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I am installing a thicker tunnel plate on my 99 auto C5. The question on the table is that should I order a thermal shield for the tunnel plate for $120 of make my own shield with Dynamat material
My plate said E2 on it with no thermal shield. I was wondering is it worth $120 to add the TPS Motorsports thermal shield on it or make my own shield with insulation materials. I heard it will reduce the heat to the center console and reduces drone
I think your best bet is to wrap your exhaust and put better insulation inside the car. I have the 1/4" tunnel plate with the thermal coating and it does not make much difference. After long drives in the summer I still feel like a baked potato.
I picked up the pre cut insulation kit from vettnuts and plan to install that along with wrapping the x-pipe for now (headers will have to wait). I am hoping that these two items will help keep the interior heat levels down.
Lg has what looks the same, they are not cheap but they work, I also have a layer of sound deadener inside the car that I added a couple of years after the tunnel blanket that has a foil covering & has also helped.
Last edited by 6speedsteve; Apr 5, 2018 at 06:38 PM.
I went to the junkyard and found a bunch of cars with their engines out that had nice heat shields. Some Fords have a material that is easy to bend and even tears in their tunnels. Some BMW have a thinner, stiffer materials. I also found a ton of "insulation" that carpet-like stuff that tears into tiny fibers.
I brought at least 30lbs of it various sizes and shapes to the counter and the lady was like "what the F@(#* is all that" and charged me $10
I test fit each piece(s) in the tunnel until I found some nice matches, then installed rivnuts so I could bolt it in place.
I went to the junkyard and found a bunch of cars with their engines out that had nice heat shields. Some Fords have a material that is easy to bend and even tears in their tunnels. Some BMW have a thinner, stiffer materials. I also found a ton of "insulation" that carpet-like stuff that tears into tiny fibers.
I brought at least 30lbs of it various sizes and shapes to the counter and the lady was like "what the F@(#* is all that" and charged me $10
I test fit each piece(s) in the tunnel until I found some nice matches, then installed rivnuts so I could bolt it in place.
Did you instal it on top of the plate( between the tunnel and plate)? Wouldn't water collect there?
You have to consider the tunnel first. Then, any added materials pre-existing, whether or not you are leaving them. The insulation type materials go deepest, or first, as close to the actual interior as possible. And you might even add a bit to the interior as well on the other side of the tunnel in fact.
From there, after the insulation, you would want a reflective type material with airspace between the trans and itself. the air serves as a fair insulator and the reflective materials keeps the IR off the tunnel insulation. If in your application there is a preexisting plate, it's material and construction may play a role. I.e. if it were reflective vs insulative it could act in conjunction with either type. Most insulating materials from junkyard cars already have a highly reflective surface and are quite water resistant in my experience. The one from Ford particularly, very light weight, can tear it by hand if you really want to, but its the sort of material that does not initially tear easily if you get what Im saying. I used it near the ground to prevent splashing up in some places, as between the oil pan and road for example.