Some of the CF members have stroked their motors and i am a tad confused on one thing.

What is the reason for getting a iron block over an aluminum one?? Iron blocks i know can make more power. So is it the price difference.

I would think that all that weight up front with iron instead of aluminum would hinder handling, and performance, though i am aware that the extra cubes more than make up for the extra weight incurred.

thanx in advance for anyhelp u guys can give me. :)

 

One of the main reasons i will go to a ironblock stroker over a resleeved aluminum LS1 block is b/c many have suffered from drop sleeves in the aluminum blocks, leaking coolant and other major related headaches and frankly put, the ironblock is much more bulletproof (and about 1600.00 cheaper) than the resleeved aluminum block.

Not to mention that if you are going to spray or used other forced induction (turbo/supercharger) the bullet-proofness of the ironblock becomes the more logical/conservative choice. Don't forget thou that the aluminum resleeved LS1 blocks can be bored/stroked out to make 436cubes+ where the biggest you can safely bore out the ironblock is to 427 cubes with a .060 overbore and 4.125 lunati superstroker crank(=427 cubes). The ironblock is also 1500 to 2000.oo cheaper! There are many here who have great luck with their resleeved aluminum LS1 superstokers but more than a few have spent 17Kplus to have major problems/nightmares with the sleeves dropping and totally screwing up their brand new engine!:U I don't know about you, but that is certainly not something that i want to experience. For all those with aluminum block superstrokers, no flames intended, just my honest opinon!

Best of luck,

Nitrovette :cheers:

 

What Nitro said. My Iron block 389 has been in the car and running for 2 weeks now. All i can say is "UNREAL". This motor is VERY strong, VERY quick. I am very impressed. A great deal of this certainly has to do with the quality of the build: Shirl Dickey-built, internally balanced, all forged (built for nitrous) short block. So, i get to sleep better at night knowing that sleeves arent going to shift, that the block is strong and ridgid for the nitrous use. I was on an extreme budget, too. if i had the extra $3-4k, i could have had Shirl stroke it even more. Motor is 4.08" bore x 3.72" stroke.
I cannot tell the difference in handling and, like Nitro said, the extra power easy overcomes the extra weight in acceleration. I cannot tell that i am carrying an extra 80lbs in motor + 100lbs in roll cage and nitrous stuff in back. I will be finishing my WOT dyno tuning this next coming week. my prelim #'s (shutting down at 5k rpm, only 300miles on motor, rudimetary tuning) was 430-ish rwhp, 450-ish rwtq!! more to come....

 

What we looking at in price for a base Iron block??????????? ;) :D :blueangel:

 

Shirl Dickey built my all forged, big bore/stroke short block for ~$4K. all internally balanced and printed, block seasoned/squared/align bored, etc. Warranty, too. I did provide him with a cam that i had custom made + the double roller timing set (i got from Australia for $58 US!!) to install into the motor. I believe he quoted me another $3-4K for the BIG forged stroker crank setup (4.00-4.100" forged crank kit) of which i did not have at the time. I wish i had it. But i am very, very happy with this motor for sure.