Seat track question
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,302
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
Seat track question
I just finished installing the Teflon inserts, into the pillow blocks that the fore/aft seat adjustment rods run through. I also installed the aftermarket, metal clevises and HD metal "pivot blocks", for the tip/tilt adjustments.
I put everything back together, and tried it out. The tip/tilt work just fine, but the seat won't move fore/aft.
I took the seat itself, back off the track assembly, and set the track back in the car, and plugged the power back in. When I actuate the switch, I can see the motor try to rotate the shafts that go between the motor itself, and the 90* "transmissions" that make the shafts rotate, which then moves the seat. However, it appears that they just "stall".
I'm fairly sure that these shafts rotated pretty freely, before I re-assembled everything, and I'm pretty sure that I got the shafts pretty much in the same orientation that they originally were. The fact that the motor actuates, I think is telling me that the motor is getting power.
Is there some sort of "limit switch" in the track assembly, that could be telling the motor not to turn?
I put everything back together, and tried it out. The tip/tilt work just fine, but the seat won't move fore/aft.
I took the seat itself, back off the track assembly, and set the track back in the car, and plugged the power back in. When I actuate the switch, I can see the motor try to rotate the shafts that go between the motor itself, and the 90* "transmissions" that make the shafts rotate, which then moves the seat. However, it appears that they just "stall".
I'm fairly sure that these shafts rotated pretty freely, before I re-assembled everything, and I'm pretty sure that I got the shafts pretty much in the same orientation that they originally were. The fact that the motor actuates, I think is telling me that the motor is getting power.
Is there some sort of "limit switch" in the track assembly, that could be telling the motor not to turn?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 944
Likes: 11
From: Davie Florida
I just did mine as well , pass and driver side,
When you took the rods out of the rails did you mark the rods/ sliders of there position.. They have to go back in the exact position you took them out, It sounds like you may have miss aligned the sliders... I'm not sure but that's my opinion.. Wait and see what others say..
Ant...
When you took the rods out of the rails did you mark the rods/ sliders of there position.. They have to go back in the exact position you took them out, It sounds like you may have miss aligned the sliders... I'm not sure but that's my opinion.. Wait and see what others say..
Ant...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,414
Likes: 25
From: Texas
Did you rebuild the rods one at a time? On each seat one rod is right hand thread, the other is left hand thread. The rods have to go back where they came from. Also the rods should be reinstalled in the same seat position... i just did both of my seats today. The rubber inserts were trash. The nylon washers were very easy to install...
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,302
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
I'm installing the "upgrade kit" from C&S, so I had to do a little more disassembly that just removing the rod assembly, in order to install the upgraded pivot support blocks. What's most frustrating for me, is that I did just the nylon insert upgrade about 4-5 years ago, and had very little trouble doing the job.....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 944
Likes: 11
From: Davie Florida
When I removed the rod assembly from the track, I used a dial caliper to note the position of the "aluminum block" on the rod, and returned them to the same spot. While I did remove both at the same time, I put them to the corresponding side of the seat frame, and didn't move the frame around.
I'm installing the "upgrade kit" from C&S, so I had to do a little more disassembly that just removing the rod assembly, in order to install the upgraded pivot support blocks. What's most frustrating for me, is that I did just the nylon insert upgrade about 4-5 years ago, and had very little trouble doing the job.....
I'm installing the "upgrade kit" from C&S, so I had to do a little more disassembly that just removing the rod assembly, in order to install the upgraded pivot support blocks. What's most frustrating for me, is that I did just the nylon insert upgrade about 4-5 years ago, and had very little trouble doing the job.....
This was my first time doing this job, Never been in a set of seats like I did on these, But I learned a lot about my seats.... My biggest fear when doing them was the problem you are having.. The fact that you say the motor is trying to turn points me in the direction that some how you got miss aligned somewhere with the sliders.. If it was me I would pull it apart again and double check it all...
Ant...
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
I would first take out the bolts holding the block onto the track and see what happens you try to move it. If the blocks move that might give you some idea of what is going on. That would also let you confirm you can move the track back and forth. If nothing happens then just keep going until you find why it's binding.
Once you unbolt the seat then the seat side of the track aren't tied to each other so even if you had them uneven side to side they should be able to travel.
If you swap the screw rods then the seat just goes the wrong direction. BTDT. You'd have to put one of them in swapped end for end but I recall both ends of the rod as not being the same making that impossible.
Once you unbolt the seat then the seat side of the track aren't tied to each other so even if you had them uneven side to side they should be able to travel.
If you swap the screw rods then the seat just goes the wrong direction. BTDT. You'd have to put one of them in swapped end for end but I recall both ends of the rod as not being the same making that impossible.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,302
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
This was my first time doing this job, Never been in a set of seats like I did on these, But I learned a lot about my seats.... My biggest fear when doing them was the problem you are having.. The fact that you say the motor is trying to turn points me in the direction that some how you got miss aligned somewhere with the sliders.. If it was me I would pull it apart again and double check it all...
Ant...
Ant...
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 944
Likes: 11
From: Davie Florida
I did that yesterday, and this time, I reassembled the "pillow blocks" using feeler stock, to make sure I got the threaded insert perfectly centered. I also installed the seat tracks back in the car, without the seat attached to it, so I could see what was happening, before I put it all back together. This time it worked, so apparently something was out of alignment, but not by all that much.....
Hehe, At least you got it...
When I did mine I first putt the track in the car without the seat attached to make sure it worked, But when I did that I moved the track in all directions not thinking that I still had to attach the seat.. So when I pulled the track back out and tried to mount the seat to it, It was all out of wack so I had to put the track back in the car put the seat in and get it all lined up then pull it back out and bolt it all together.. But I can now repair pretty much anything in the seats..
Good Job Bud,
Ant...
Last edited by ant-knee470; Apr 1, 2018 at 09:56 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 944
Likes: 11
From: Davie Florida
Wonder How much $$$ we have saved ourselves doing this job..
Here's what I did to mine.
New seat foams 250.00
Bought a used set of leather covers - 300.00
Rebuilt tracks ( Sliders ) - 8.00
Had to cut off electric connectors from car to seat, They were not in good shape and made poor connection.. Bought new connecters soldered them in and every seat function works now...$ 25.00
So it cost me about $600.00 and My seats are like new now...
Bet you it would have cost me $1000.00 to $1500.00 to have this done elsewhere maybe even more.....
Ant...
Here's what I did to mine.
New seat foams 250.00
Bought a used set of leather covers - 300.00
Rebuilt tracks ( Sliders ) - 8.00
Had to cut off electric connectors from car to seat, They were not in good shape and made poor connection.. Bought new connecters soldered them in and every seat function works now...$ 25.00
So it cost me about $600.00 and My seats are like new now...
Bet you it would have cost me $1000.00 to $1500.00 to have this done elsewhere maybe even more.....
Ant...
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,364
Likes: 471
From: S.E. Pennsylvania
I had new tires and TPM sensors installed recently. I though that maybe I should get the seats done to fix the rocking while the car was in for service. They wanted $496.00 per seat for parts and labor. I didn't get the seats done...
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,302
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY