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torque tube install

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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 11:06 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by bigmackloud
Ironically I already had the TT separated from the transmission because I had it apart to inspect the couplers, etc. Could have just left it apart and installed it in pieces.
Originally Posted by SaberD
another suggestion I've heard is that you can use an old input shaft instead of the plastic tool if you have some vette buddies or a shop nearby that's willing to lend you one. FTR mine worked just fine with the plastic tool.
If you have separated the torque tube and taken it apart, then you can use the input shaft to install the clutch and then install the torque tube by itself first.
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 10:14 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Too late now, but this is how I did mine. I took measurements prior to complete removal so reinstallation by myself was actually quite easy. It literally went in by using one hand after I rotated the input shaft to align the splines.

Torque Tube Alignment Method
I saw this after the fact... next time
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 10:18 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
If you have separated the torque tube and taken it apart, then you can use the input shaft to install the clutch and then install the torque tube by itself first.
that the "new" plan... should be much easier to move around the torque tube by it's self, that should tell me if the disc is aligned. I hate to loosen the pp bolts if I don't have to. (torqued 3 times star pattern red Loctite)

Thanks for the help!
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Old Feb 22, 2018 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wrench
Just a thought: the 2000 model was infamous for some of the manual tranny units having external balance weights driven into holes in the flywheel. REf: field service manual page 6-158.
IF THE LEAD WEIGHT IS NOT REMOVED AND TRANSFERRED TO THE EXACT SAME LOCATION ON THE NEW FLYWHEEL (CLOCKED TO THE SAME MOUNTING POSITION ON THE CRANK) THE ENGINE WILL VIBRATE YOUR TEETH OUT AT 4000 RPM.

Happened to me: absolute nightmare!!!!!!!!!

Not all the engines required this external balance weight, but if yours does, it can be Hell to correct.

I highly suggest you examine your old flywheel for any suspicious 1-2 oz lead weights driven into holes on the FW before spending all the time to reassemble the car.

Lots of info on the forum about this.

Good luck
DG
Thank you!

I've read about the "hot balancing" on some c5s. What a crappy way to do something to "some" cars without marking them or something for the guy changing the clutch... I spoke to Monster and they said they have seen 3 in 8 yrs, but it would suck to be one of the three.. thanks again
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Old Feb 23, 2018 | 09:09 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by I1ABAZO6
Thank you!

I've read about the "hot balancing" on some c5s. What a crappy way to do something to "some" cars without marking them or something for the guy changing the clutch... I spoke to Monster and they said they have seen 3 in 8 yrs, but it would suck to be one of the three.. thanks again
I actually took my flywheel to two different shops both of which did not match the flywheel balance properly. One of them was even dynotech engineering who produced the test stands on the LS1 production line to perform the hot balancing. Eventually I took it to a place called Raven Engineering, and they FINALLY got it right. 3rd time's a charm jeeze. Wasn't very happy to have to do the job 3 times, but at least I've gotten pretty good at it.
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Old Feb 26, 2018 | 10:18 PM
  #26  
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I separated the torque tube from the trans/rear end as suggested. That made it much easier (on your back) to move around the TT and line it up with the clutch. It went right in... then we were able to connect the trans back together. Big relief....

Thanks again for everyone's help......
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