Intermittent delayed starting problem
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Intermittent no-start/delayed starting problem
I have a 2004 Corvette Z06 that has the known problem of not starting(does nothing) when the key is turned to the start position, even though everything else seems to be ok. The battery is good, battery terminals are clean and torqued correctly, starter is new and the starter connections are good. A tech II was connected to the car but the car wasn’t experiencing the problem then.
One thing that is consistent is that when the car won’t start right away when the key is turned to the start position, if I hold the key in the start position sometimes even for a very long time 30 seconds to 1 minute the car will eventually start. I checked other posts and this symptom points to a bad ignition switch. When the tech II was connected to check the ignition switch, the key was also wiggled/pulled but no problem was found.
Has anyone else replaced the ignition switch to fix this delayed starting problem that I described and did that solve your problem or was the problem solved some other way?
Thanks
One thing that is consistent is that when the car won’t start right away when the key is turned to the start position, if I hold the key in the start position sometimes even for a very long time 30 seconds to 1 minute the car will eventually start. I checked other posts and this symptom points to a bad ignition switch. When the tech II was connected to check the ignition switch, the key was also wiggled/pulled but no problem was found.
Has anyone else replaced the ignition switch to fix this delayed starting problem that I described and did that solve your problem or was the problem solved some other way?
Thanks
Last edited by ZMechanism; Sep 1, 2018 at 08:04 PM.
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Had any maintenance been performed prior to the starting problems surfacing ??...now you said the starter was new...did it start happening after this ??...looks like you have some resistance somewhere in that starting circuit. Do you know your way around a DVOM or a test light ??...if so you can start troubleshooting at either end of the circuit from the ignition switch down to the starter or from the starter back up to the switch. Might be a good idea to do a voltage drop check on the battery cables too. Good Luck !!
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Answers to questions:
When the engine will not crank what happens to the SECURITY light on the dash when the key is left in the ON (NOT Start) position for 5 to 10 seconds?
* Light goes OUT?
Have you pulled the codes to see if there is any information there that can narrow in on the cause of the NO Crank??
I just pulled the codes again and there are no codes.
The starter was replaced because of this starting problem. Several times after a no-start condition, I tapped on the starter solenoid and the car started right up which usually indicates a bad starter solenoid, so I replaced the entire starter. The car now has the (delayed start) condition much less frequently after replacing the starter but it still does occasionally happen. Both battery cables were replaced with new OEM cables because of a problem with the terminals.
Testing the circuits can be done but since the car mostly starts right up now every time, the tests like the one with the tech II will not find anything when the problem is not happening. I just don't want to get stranded somewhere if/when the car gets into a complete no-start condition.
When the engine will not crank what happens to the SECURITY light on the dash when the key is left in the ON (NOT Start) position for 5 to 10 seconds?
* Light goes OUT?
Have you pulled the codes to see if there is any information there that can narrow in on the cause of the NO Crank??
I just pulled the codes again and there are no codes.
The starter was replaced because of this starting problem. Several times after a no-start condition, I tapped on the starter solenoid and the car started right up which usually indicates a bad starter solenoid, so I replaced the entire starter. The car now has the (delayed start) condition much less frequently after replacing the starter but it still does occasionally happen. Both battery cables were replaced with new OEM cables because of a problem with the terminals.
Testing the circuits can be done but since the car mostly starts right up now every time, the tests like the one with the tech II will not find anything when the problem is not happening. I just don't want to get stranded somewhere if/when the car gets into a complete no-start condition.
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According to #5 in this thread, the problem I described in my original post indicates a bad ignition switch. To confirm, has anyones car had this problem and was it fixed by replacing the ignition switch?
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Thanks for your help. I agree. I don't want to replace parts that may not be bad and that is why I am asking these questions. I want to know if I am on the right track to test for a bad ignition switch or may the problem be elsewhere? Adding more detail to my question, has anyones car had this problem, tested the fuses indicated in the specified thread and was it fixed by replacing the ignition switch?
My cars problem is intermittent. If the ignition switch was having an intermittent problem would I still find the bad ignition switch problem with lower voltage at the indicated fuses even though the car at that time was not experiencing the problem and would start right up?
My cars problem is intermittent. If the ignition switch was having an intermittent problem would I still find the bad ignition switch problem with lower voltage at the indicated fuses even though the car at that time was not experiencing the problem and would start right up?
