Longevity Wise... Dry or Wet?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 499
Likes: 3
Longevity Wise... Dry or Wet?
Hey guys.
So I daily drive my 97. It has 170k on it & I'm just getting ready for the inevitable. I've replaced the trans, torque tube, clutch already. Been researching a lot & I've got my heart set on dropping in a LS7. However, just debating on whether to keep it as a dry sump system or convert it to a wet sump. I don't track the car, but I do occasionally go up into the mountains & just have some fun.
My question to ya'll is what would be better for reliability & longevity? Wet sump or dry sump?
From what I was able to research, the LS7 is dry sump because of a few things.
1) Lower the CG
2) HP gains
3) The cylinder wall thickness
If I remember right, the ls7 cylinder walls are so close that there wasn't room for a coolant passage in between the cylinders like there is on a LS1/2/3/6. So they made it a dry sump & put "squirters" that squirt oil from the crank galleys upwards into the bottom of the piston/cylinder to help cooling. If anyone knows if this is true or not, let me know.
Any other advice would be appreciated. Thank you!
So I daily drive my 97. It has 170k on it & I'm just getting ready for the inevitable. I've replaced the trans, torque tube, clutch already. Been researching a lot & I've got my heart set on dropping in a LS7. However, just debating on whether to keep it as a dry sump system or convert it to a wet sump. I don't track the car, but I do occasionally go up into the mountains & just have some fun.
My question to ya'll is what would be better for reliability & longevity? Wet sump or dry sump?
From what I was able to research, the LS7 is dry sump because of a few things.
1) Lower the CG
2) HP gains
3) The cylinder wall thickness
If I remember right, the ls7 cylinder walls are so close that there wasn't room for a coolant passage in between the cylinders like there is on a LS1/2/3/6. So they made it a dry sump & put "squirters" that squirt oil from the crank galleys upwards into the bottom of the piston/cylinder to help cooling. If anyone knows if this is true or not, let me know.
Any other advice would be appreciated. Thank you!
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,669
Likes: 7,303
From: CT
Don't take my word for gospel, as I do not have the specific answer you seek. All I can do is suggest searching and reading on the performance sections on here. When I looked up the potential of an LS3 swap I learned that those doing it for track use had to install heavy duty wet sump systems or they found the engines would burn out in half an hour of working the twisties - that hard (left?) turns created momentary dry spells for the factory pump. Definitely worth researching for an in-depth answer. Especially if you enjoy disappearing into the mountains.
On a side note, my curiosity is picqued: you own an old C5 with high miles which is now arguably worth little, yet you are seeking out an LS7 which on its own will cost more than your car, and likely the oil system may be more expensive on its own as well. Why LS7? Also, they seem hard to find. When they pop up, they sell immediately in any condition for 7 to 9k. The same power can be had with countless other LS combinations for pennies on the dollar.
On a side note, my curiosity is picqued: you own an old C5 with high miles which is now arguably worth little, yet you are seeking out an LS7 which on its own will cost more than your car, and likely the oil system may be more expensive on its own as well. Why LS7? Also, they seem hard to find. When they pop up, they sell immediately in any condition for 7 to 9k. The same power can be had with countless other LS combinations for pennies on the dollar.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 499
Likes: 3
I looked at LS3 swaps & such. I may end up going that route. I just love the deep growl of the LS7 & the simple fact that it's a 7.0L, just sounds menacing.
I know, the C5 can be had for under 10k now. I looked into getting a C6Z06 but they are STOOPID expensive. My car is paid off, insurance is relatively cheap for a 22 year old. I've done a lot of work to the car. Had the trans slightly beefed, LS7 clutch, torque tube rebuilt, rebuilt all brakes, bushings, sway bar links, a/c compressor, condenser, evaporator, lines, all replaced. Interior did alpine type r speakers all around, coaxial front, components rear, JL sub in back, 5 channel amp. Joying double din. C6 black power seats. C6 z06 shocks. 2010 Camaro ss wheels. 2" lowering kit.
Basically, the car is slowly getting it to where I want it. I've done a bunch of preventative maintenance as well as slightly upgrading it as I go. I will always tinker. I can't just drive a car. Even if it's a Corolla or Civic, I can't just drive it. Even if it's just a pos. I have to tinker. So that's my reasoning. Just upgrade what I got cuz even if I spend 30k on a new car, it still won't be good enough. Lol
I know, the C5 can be had for under 10k now. I looked into getting a C6Z06 but they are STOOPID expensive. My car is paid off, insurance is relatively cheap for a 22 year old. I've done a lot of work to the car. Had the trans slightly beefed, LS7 clutch, torque tube rebuilt, rebuilt all brakes, bushings, sway bar links, a/c compressor, condenser, evaporator, lines, all replaced. Interior did alpine type r speakers all around, coaxial front, components rear, JL sub in back, 5 channel amp. Joying double din. C6 black power seats. C6 z06 shocks. 2010 Camaro ss wheels. 2" lowering kit.
Basically, the car is slowly getting it to where I want it. I've done a bunch of preventative maintenance as well as slightly upgrading it as I go. I will always tinker. I can't just drive a car. Even if it's a Corolla or Civic, I can't just drive it. Even if it's just a pos. I have to tinker. So that's my reasoning. Just upgrade what I got cuz even if I spend 30k on a new car, it still won't be good enough. Lol
