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Hey fellas,
I just ordered this with the power duct complete for my 1999 Vert and will have it in a few days. I have read & watched their online vid how to install and I think I got this down pretty well.
Any tips with this install?
I see a mix of locations for the MAF, one near the throttle body and the other at the front of the power duct. Which one is best (stock car)?
I read one installer took 7 hours, I dont know WTF he was doing for 7 hrs but 3hrs seems tops for this install.
7 years ago when I had mine, I put MAF at the filter box connecting to the lower duct. I also believe that a small amount had to be cut off the power duct for it to fit properly. Mine was also a 99. People complain about quality of it but it is designed to let go (come apart) if you are ever in a crash. Otherwise it would just go through your hood and possibly other parts. It works as described and is a great bolt on part.
Hey fellas,
I just ordered this with the power duct complete for my 1999 Vert and will have it in a few days. I have read & watched their online vid how to install and I think I got this down pretty well.
Any tips with this install?
I see a mix of locations for the MAF, one near the throttle body and the other at the front of the power duct. Which one is best (stock car)?
I read one installer took 7 hours, I dont know WTF he was doing for 7 hrs but 3hrs seems tops for this install.
Thanks in advance!
If you have the VR B-2 on the car now, just use the original location.
If not ,you can use either location for the MAF.
FYI for all : Just remember to mock it up FIRST by laying the Duct and the MAF with hoses on it next to the TB and the Neck of whatever air intake you are running. This way you can see if any hose cutting or if placing the MAF in the other location is best for your combination.
Wow, just got this all in, I purchased it from a forum vendor here wildvettes.com, best price for the full and it even comes with the filter cleaning & re-oil kit. Very happy and cant wait until this Saturday for the install!
Good luck with install i did mine a few weeks ago can be PITA just take your time. I did use some silicone spray to help get rubber couplings on air bridge and MAF I had access to a lift which made it a little easier, also use a radiator hose pick tool to help getting rubber couplings around the bridge and MAF. ECS did a street tune to get the most out all the air from the new intake
How long did it take to do yours? I am sure I will want to clean everything in sight as I go along ( I'm funny that way) also would be a hell of a time to clean the radiator and condenser as it will be fully exposed
How long did it take to do yours? I am sure I will want to clean everything in sight as I go along ( I'm funny that way) also would be a hell of a time to clean the radiator and condenser as it will be fully exposed
It was close to 5 hrs I did clean the radiator and condenser and watch the video while doing it .................
Wow, just got this all in, I purchased it from a forum vendor here wildvettes.com, best price for the full and it even comes with the filter cleaning & re-oil kit. Very happy and cant wait until this Saturday for the install!
Thanks and get back to us on how many hours it took you....
The Blackwing is a good intake but it is still breathing heated engine air. If you live in a warm climate you will benefit from the VeraRam because it uses the unheated ambient air. If you run scan/logs of the two you will see anywhere from 60-100 degrees cooler air entering the engine as a result. The LS1 is a pretty efficient engine and adding more oxygen to the intake chamber (cooler more dense air) will improve its efficiency.
Now if you lived in the northern states, you would only notice the difference during the warmest summers days. One item to remember is to properly seal all the parts of the intake system, an un-metered air leak will cause rough engine loading. For those into drag racing, performance mods, etc, it will be necessary to have the PCM tuned for best results.
Does it really provide a big benefit over a blackwing intake on a mostly stock C5Z06?
Yes it does.
Ram air is more than making pressure . It's about force feeding the intake manifolds plenum actual ambient temp air. Regardless of what you see on the IAT temps that is NOT the temp inside the manifolds plenum. In most cases the temp inside the plenum will be 30-60 deg "ABOVE" what you see on the IAT temp readings . A proper ram air system will intercool the manifolds plenum , adding another 3-6% power gain from cold air alone ,regardless if additional MAP pressure is made. The B2 unit adds a 1/2 lb of pressure to a stock LS-1-LS-6 . Logging typical MAPS on those manifolds gives false readings because GM put the sensor against the back wall . That is where the air goes as it enters , slamming into the back wall artificially showing a higher map than if the reading were taken from the front neck or front of the plenum. ( that's why the rear cylinders run leaner)
When you add it all up between the flow increase, the cold air and the MAP pressure rise ,the gains are very significant and make the unit to this day, the dominant way to go for performance.
This job is complete, took a little more than 4 hours which included a trip to the auto store to get a grommet for the air filter box.
I wanted to use the factory screws in place but that would have been a fitment issue. Once the radiator shroud is in place, this thing isn't going anywhere. I got it installed where all of the fog light is viable so I am happy with that. I ran the car for 10 minutes with hood closed and re-tightened all clamps down. Took the car out, no codes, did about 60 miles various speeds, car feels better, a better response, got on her a little, for a stock car with CAI, Borla Atak with X pipe and Diablo 93 octane tune, this thing pulls and is all I need, even with a 275 rear, she chirps 2nd very easy. 4 hours 15 minutes, I'm happy. Pulled codes at the end and nothing, car is running very well!
Thanks for all of your inputs
Have this system almost a month, I really like it but only thing I have an issue with is the power duct slightly collapsing up near the throttle body. The power duct plastic is a bit flimsy and now I need to buy/cut a metal sleeve to put into the power duct where I can tighten up the clamp well enough. Instructions and the video do say to make sure you tighten these up well.
Using a 1/4 inch ratchet and not going crazy, I managed to collapse this duct when I removed it to install my throttle body bypass yesterday.
This job is complete, took a little more than 4 hours which included a trip to the auto store to get a grommet for the air filter box.
I wanted to use the factory screws in place but that would have been a fitment issue. Once the radiator shroud is in place, this thing isn't going anywhere. I got it installed where all of the fog light is viable so I am happy with that. I ran the car for 10 minutes with hood closed and re-tightened all clamps down. Took the car out, no codes, did about 60 miles various speeds, car feels better, a better response, got on her a little, for a stock car with CAI, Borla Atak with X pipe and Diablo 93 octane tune, this thing pulls and is all I need, even with a 275 rear, she chirps 2nd very easy. 4 hours 15 minutes, I'm happy. Pulled codes at the end and nothing, car is running very well!
Thanks for all of your inputs
Glad the install went well!! This unit would sure make a nice Christmas surprise !!
Vararam Install
