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So I noticed over the weekend that my Harmonic has a very slight wobble developing. My question is, what options are there other than the ATI, or the PB111 or whatever it’s part number is.
theyre kinda extreme one side or the other options, one seems really cheap the other too expensive. I’m not intending to race my car so he ATI seems overkill.
If if anybody has a positive experience with the power bond Balancer id love to hear it. Also, more importantly if anybody has had a negative experience with it.
what other options out there have you all tried? I’ll probably do the job myself. Seems like it’s a pain, but doable.
My stock harmonic balancer on my 03 vert wasn't wobbling at all but I read all the stories about it failing so I decided to have it replaced.
Like you are doing now, I asked questions and did research. I couldn't find any failures on the Powerbond so that's what I went with.
It's p/n PB1117N made by Dayco. I used the ARP Bolt Kit p/n 234-2503.
I also had both tensioners (p/n numbers 89337 and 89339, both idler pulleys p/n 89007 and 89135 and both belts changed too, They were made by Dayco too.
So far no problems.
Good luck!
hmm interesting, did you notice any reduction in a/c power or an increase in vehicle temps after installing it?
I don’t know if the a/c is reduced or not since it’s on a separate belt but never noticed any change, my fans are tuned to come on earlier so no affect on cooling, if your just a stock car I would just use the stock size but if your going to mod some, cam, headers ect then might as well go with underdrive for a couple more hp
My stock harmonic balancer on my 03 vert wasn't wobbling at all but I read all the stories about it failing so I decided to have it replaced.
Like you are doing now, I asked questions and did research. I couldn't find any failures on the Powerbond so that's what I went with.
It's p/n PB1117N made by Dayco. I used the ARP Bolt Kit p/n 234-2503.
I also had both tensioners (p/n numbers 89337 and 89339, both idler pulleys p/n 89007 and 89135 and both belts changed too, They were made by Dayco too.
So far no problems.
Good luck!
I don’t know if the a/c is reduced or not since it’s on a separate belt but never noticed any change, my fans are tuned to come on earlier so no affect on cooling, if your just a stock car I would just use the stock size but if your going to mod some, cam, headers ect then might as well go with underdrive for a couple more hp
As for mods so far the car has long tubes, Borla stingers, LS6 intake, cross over lines, Halltech CAI, high flow cats, an aftermarket MAF housing, a Katech billet Tensioner C6 z06 brakes and rotors (with the very low mileage z06 seats from that same car), billstein shocks, aftermarket sway bars (no idea which at this time) and a square wheel setup on 18” speedlines front and back on nt01 rear nt05 fronts. The previous owner was working to make it his race toy I think, but for me it’s just a DD with some light modding. I don’t really want to do a cam due to the average loss of daily drivability. Do you think it’d still be worth it for the under-drive? A few extra hp sounds nice, but I don’t know if I wanna mess with the fans or cooling of the car with it already pressing 215-220 on hot days in stop and go Virginia traffic.
I think stock size would be fine, it’s one of those mods you wouldn’t really notice an increase by driving but if you were racing and trying to get everything out of it I would say go for it
I installed a Power Bond OEM replacement balancer. I have about 10,000 miles on it and no problems. I also went with the ARP bolt. I think that the stock Power Bond would be the way to go.
I installed a Power Bond OEM replacement balancer. I have about 10,000 miles on it and no problems. I also went with the ARP bolt. I think that the stock Power Bond would be the way to go.
thats the way I’m currently leaning, with that ARP bolt too ofc.
Powerbond vs ATI can be debated all day. I have an ATI but I plan on running HPDEs. If it were a street car I would likely go Powerbond. General idea in the past was 10% under for street cars and the 20% for those with electric water pump. Granted depending conditions and other mods many could get away with 20% without the electric water pump. Sitting in summer Atlanta traffic for hours I would prefer 10% without an electric water pump even with the fans coming on sooner.
The ARP bolt I very much like over the torque to yield single use GM Bolt. ARP is an an easier installation process and can be reused.
Powerbond vs ATI can be debated all day. I have an ATI but I plan on running HPDEs. If it were a street car I would likely go Powerbond. General idea in the past was 10% under for street cars and the 20% for those with electric water pump. Granted depending conditions and other mods many could get away with 20% without the electric water pump. Sitting in summer Atlanta traffic for hours I would prefer 10% without an electric water pump even with the fans coming on sooner.
The ARP bolt I very much like over the torque to yield single use GM Bolt. ARP is an an easier installation process and can be reused.
thanks for the insight!
i know those torque to yield bolts are designed to stretch when installed which is what makes them single use, however when using the ARP what changes specifically about the installation process?
I put about 30 track days on a "wobbly" stock balancer. Finally started to slip and replaced with PB/Dayco stock replacement with 5 track days so far. I mark the balancer to check if spun balancer/bolt and also would check flushness of the 2 pieces... I think a slight wobble is normal.
I put about 30 track days on a "wobbly" stock balancer. Finally started to slip and replaced with PB/Dayco stock replacement with 5 track days so far. I mark the balancer to check if spun balancer/bolt and also would check flushness of the 2 pieces... I think a slight wobble is normal.
noted, in honesty the vibration that tipped me to even check for wobble I now suspect is related to the torque tube or transmission anyways.
that said, my FRC did just hit 100k last week and I think it’s still in the original balancer. Probably gonna swap it regardless (after situation this other issue.)