I'll be doing some real mods soon (3.42, SY3500, Transgo, B&M cooler, LS1 edit) and have thought about adding an aftermarket Cam to the mix.

I know I would see better results with heads upgrade, simply can't afford it at this time along with all the other mods to be performed. I can afford to add the Cam, and think this would certainly add a nice little increase :D

I have an A4, and need assistance with choosing a streetable cam.

Thinking about the following:

TR 224/224 .561/.561 114 LSA
TR 220/220 .553/.553 114 LSA
Comp Cam 216/220 .525 / .532 114 LSA

Which would be best for my setup?? :confused:

Appreciate the assistance as always.
:cheers:

 

220/220 :yesnod:

vetterdstr :cheers:

 

With the SY3500, tuning and if emissions aren’t a concern, you should be able to handle the 224/224. But make no mistake about it; you’ll need a good tune to be streetable. If emissions are a concern you’ll have better luck with the 220/220 and the 216/220 should be a shoe-in.

I think the bottom line is that with the SY3500 and proper tuning any of them would be very streetable based on reports that I’ve heard but the more aggressive you get the harder it will be to pass emissions.

 

I am running a similar CC custom cam with the Crane 1.8 rockers. I made 360/345 without headers and no tuning.I am very happy with what that cam did for me.

I havent dynoed with the headers or the Stingers on there yet.Those numbers will soon be coming. :cheers:

I know I did make more power than a guy with the tr224 here in town.

 

I was thinking of doing the same thing. I was also looking at the TR cams, but I also thought about a comp cams custom that is .581" lift/222°duration/114lsa. I chose this because of the higher lift, and the duration was right in between the TR's. The worst part is that it is an X-ER grind (faster ramps), and is a little bit harder on springs. Sometimes, sacrifices must be made.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I was hoping I wouldn't have emmissions issues with the 224/224. May be safe and look more at the 220/220.

Any idea on how much of a rwhp increase I would see with this came and my stock heads?
:cheers:

 

Key things to look for where emissions are a concern is when the intake closes in relation to a stock cam. The closer it is to stock the better off you'll be. Also the more overlap the cam has the harder it will be on emissions. More lift doesn't hurt the emissions if everything else is ok.

For this info you will need to know more than just the duration, lift and LSA. You will want to compare when the valves open and close and how much overlap they have.

 

If you're not stuck on Thunder Racing Cams i'd recomend MTI's B1 cam (22/221 .558/.558 114). There are few A4's on the forum running it with stock heads and and programming(mainly idle adjust). Also there are a few MN6's running MTI's T1 Cam (221/221 .558/.558 112) with stock heads an "NO" programming.

Not to mention they're just down the road (I-10) from ya. :cheers:

 

Redgar has a stock head LS1 with a custom grind that makes some GREAT power! :cheers:

 

Sven, keep in mind that if you go with a high lift cam, you will need aftermarket springs. The stock springs will not hold up and will float the valves under such demanding use.

 

Anyone have a link to where I can see a list of current Compcams cams?

 

Yeah, I figured I would need new Valve Springs, Titanium Retainers,
new Pushrods, and Cam Swap Gasket Kit.

Since Speed Demon with be doing my installs, I guess I'll ask them what they recommend. Appreciate all the advice.
:cheers:

 

MTI T1 cam, all the way........

 

:cheers:

 

For an auto, go with a B1 cam with 114LSA. I made 375rwhp in my M6 with the B1 w/ no tuning. Not bad considering how driveable it is...

 

I got 25rwhp from MTI's B-1 cam, and their Stg.II heads gave another 25rwhp. My advice is to call tuners who you're willing to deal with, tell them what you're looking for and let them advise you. Remember, the biggest difference in tuners, assuming they do quality work, is their philosophy on how to achieve performance. This makes a big difference in the long run, that's why I use MTI. Jayson seems to combine quality, service, and dependability, with his packages; whereas, some tuners just go for the numbers and let the dependability fall it where it may. Finally, think about warranty, you'll not find any tuner who will back their work better than MTI. Jayson is pretty much a hassle free guy, as long as the engine had oil and didn't break because of NOx, he'll back his warranty without the hassles associated with other tuners.
Good luck in finding what you're looking for. :cheers:

 

Absolutely..The faster ramps of most any aftermarket cam will require stonger springs and a PCM program to be a daily driver.. There's always something when you start modding seals,pusrods,gaskets,bolts,new fluids..etc...I know! I've been there!! :yesnod:

BTW..If your doing a cam the labor costs will be $600+..you might as well do the U/D pulley too to save the $$ on install..since the installer has to pull the rack anyway for the cam install..:D

 

The B1 Cam is a good one for the A4, my card that came with the cam says it is a 221/221 559/559 114, not 558/558. It will definately need tuning, I gained about 29 rwhp with the cam and UDP.

I do need another dyno!

 

:yesnod:

 

Great info. :yesnod:

Good point about adding the UD pulley. Never crossed my mind, but certainly makes a hell of alot of sense to get it done at the same time.
:cheers:

Spoke with Chris at Speed Demon. Getting the UD pulley and 224/224 114LSA Cam.

Finally gonna get some "real" mods soon! :D :D
Early Xmas present to myself :lol: :lol:


[Modified by SvenOdin, 1:11 PM 10/18/2002]