be concerned with contact. The heat wrap can only do so much.
It would be much better if the line was Al instead of turning to rubber right there.
I would be concerned with contact. The heat wrap can only do so much.
What year is your car?
#5
Melting Slicks
if its in contact it will burn thru unfortunately, wrap doesnt help, you probably know that, don't have that brand but had experience with Kooks that needed to bend the line so it didn't touch, only took a few miles too burn thru.
Last edited by feeder82; 01-19-2018 at 07:04 PM.
#6
Instructor
2000 M6 XS Power Gen 3 (I think - installed spring of 2017). I had to bend the AC line to move it towards the rear of the car and this provided a tiny (1/8"?) clearance to the header. Put on heat shield. So far it has survived, but I am not confident in the long term. On the drivers side there was contact with the steering shaft and had to bend the header tube for clearance. Also, the drivers side collector hit the oil pan wing. Overall fitment was poor.
#8
Drifting
It interfered on mine, 2000 FRC, no clue what revision headers but I bought them in Feb of 2016. It was "close" for a while and when I bumped the AC line during a recharge, it must have pushed it that last bit to get contact. I didn't find out that it burned through and leaked all the refrigerant out until I was in Washington DC on a road trip with my wife...in the middle of July, when it was 90F every day.
Moral of the story is, as much as you think it's a pain to "fix" now, it's much easier than having it fail on you on the road, and having no AC.
Moral of the story is, as much as you think it's a pain to "fix" now, it's much easier than having it fail on you on the road, and having no AC.
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
It interfered on mine, 2000 FRC, no clue what revision headers but I bought them in Feb of 2016. It was "close" for a while and when I bumped the AC line during a recharge, it must have pushed it that last bit to get contact. I didn't find out that it burned through and leaked all the refrigerant out until I was in Washington DC on a road trip with my wife...in the middle of July, when it was 90F every day.
Moral of the story is, as much as you think it's a pain to "fix" now, it's much easier than having it fail on you on the road, and having no AC.
Moral of the story is, as much as you think it's a pain to "fix" now, it's much easier than having it fail on you on the road, and having no AC.
#10
Drifting
The cost of a new line was something like $250...not to mention that it's one piece from the connection on the firewall, to the compressor, so the condenser. So, I removed the line, and had a custom fitting installed that replaced the burnt section of hose. I couldn't tell you what kind of fitting it is as I had a local hydraulic hose place repair it for me. I ended up bending the line in a way that kept it about 1/4" away from the header (did not dent the tube).
If I were to redo it, I would route the AC line up and over the headers (hugging the frame rail) and then have it drop straight down to meet the compressor. That will probably require some custom fab (TIG welding the Al Tube
Some searches will help you out, many others have had this issue
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...on-header.html
If I were to redo it, I would route the AC line up and over the headers (hugging the frame rail) and then have it drop straight down to meet the compressor. That will probably require some custom fab (TIG welding the Al Tube
Some searches will help you out, many others have had this issue
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...on-header.html