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I have a 2001 Z51 with a sloppy & sticky clutch (especially @ High RPM) and I have determined that the problem is with the dreaded Master Cylinder. Research has led me to 3 modifications to help prevent this issue from happening in the future.
1: Change fluid to DOT4
2: Perform a Master Cylinder "Drill" Mod
3: Get the Tick Master Cylinder
With those three options in mind I would like to perform option 1 & 2 first due to cost of option 3. That being said how well does these seem to work, and is there a good write up somewhere for the "Drill Mod"? any help is much appreciated!
Last edited by The Guerillaman; May 21, 2018 at 02:43 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
the clutch master and slave are 2 different parts but I'm pretty sure I know of the issue you are experiencing, most of us that own 6 speeds know all about it... the tick master is a great piece to have if you can afford it since it will allow you to adjust for basically any clutch you ever buy... some people don't like the heavier pedal feel which I understand BUT tick also offers a stock bore master that will not increase pedal effort, you just have to ask for that one... that being said I have my doubts that it will fix the problem, I went down the same road with my car and tried everything aside from changing the clutch and some things helped but never completely solved the problem... the real fix is a good quality aftermarket clutch, after that my car shifts like butter at redline every time
the clutch master and slave are 2 different parts but I'm pretty sure I know of the issue you are experiencing, most of us that own 6 speeds know all about it... the tick master is a great piece to have if you can afford it since it will allow you to adjust for basically any clutch you ever buy... some people don't like the heavier pedal feel which I understand BUT tick also offers a stock bore master that will not increase pedal effort, you just have to ask for that one... that being said I have my doubts that it will fix the problem, I went down the same road with my car and tried everything aside from changing the clutch and some things helped but never completely solved the problem... the real fix is a good quality aftermarket clutch, after that my car shifts like butter at redline every time
Thanks for the feedback! Hoping I don't have to put a new clutch in. It shifts fine and bites great just under high RPM she sticks, so I am hoping the master cylinder is the culprit. Will update as shes gonna be going in the shop soon.
Last edited by The Guerillaman; May 21, 2018 at 02:46 PM.
I went down the same path. I had the clutch pedal stick to the floor. Tried changing the clutch fluid via the "ranger method" and used a hi-temp DOT4 fluid. It helps a tad but isn't the solution. I also installed the Tick master cylinder. It's a nice unit, but didn't solve the problem. I also tried the LPE clutch pedal return spring, still not the solution.
The only real fix is a new upgraded clutch.
Typically the clutch issues pop up after adding some horsepower (cam, headers, etc). Have you recently done any performance work?
I went down the same path. I had the clutch pedal stick to the floor. Tried changing the clutch fluid via the "ranger method" and used a hi-temp DOT4 fluid. It helps a tad but isn't the solution. I also installed the Tick master cylinder. It's a nice unit, but didn't solve the problem. I also tried the LPE clutch pedal return spring, still not the solution.
The only real fix is a new upgraded clutch.
Typically the clutch issues pop up after adding some horsepower (cam, headers, etc). Have you recently done any performance work?
Other than a Billy Boat axle back nothing. I just purchased this car this past December with no clutch issues until 2 weeks ago. I have not done anything to put real stress on the clutch (burnouts & such) but the car does have 111,000 miles on it and I bought it with 106,000.
The pedal would stick to the floor and everything I tried didn't help. Finally the clutch gave out and when I had it changed the slave had been leaking ruining the disc. Once changed, added remote bleeder, all issues were gone.
Note: 175,000 miles all mine and on my 3rd clutch.
Last edited by Rick Manning; May 22, 2018 at 11:07 AM.
If you end up replacing the clutch, the LS7 clutch is an excellent upgrade and is real cheap - about $500 for the clutch and flywheel, compared to at least $750 for an aftermarket clutch.
I have a 2001 Z51 with a sloppy & sticky clutch (especially @ High RPM) and I have determined that the problem is with the dreaded Master Cylinder. Research has led me to 3 modifications to help prevent this issue from happening in the future.
1: Change fluid to DOT4
2: Perform a Master Cylinder "Drill" Mod
3: Get the Tick Master Cylinder
With those three options in mind I would like to perform option 1 & 2 first due to cost of option 3. That being said how well does these seem to work, and is there a good write up somewhere for the "Drill Mod"? any help is much appreciated!
The issue is caused by the clutch slipping under abuse, and generating to much heat, which causes the diaphragm spring to become heat fatigued, and not push back against the hydraulics.
So the short of the long is that its the clutch failing not the hydraulics.
the clutch master and slave are 2 different parts but I'm pretty sure I know of the issue you are experiencing, most of us that own 6 speeds know all about it... the tick master is a great piece to have if you can afford it since it will allow you to adjust for basically any clutch you ever buy... some people don't like the heavier pedal feel which I understand BUT tick also offers a stock bore master that will not increase pedal effort, you just have to ask for that one... that being said I have my doubts that it will fix the problem, I went down the same road with my car and tried everything aside from changing the clutch and some things helped but never completely solved the problem... the real fix is a good quality aftermarket clutch, after that my car shifts like butter at redline every time
Which aftermarket clutch did you install? Did you replace the slave cylinder too and if so, what brand was it?
Thought I'd chime in on this, having replaced my Tick MC with a smaller bore piston. The engagement area was about 1/8" at around 1/2 way through the pedal travel. Big difference, but not really what I wanted. Now, the engagement is about 1/4", so, twice as good, but it's about an inch off the floorboard. It has improved, but I have to relearn driving with it this way. BTW, I have a twin carbon RPS, and I've heard others having similar problems with a Tick MC combo. One nice thing; smooth, and no noise at all. It's just very abrupt.