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Thanks but im also replacing rear main seal and rear cover seal. So the bell housing needs to come off..
I think im going to try and jack up the motor a bit so it tilts forward...
OK, Makes sense, you will need the jack the back of the motor up to find the sweet spot to get access to the bolt. Also make sure the BAR-BELL is not the source of a oil leak.
Thanks but im also replacing rear main seal and rear cover seal. So the bell housing needs to come off..
I think im going to try and jack up the motor a bit so it tilts forward...
I would put a few bolts back in so that, that bolt isn't holding everything on. You may have to play with the angle of the motor to get the socket on. I used a shallow socket with a universal on the socket. I believe that is the one that likes to get the socket/bolt lodged into the frame rail. Break it loose with a ratchet and get the last using your fingers.
OK, Makes sense, you will need the jack the back of the motor up to find the sweet spot to get access to the bolt. Also make sure the BAR-BELL is not the source of a oil leak.
Can you get taller kent more jacking pads. I'm thinking to help get at least another inch or two of height would help out a lot.
No problem on getting an extra inch or two with the additional quick jack rubber blocks, the issue is the lifting hight if the trans jack...you may end up with the car to high for the trans jack to reach and secure the trans for removal and install.
GOOSE
Ok i got to the.bolt by lifting the rear of the motor a bit. It gave just enough clearance to get a socket on.
To drop the bell housing...do i need to remove the clutch first??
If yes...
I proceed by:
-removing clutch
-removing bell housing
-remove flywheel
-remove pilot and replace
-take off cover, replace barebell and cover/rear main seals
-reinstall cover
-install new flywheel
-install bell housing
-then clutch
Ok i got to the.bolt by lifting the rear of the motor a bit. It gave just enough clearance to get a socket on.
To drop the bell housing...do i need to remove the clutch first??
If yes...
I proceed by:
-removing clutch
-removing bell housing
-remove flywheel
-remove pilot and replace
-take off cover, replace barebell and cover/rear main seals
-reinstall cover
-install new flywheel
-install bell housing
-then clutch
Does this make sense?
Thanks so much!
this would be my approach;
put 1 bolt back in bell housing to secure bell housing while working the clutch, you dont want to loose a finger if the bell pops of the engine while working the clutch!
put pilot bearing tool in clutch, this is a saftey and this will prevent the clutch and disk from taking your fingers off or fall on your face when you remove all of the pressure plate bolts!
onec all the bolts are out of the pressure plate, you will be able to position yourself under the car to handle the weight of the pressure plate and disk, remove pilot bearing tool and the pressure plate and disk.
next, remove flywheel, then remove bell housing.
do you dirty rear main seal work first, the once done, then remove and install new pilot bearing.
cheers
GOOSE
Ok i got to the.bolt by lifting the rear of the motor a bit. It gave just enough clearance to get a socket on.
To drop the bell housing...do i need to remove the clutch first??
If yes...
I proceed by:
-removing clutch
-removing bell housing
-remove flywheel
-remove pilot and replace
-take off cover, replace barebell and cover/rear main seals
-reinstall cover
-install new flywheel
-install bell housing
-then clutch
Does this make sense?
Thanks so much!
I have removed the bellhousing first, and as stated you can pull the clutch without removing the bellhousing. If the bellhousing has to come out, I would just get it out of the way first.
Pilot bearing removal;
make sure you use a slide hamer and bearing adaptor to remove the pilot bearing. Do not use any " old school" methods as you risk damaging the oil gallety plug at the back of the cranke behind the pilot bearing!!!!
pilot bearing installation orientation.
make sure when installing the pilot bearing that you have the correct face of the bearing facing out of the crank shaft .
cheers
GOOSE Blind Hole Bearing Puller Pilot Bearing Removed Pilot Bearing removed (on the puller) Pilot Bearing Installed
Last edited by 69; Dec 14, 2019 at 07:42 AM.
Reason: added tooling photos
did that trans jack have the right angle of travel for removing it and installing back again?
were you able to put the strap around it before you lowered it?
I was able to lower it some first to be able to remove some of the wiring clips. The output shaft still in the clutch. I then strapped it down.
While trying to remove the bellhousing, i forced to much on the headers(unbolted, just dangling) and broke two of the driver side spark plugs....
I have ARH long tubes. I should have disconnected the wires from the spark plugs first, as i left them there and they were supporting the headers.... f... me.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
i have an A4 and stock headers, i will use it for a diff swap to 3.15. this helped me out i was wondering exactly how i was going to lower it mechanically
Last edited by bobs77vet; Apr 24, 2018 at 09:04 PM.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
let me ask another question,why did you remove the upper A arm bolts instead of removing the upper ball joint? i have seen this done both ways. thanks bob
A arm bolts are easier to get to, torque back to spec, and less likely to be damaged from removing in my opinion. I have also had the hex head center of old ball joints start to round.
Pulling the plugs is always a good idea when unbolting the headers from the head. I've broken a spark plug as well.
A few friends and I use very much the same sequence as 69. The trans jack is a life saver.
rereading this, putting a lug nut back on the spindle is smart. We've had a rotor fall off while lowering the cradle, that can get your attention.
thanks why not just remove the rotor at first to reduce the cradle weight?
You could, I don't see weight as the problem. Leaving them on results in a few less random items to have around the shop especially if it is a project where you are pulling it off and then waiting on something to arrive or get rebuilt. If you have had a car down for months, it is easy for a lug nut to some how grow legs.
Hello All, I received a PM on this thread and the photos I had uploaded to this thread were deleted by "tiny-pic" web hosting...I have refreshed this thread by uploading the deleted photos and added addition photos.
Cheers,
Goose
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