Hey guys, question for you.
I recently noticed that my passenger side vents are not blowing cold like my driver side. I had the ac charged, so I know it's not that.
I recently had a sub and amp installed and the guy ran the wires to my radio from the passenger side. Not sure if he could have done something, but I doubt it.
Has anyone had this issue happen to them? If so, what do I need to look for to try and fix it? Thanks!

 

Did you actually have it charged properly the correct amount put in ?

 

I did. I ran the codes and found a code B0446 that was for the RH Electric Actuator.
Not sure how to fix this, but I thought I read somewhere that you have to remove the dash to get to it...

 

Are you blowing warm air from the passenger side? If it is a bad actuator, the RH actuator requires pulling the dash to get to it. First thing I would do is remove fuse #27 from the fuse panel located behind the carpeting, inside passenger foot area. Leave it out for 5-10 minutes and then re-ensert the fuse (this causes a reset to the HVAC actuators) and start the car. Run diagnostics from the DIC and see if you are still throwing codes for the RH actuator.

 

What he said!

 

Blend door actuator. A quick google of C5 Corvette blend door actuator:
https://www.google.com/search?q=c5+c...hrome&ie=UTF-8
brings up many, many references both here and on other forums. Mine are dead too, and from the reading it appears the driver's side can be worked from under the dash, but the passenger side can not.

 

Moved to C5 Tech.

 

Great resources for anyone working on blend door actuator issues.

 

So do I have the key to on position before removing fuse, or leave everything off? (I have a similar problem on my 2000, after disconnecting the battery for a week to send my radio off to be modified). Now cold air comes out of passenger's outlets, but warmer air (slightly cold) comes out of center outlet. Worked perfectly before disconnecting the battery.

 

Off

 

FWIW you don't really need to remove the entire dash, just the dash cover:

 

OK....pulled #27 fuse (with key off) and reinserted after 10 minutes. Did this 3 times. No difference. Center a/c outlet is warmer than passenger outlets.
Any other thoughts? All I did was disconnect the battery for about a week. Worked perfectly before that. Help.......................

 

OK....pulled codes. There are 2 codes concerning the HVAC system

B0361 HC - Left actuator feedback shorted to ground
B0441 H Left actuator out of range

Does this mean the left actuator is shot? Needs replaced?
OR, can I reset the left actuator?

Thanks for any and all replies. This is the first problem with my 2000, with 48,000 miles on it.

 

I have pulled #27 fuse several times. I clear the codes and they come right back (even without driving).

Someone said to disconnect the battery AND pull fuse #27.

This all doesn't make sense to me. The air conditioning worked perfectly
before I disconnected the battery.

 

Here is what you are looking at to get to the passenger's actuator. It can barely be seen just above the body computer as a small part id tag below the round gray disk in the first picture. I spent most of a day on this, not hard, but you should get more hands to r&r the dash pad, it is fragile. I found that I could get a fingertip on the driver's actuator shaft end and turn the driver's temp **** slowly to test the actuator for correct movement. After the passenger's actuator was replaced I did the calibration routine before assembling the dash, with a helper, you can see the actuators move together.

The User manual states that the driver's temp **** must be adjusted to 73 degrees, the passenger **** to the middle (straight up) position, THEN turn it off and pull the fuse for one minute. I had to repeat this a couple of times, then it began to work correctly. You have to start the engine and give the ac head unit time to recalibrate itself before changing the **** settings. I also noticed that previous memory settings (door memory switch) needed to be erased and reprogrammed to the 73 degrees for this to work, otherwise, every time you put the ignition key in the ignition the memory will change the ac settings to the old stored settings. The reason the two actuators get out of synch is someone is spinning the temp ***** too fast for the head unit to follow.

After I explained what I was doing to my brother, (he owns a GMC pickup with dual zone ac) he used my method to get his truck's ac working properly (he is still trying to educate his 3 women to not twirl the *****). I got cold air out of both sides, but had no temp control over the passenger side. I had dic codes for out-of-range rh actuator. I pulled my dash pad and replaced the rh actuator, now it all works on auto mode. Cleaning the condenser and radiator cores of 20 years of debris accumulation by backflushing with water was a big factor for both engine temp and ac efficiency. Now I have engine operating temps below 200 degrees city driving and the ac vents blow 47 degrees on a 100 degree day. And I WAS going to install an aftermarket radiator. Now I see that the factory radiator is more than adequate.

Note-I found no proof that the door switch memory actually affects the HVAC memory in Corvette publications, but, frustrated that the 73 degree setting kept changing back to the previous old setting I had been using (60 degrees) I tried progamming the door memory switch after setting the temp to 73 degrees. It worked the next try. It may have been a coincidence, but I got positive results so I do that now. And, the blend door actuator reset seems to go quicker. This only takes a second to do. After driving this car for almost two years I notice that if I set the HVAC different from the previous ignition turn off setting, and I change it repeatedly away from the old setting, The HVAC will begin to start up at the new settings, and continue to do this until I change my settings, for instance, going from hot weather to cold weather or back.

Also, if the temp is at either 60 or 90 degrees, these two settings will block any other changes to HVAC settings (including the passenger temp ****). If you are running the driver's side at 60 degrees and the passenger wants it warmer, you will have to adjust the driver's temp away from 60 degrees to get a change in passenger temp, and the passenger only has a narrow range either side of the driver's temp. It works the same for heat temps. This last is from Corvette publications.

 

Btdt ^^^^^^^^

 

 

You shouldn't. Check the pressures first before adding refrigerant to avoid the risk of overcharging the system.

Get a set of A/C manifold gauges. Doesn't have to be top-of-the-line and uber expensive. One from Harbor Freight would be fine (or get a free loaner from an auto parts store).

Although not essential, a thermometer will give you a better idea of the A/C system health. You can get for around 5 bucks:


Check both pressures to have an idea of how things are. Take a look at this post. It has detailed instructions to check/add refrigerant.

-These are the CliffsNotes:

Check your pressures against the chart below. Make sure you take your readings with:

• Engine @ 2000 rpm
• A/C in coldest setting
• Fan at maximum speed
• Both windows down
• Thermometer in center air vent

When adding refrigerant, pay attention to both pressures, otherwise you might end up with the high side sky-high trying to get the low side to the chart's value.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Thank you sjhanc; I will try the 73 degree thing after I check the a/c refrigerant level with my newly purchased Harbor Freight gauge system. ( $47.00 with 20% off coupon).

Thanks everyone for the help!!

 

To sjhanc; A clarification. When you say "Then turn it off" do you mean the a/c on/off button, or turn key to off?
I just want to be sure I'm doing this right............................