Okay so I was having an issue where my car would start and instantly stall out. Had to get the car towed home. Had a code for slow O2 response on bank 1. Lifted it up and saw burnt O2 sensor wires were burnt on the headers. Disconnected the O2's and the car ran fine. So this weekend I replaced the O2 sensors. Gave it a couple quick test drives and it seemed to run fine. Well this morning on the way into work the CEL came on, I scanned it and showed codes for slow response on both banks now. Cleared the codes and drove on with out issue. Then I was driving home and it stalled out on me in sixth gear. Pulled over and was having the same issue as before. Couldn't keep the car running. It would fire and instantly die or run at some rediculously low rpm. So I pulled the O2 fuse and drove home no issues. Could I have gotten bad O2 sensors? They were ac delco. Also used exhaust heat tape on the new wires to keep them from getting burnt. Anyone have any ideas? Maybe an idle relearn?

 

Moved to C5 Tech.

 

I just had the same problem with mine except it would drive but it was sputtering and misfiring and struggling to go over 1500 RPM's. I checked my codes and it said both O2 sensors were shot (P1134,1154 1133 1153). I ran my hptuner and it showed they were super lazy, they would not go over 500mv when cycling and they would drop to 100mv. I replaced both with new ones and now it runs again like a champ. Make sure you are not using el cheapo sensors and make sure you tie them up real nice and not crimp the wires.

These were the nippen denso sensors. I got a good deal on them and now know why. They didnt last 5K miles. I went to Bosch this time and they are cycling the right way now

 

Yeah I used AC delco thinking they would be good quality, but they worked for about a day before dying on me. Had to pull the fuse for the O2's to get it to run. Noob question, but what should the mV be at? I only have the front O2's and the rears are tuned out because I have long tubes and catless x.

 

If you have a scanner or HPtuner, you have to check it in closed loop as open they will be at a constant voltage until they heat up, what you are looking for is them to "cycle" from I believe 200mv up to 800mv each side should be in reverse of each other i.e one side goes up the other goes down. What I had to was use the rear o2's up front and get the connectors since I have longtubes and using the front ones kept causing the heating error in the cel. Once I swapped over I no longer received the heating issues.

 

I was gonna do run the rears up front, but I talked to my friend who owns a shop specializing in LS cars and he said it wasn't worth it on a mostly stock car. I'll have to check the voltages when I get home.

 

[QUOTE=Zsl0w6;1596868677]I was gonna do run the rears up front, but I talked to my friend who owns a shop specializing in LS cars and he said it wasn't worth it on a mostly stock car. I'll have to check the voltages when I get home.[/QUOTE

When I did have the fronts, and drove, I would go into the DIC and it would show the heating error all the time even with brand new o2's. I tuned out the check engine light but still wanted to see the error. So I swapped to rears and problem was resolved. Not to say your friend is wrong, but if you check out the forum more you will see a lot of people had to do the same thing. It worked in my case and many others.

 

[QUOTE=midnight01;1596868721]I never saw I code for the heating, but it showed as not ready on the monitors. The codes I had were slow response. First it was on bank 1, but after I replaced the O2's and extensions I had it on both banks. So maybe an issue with the extensions or O2's.

 

[QUOTE=Zsl0w6;1596869146]That was the codes I got too until I swapped to rear o2's in the front.
I got slow response and also the heating issue.

After you put in the new oxygen sensors perform a diag to make sure they work properly.

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html

 

[QUOTE=midnight01;1596869781]Looks like I'll be spending even more then. Sucks that I just bought these. I might try to get them warrantied and see if maybe the sensors were bad before I go that route