Malfunctioning Master Slave Cylinder :(
#1
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Malfunctioning Master Slave Cylinder :(
I have a 2001 Z51 with a sloppy & sticky clutch (especially @ High RPM) and I have determined that the problem is with the dreaded Master Cylinder. Research has led me to 3 modifications to help prevent this issue from happening in the future.
1: Change fluid to DOT4
2: Perform a Master Cylinder "Drill" Mod
3: Get the Tick Master Cylinder
With those three options in mind I would like to perform option 1 & 2 first due to cost of option 3. That being said how well does these seem to work, and is there a good write up somewhere for the "Drill Mod"? any help is much appreciated!
1: Change fluid to DOT4
2: Perform a Master Cylinder "Drill" Mod
3: Get the Tick Master Cylinder
With those three options in mind I would like to perform option 1 & 2 first due to cost of option 3. That being said how well does these seem to work, and is there a good write up somewhere for the "Drill Mod"? any help is much appreciated!
Last edited by The Guerillaman; 05-21-2018 at 02:43 PM.
#2
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the clutch master and slave are 2 different parts but I'm pretty sure I know of the issue you are experiencing, most of us that own 6 speeds know all about it... the tick master is a great piece to have if you can afford it since it will allow you to adjust for basically any clutch you ever buy... some people don't like the heavier pedal feel which I understand BUT tick also offers a stock bore master that will not increase pedal effort, you just have to ask for that one... that being said I have my doubts that it will fix the problem, I went down the same road with my car and tried everything aside from changing the clutch and some things helped but never completely solved the problem... the real fix is a good quality aftermarket clutch, after that my car shifts like butter at redline every time
#3
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the clutch master and slave are 2 different parts but I'm pretty sure I know of the issue you are experiencing, most of us that own 6 speeds know all about it... the tick master is a great piece to have if you can afford it since it will allow you to adjust for basically any clutch you ever buy... some people don't like the heavier pedal feel which I understand BUT tick also offers a stock bore master that will not increase pedal effort, you just have to ask for that one... that being said I have my doubts that it will fix the problem, I went down the same road with my car and tried everything aside from changing the clutch and some things helped but never completely solved the problem... the real fix is a good quality aftermarket clutch, after that my car shifts like butter at redline every time
Last edited by The Guerillaman; 05-21-2018 at 02:46 PM.
#4
I went down the same path. I had the clutch pedal stick to the floor. Tried changing the clutch fluid via the "ranger method" and used a hi-temp DOT4 fluid. It helps a tad but isn't the solution. I also installed the Tick master cylinder. It's a nice unit, but didn't solve the problem. I also tried the LPE clutch pedal return spring, still not the solution.
The only real fix is a new upgraded clutch.
Typically the clutch issues pop up after adding some horsepower (cam, headers, etc). Have you recently done any performance work?
The only real fix is a new upgraded clutch.
Typically the clutch issues pop up after adding some horsepower (cam, headers, etc). Have you recently done any performance work?
#5
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I went down the same path. I had the clutch pedal stick to the floor. Tried changing the clutch fluid via the "ranger method" and used a hi-temp DOT4 fluid. It helps a tad but isn't the solution. I also installed the Tick master cylinder. It's a nice unit, but didn't solve the problem. I also tried the LPE clutch pedal return spring, still not the solution.
The only real fix is a new upgraded clutch.
Typically the clutch issues pop up after adding some horsepower (cam, headers, etc). Have you recently done any performance work?
The only real fix is a new upgraded clutch.
Typically the clutch issues pop up after adding some horsepower (cam, headers, etc). Have you recently done any performance work?
#6
Advanced
I believe the slave cylinder is the weak link.
The pedal would stick to the floor and everything I tried didn't help. Finally the clutch gave out and when I had it changed the slave had been leaking ruining the disc. Once changed, added remote bleeder, all issues were gone.
Note: 175,000 miles all mine and on my 3rd clutch.
The pedal would stick to the floor and everything I tried didn't help. Finally the clutch gave out and when I had it changed the slave had been leaking ruining the disc. Once changed, added remote bleeder, all issues were gone.
Note: 175,000 miles all mine and on my 3rd clutch.
Last edited by Rick Manning; 05-22-2018 at 11:07 AM.
#7
Le Mans Master
If you end up replacing the clutch, the LS7 clutch is an excellent upgrade and is real cheap - about $500 for the clutch and flywheel, compared to at least $750 for an aftermarket clutch.
#8
Former Vendor
I have a 2001 Z51 with a sloppy & sticky clutch (especially @ High RPM) and I have determined that the problem is with the dreaded Master Cylinder. Research has led me to 3 modifications to help prevent this issue from happening in the future.
1: Change fluid to DOT4
2: Perform a Master Cylinder "Drill" Mod
3: Get the Tick Master Cylinder
With those three options in mind I would like to perform option 1 & 2 first due to cost of option 3. That being said how well does these seem to work, and is there a good write up somewhere for the "Drill Mod"? any help is much appreciated!
1: Change fluid to DOT4
2: Perform a Master Cylinder "Drill" Mod
3: Get the Tick Master Cylinder
With those three options in mind I would like to perform option 1 & 2 first due to cost of option 3. That being said how well does these seem to work, and is there a good write up somewhere for the "Drill Mod"? any help is much appreciated!
So the short of the long is that its the clutch failing not the hydraulics.
Give us a shout if you have any questions.
#9
Instructor
the clutch master and slave are 2 different parts but I'm pretty sure I know of the issue you are experiencing, most of us that own 6 speeds know all about it... the tick master is a great piece to have if you can afford it since it will allow you to adjust for basically any clutch you ever buy... some people don't like the heavier pedal feel which I understand BUT tick also offers a stock bore master that will not increase pedal effort, you just have to ask for that one... that being said I have my doubts that it will fix the problem, I went down the same road with my car and tried everything aside from changing the clutch and some things helped but never completely solved the problem... the real fix is a good quality aftermarket clutch, after that my car shifts like butter at redline every time
#10
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#11
Race Director
Thought I'd chime in on this, having replaced my Tick MC with a smaller bore piston. The engagement area was about 1/8" at around 1/2 way through the pedal travel. Big difference, but not really what I wanted. Now, the engagement is about 1/4", so, twice as good, but it's about an inch off the floorboard. It has improved, but I have to relearn driving with it this way. BTW, I have a twin carbon RPS, and I've heard others having similar problems with a Tick MC combo. One nice thing; smooth, and no noise at all. It's just very abrupt.