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I have everything tore apart now. And need to rebuild my torque tube. The couplers are shot. I don't have play in the bearings, but @260k new ones won't hurt. I have the early 10mm couplers here's the damage.
my question is, what are the best couplers and bearings? I see rpm has a kit and it's expensive. I have heard varing results on bmw couplers. I do not want the polyurethane, all I have read are bad reviews. Feel free to change my mind though.
I have the sizes on the bearings
2 x 6008 2RSJEM single row ball bearing
1 x 6007 2RSJEM single row ball bearing
But it seems buying separate bearings does not save much unless I can find quality couplers that don't cost a fortune. I'd like a metal coupler for the rear but can't find a 10mm one.
Also you will need a new "slinger" which is the washer that protects the front bearing from jets of clutch dust. It gets damaged when you remove it. Part number: 12456208
Also you will need a new "slinger" which is the washer that protects the front bearing from jets of clutch dust. It gets damaged when you remove it. Part number: 12456208
I wondered what the purpose of the slinger was when I rebuilt my 03 automatic. It came off easy and could have been reused if I hadn't already bought a new one. I used the BMW couplers which have the exact same markings on them as the GM ones so we will see how they hold up and they are much cheaper. Try bimmerworld.com . Also remember that heat is your friend when removing the coupler bolts they have locktite on them. Good luck
Let's see, the originals lasted pretty much to 260K, but we're going to debate whether they are worth the purchase price? If the BMW are truly the same, from the same materials at the same supplier, fine. K&L fork seals are the same as OEM on many motorcycles, for much less money. I'd just like to see a set of side-by-side photos. Till then, when my tube's time comes, I'll go OEM.
Or maybe both, and take pictures...
Very happy with my BMW couplers (also for 10mm application). Inspected them after 10k of daily beatings and half a dozen track days, they still looked new.
Let's see, the originals lasted pretty much to 260K, but we're going to debate whether they are worth the purchase price? If the BMW are truly the same, from the same materials at the same supplier, fine. K&L fork seals are the same as OEM on many motorcycles, for much less money. I'd just like to see a set of side-by-side photos. Till then, when my tube's time comes, I'll go OEM.
Or maybe both, and take pictures...
Glad you got 260 out of yours mine died at 120ish. Unfortunately I didn't take any side by side pics but I am pretty sure I remember seeing some when I was looking at my options. I think the only difference was the GM in the mold.
Very happy with my BMW couplers (also for 10mm application). Inspected them after 10k of daily beatings and half a dozen track days, they still looked new.
Glad to hear they still look good. I don't plan on going back into the tube for a long time. Fingers crossed Is yours a manual or automatic? I hear the manuals take much more of a beating.
Mine started make a rattling/rocks in a can noise that would come and go. After taking it apart I could tell that chunks of rubber were getting stuck in between the back coupler and the tube. When they would come out the noise would go away until the next one got stuck. There was a black rubber ring around the inside of the tube at the rear coupler. Look at my posts and there is a video although its not very good.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Simtech
Mine started make a rattling/rocks in a can noise that would come and go. After taking it apart I could tell that chunks of rubber were getting stuck in between the back coupler and the tube. When they would come out the noise would go away until the next one got stuck. There was a black rubber ring around the inside of the tube at the rear coupler. Look at my posts and there is a video although its not very good.
thanks did it have any vibration sensations or mostly just audible distress
thanks did it have any vibration sensations or mostly just audible distress
No noticeable vibration just sounded horrible. I really thought it was the bearings but they were all in pretty good shape. They got replaced anyway because it is a project to get to them so you might as well do everything in the tube.
Thanks for all the replies. I need to do more shopping and price matching. I like the factory gm option but I'm not paying double for a gm stamp if they are bmw guibo joints.
As for the symptoms I had a vibration right before I pulled it all apart. I had some noises that sounded like a bearing going out but it was not consistent. I should have replaced it when I dropped in the engine a little over a year ago but did not feel any play. And to be honest did not know any better.
Torque tube rebuild
Is yours a manual or automatic? I hear the manuals take much more of a beating.
