Just purchased a 2001 C5 looking to do my first oil change, dealer or DIY? Is it as simple as running the front tires up on a ramp, crawl under and drain?

Thanks,

 

 

You need a jack, jackstands and jacking pucks, The jack is so you can raise the front end enough to access and remove the drain plug and have enough room to swing a wrench, and to access and remove the filter.You also have to raise the rear higher than the front so that all the old oil can drain out. Ramps will only allow you to raise the front end, you still need a jack. And unless you get expensive Race Ramps, which have a long approach, or bujild your own, the cheapo ramps you get at Walmart and similar will not work on this car because of the low bumper and air dams underneath, the slope of the ramp is too steep. You need a jack, you need a jack even with ramps, so forget ramps all together, Did I mention you need a jack?
The pucks are needed underneath the car so that you don't crush or crack the plastic body panels with the jack pad. You can buy a set for $45-50 online or make your own for $10 or less, Search on here, there are numerous threads on options for these,
Also, after you buy a jack and stands and pucks, you have them for the next time and for everything else you want to use it for, like removing a wheel, etc. Jacks and stands are relatively inexpensive at Harbor Freight, especially with their sales, and are of good enough quality for our use. Their cost is what you would pay a dealer to change you oil once, and all it will cost you the next time is the $25 or so for the 6 quarts of Mobil 1 when you buy it on sale.
The first time I did mine, I jacked up one side of the car, put in a jackstand, then jacked up the other side, put in another jackstand, and then removed the oil plug and filter. While it was draining, i put a length of 2 x 10 under the rear and jacked it up 2" higher than the front and let it sit for 5-10 min. 'till it stopped. I didn't really like it sitting like that, with the rear up higher than the front on the jackstands, but it held and was solid and didb't slide off forward which is what I was afraid of.
Each following time I have changed my oil I have only jacked up the driver's side, put in a jackstand, removed the drain bolt and filter, then lowered the car and jacked up the rear over the 2 X10. When it was done,I lowered the rear, jacked up the front again, put in the jackstand, filled up and reinstalled the filter and drain plug, filled up the car with oil and checked for leaks, and then lowered the car. This was actually simpler and faster and I think it takes me 20-30 min at most to do this, including the time I let it sit to drain.
I found out a while ago, if I bring my own oil and filter over to my mechanic, he would charge me $20 to put the car up on his lift and change the oil, but it would take me longer than that to drive over there, wait for him to do this, and drive home again, so I will keep doing this myself and it's fun and makes me feel like I've accomplished something and I know how it was done.

 

Even though the Owner's Manual says to have the level, the front of the car should be a little lower than the back wen it's raised up for the oil drain part. That's because the drain plug is at the front of the oil pan. If the nose isn't lower, you will leave some oil in the pan. The oil filter isn't very high so you will need to find a small filter wrench that will grab the filter can. Unscrew the old filter and place it upside down in a drain pan so that the oil can drain out. Then wipe off the flange making sure there is nothing stuck to the flange.

Fill the oil filter with fresh oil and wipe a thin film of oil on the filter gasket and install. The drain plug need a 15mm wrench or socket. Make sure you have a big enough pan for draining the old oil. The LS1 engine uses 6.5 quarts of oil so you need a pan big enough to hold that amount. Before removng the plug, pull the dipstick and remove the filler cap. As mentioned, wait at least 7 minutes for the old oil to drain. When that stops, replace the drain plug.

The factory fill was Mobil-1 in 5W-30 weight. The current Mobil- is Dexos approved and the containers will still show the GM 4781 spec. I usually get a 5-quart jug of Mobil-1 and a 6-pack case of quart bottles at Costco when it is on sale. You can use the 5-quart jug to hold some of the old oil and a gallon milk jug for the rest. Replace the dipstick and verify that the oil level is at the top of the marks. Start the engine and let it run for a couple of minutes. Shut the engine down then wait a few minutes before checking the dipstick. Add oil if necessary/

 

I made 4 wooden ramps that get it high enough to get jack under front and rear cross members.
Put jack stands on each ends of cross members with rear stands a notch or two higher than front.
Unscrew drain plug. Remove filter. Drink a beer. Put the plug back in. Install new filter.
Fill with 6 1/2 quarts of Mobil 1 5W - 30. Start, check for leaks. Take it down from jack stands..
Take old oil to AZ.
EZ Pee Z. .

 

Thanks guys, made my decision a lot eaiser.

 

Which is...? DIY for me, but I do most all repairs and maintenance to my vehicles.

 

It should go without saying but, when you have the car on ramps and go to jack up the rear please chock the front wheels.

 

You don't have to get every last drop out. Just drive up on ramps and drain the oil and remove the filter. The engine will have about 1/3 qt of old oil. So What!

Do it more often.

 

Its an oil change,were not reinventing the wheel cause its corvette, 30min or less job

 

I just level the car with a jack, drain the oil, pull filter, jack the rear a tad higher towards the end, then fill and lower. Doesn't take longer than ~20-25 minutes now and most of that is waiting for all the oil to drain through the C5's relatively shallow sump. It takes a little longer that you'd expect it to.

There really shouldn't be a need to take it to a shop unless you absolutely don't have the ability to change it, and if you're concerned about keeping up w/ service records write it down on the receipt.

 

The hardest part of changing oil on a C5 is getting the car in the air.

I could see:
Driving the car up on ramps
Chock the rear tire
remove oil plug
Jack rear of car to level
lower rear of car once draining is complete
chock rear tires again
replace oil filter
reinstall oil plug
fill with oil
remove chocks and drive off ramps

 

You'd also want to chock the front wheels on the ramps also. The wheels need to be chocked while you raise the rear. Sorry for repeating myself. Safety always.

 

Agreed

 

It's just an oil change. If you don't have any experience doing that then go have it changed.
If you want to learn how just read what everyone here is saying and follow their advice.
It's a pain in the tail to put the car on ramps and then jack the rear up but that's what's needed. I do it and I'm old and fat but I happen to love it!
Good luck!

 

I can't figure out why they put the drain plug in the front I drive mine onto 2x4 chunks - get the jack under it - remove the plug - then lower it again. Last time I pre-filled the filter before installing it - should have started doing this long ago! My other ride (4runner) has it on an angle and can't do it there...