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i have a question, i have been having problems with my clutch pedal sticking to the floor. so i have decided it's probably time for a new clutch, my wife is awesome and she bought me a new stock C5Z clutch for the replacement. i also bought a new clutch master cylinder and a tick remote speed bleeder. i was in touch with a local shop that i trust, and they just sent me the quote last night via email , over $2100Cdn!(that does include the match balancing) whoa! that seems a bit high to me, especially since we are supplying the parts... what do you folks think?
I'm not sure how the $$ converts between US and CAN so I can't comment too much there. But I will say that it is a big labor intensive job, so it is more expensive that on many other vehicles.
Also be sure to replace the clutch slave cylinder.
Is your car stock? Many people seem to develop clutch problems when they've added extra power (cam, headers, etc). If you've added more power (or paln to in the future) it might be worth upgrading to an aftermarket clutch. Monster stage 2 for example.
I'm not sure how the $$ converts between US and CAN so I can't comment too much there. But I will say that it is a big labor intensive job, so it is more expensive that on many other vehicles.
Also be sure to replace the clutch slave cylinder.
Is your car stock? Many people seem to develop clutch problems when they've added extra power (cam, headers, etc). If you've added more power (or paln to in the future) it might be worth upgrading to an aftermarket clutch. Monster stage 2 for example.
i was at first gonna tackle this myself, but i just don't have the time or maybe the skill either, cause it is such a big job. i'm ok at small jobs like routine maintenance and such but i think this is out of my scope. and yes my clutch kit came with a new slave, throwout bearing and pilot bearing. my car is totally stock, may entertain some bolt ons in the future though.
Did you try bleeding the fluid? It's common for the old fluid to cause the pedal to stick. Suck out the old fluid from the clutch reservoir with a turkey baster (don't get any fluid on your paint!). Re-fill with new fluid (I think it needs brake fluid, but be sure to check first). Press and release the clutch pedal about 30 times. Repeat about 5 or 6 times.
This happened to me and I got this info here. I now do this every few months or so.
Did you try bleeding the fluid? It's common for the old fluid to cause the pedal to stick. Suck out the old fluid from the clutch reservoir with a turkey baster (don't get any fluid on your paint!). Re-fill with new fluid (I think it needs brake fluid, but be sure to check first). Press and release the clutch pedal about 30 times. Repeat about 5 or 6 times.
This happened to me and I got this info here. I now do this every few months or so.
I have 80,000 miles on my C5.
yes i have done the "ranger" method of clutch fluid replacement, it did seem to make things better, but after a while the pedal still stuck to the floor and the fluid is crystal clear. so even though my car has only 60,000 miles on it, the previous owner did lots of city driving which probably contributed to the slave and master cylinders premature wear, just a guess.
If you're going to add some mods later and don't want to spend the bucks replacing the clutch again later, I suggest buying the LS7 clutch kit for C5. It only comes with the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel, so you still need the other parts you've already bought, but it's designed to stand up to 500 hp with OEM reliability. It's $500 from Scoggin Dickey. https://sdparts.com/i-23179965-sdpc-...-flywheel.html
If you're going to add some mods later and don't want to spend the bucks replacing the clutch again later, I suggest buying the LS7 clutch kit for C5. It only comes with the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel, so you still need the other parts you've already bought, but it's designed to stand up to 500 hp with OEM reliability. It's $500 from Scoggin Dickey. https://sdparts.com/i-23179965-sdpc-...-flywheel.html
you know i did think about that, but i noticed that the LS7 clutch is much heavier and i didn't want to change how the engine responds to throttle with the increased inertia, plus i already have the LS6 clutch so I'm just gonna use this for now. maybe down the road i can upgrade to a really nice clutch unit, but i haven't driven my car for quite some time, and i just wanna get er done! spring is coming and i have some plans for driving the wheels of this thing
as others have said, that seems like a fair price. Just did what you did and bought my own parts (I really didn't want to spend time on my back since its cold in the shop this time of year-and I wanted to actually see my wife and kids over Christmas vacation and not be out in the shop). Had a local corvette shop do the pilot bearing, clutch, PP, flywheel, slave, master cylinder, clean off the splines and replace all the rear end seals (much easier to do since it was all out) and put tick bleeder in. ran me 2K (and that was with me bringing in all the parts). I thought it was a little high-however I think they did quality work as they have only 2 mechanics and 80% of their work is on vettes, so they knew what they were doing. Good luck!
" It's $500 from Scoggin Dickey. https://sdparts.com/i-23179965-sdpc-...-flywheel.html"
Not to sidetrack too far, but how do you find that kind of thing? I search SDPC and come up with a generic 'Hayes' clutch...
as others have said, that seems like a fair price. Just did what you did and bought my own parts (I really didn't want to spend time on my back since its cold in the shop this time of year-and I wanted to actually see my wife and kids over Christmas vacation and not be out in the shop). Had a local corvette shop do the pilot bearing, clutch, PP, flywheel, slave, master cylinder, clean off the splines and replace all the rear end seals (much easier to do since it was all out) and put tick bleeder in. ran me 2K (and that was with me bringing in all the parts). I thought it was a little high-however I think they did quality work as they have only 2 mechanics and 80% of their work is on vettes, so they knew what they were doing. Good luck!
i hear ya! we are busy people too, i wish i had the time to try myself but it's just not there, plus i also try to spend as much time with my wife and family as i can when I'm not at work, you never know.
" It's $500 from Scoggin Dickey. https://sdparts.com/i-23179965-sdpc-...-flywheel.html"
Not to sidetrack too far, but how do you find that kind of thing? I search SDPC and come up with a generic 'Hayes' clutch...
i have seen it listed before on the forum somewhere, i think it was in the for sale section, Scoggin Dickey may be a vendor? please someone correct me if i am wrong. (happens)
" It's $500 from Scoggin Dickey. https://sdparts.com/i-23179965-sdpc-...-flywheel.html"
Not to sidetrack too far, but how do you find that kind of thing? I search SDPC and come up with a generic 'Hayes' clutch...
I know, right? I found it on Google searching for C5 LS7 clutch. Took me right to the web page. But if you try searching on Scoggin Dickey's site, nada. Go figure.
just wanted to share this about my clutch job, i ended up taking it to a local shop that gets really good reviews. things ended up great! fantastic workmanship, the owner and lead tech took the time to explain things to me and listened to my concerns, and when they got it all apart they found some more issues with the torque tube and of course the rear axle seals! (i know shocker ). so now i have a new clutch, every part of the hydraulic system is new, remote speed bleader, all new bearings including throwout, pilot and torque tube plus new axle seals! everything is as good as new with zero vibration, very happy! was a little more expensive of course cause i needed alot more work but i'm good for a long time now! i hope anyways oh as a side note, the owner showed me all the defective parts after removal so i could see for myself and i kept the old pressure plate and flywheel for balancing reasons for down the road if i ever need a new clutch. (hopefully never )