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The Zip Tie mod is when you remove the stock or ZO6 air cleaner top and zip tie what is left into place. You want to make sure you have a firm, secure seal of the back of the filter holder to the to the bottom of the filter assembly. I used small bungee chords to strap mine down. It's like a cheapy black wing! Throttle response and performance improvements were very obvious, and it even sounds better, with lighter pedal!
Can there be something I'm missing that could hurt my engine?
There is nothing that can hurt you engine, unless the seal between the air cleaner and backing is not super tight. Dirt is your enemy here and your MAF could get effected/damaged by an unlucky moth getting sucked through your system.
Sorry, but my guess is that your SOTP dyno is overestimating your "performance gain." There is limited restriction on the factory air cleaner and is pretty balanced for a stock motor. Unless you make big changes to your engine that requires more air (heads, cam, headers, TB, intake) I'd skip the zip tie and get a "professional" grade air cleaner that will seal up properly.
BTW... If memory serves the air flow on a stock TB can support over 700HP.
The open slot in the top of the Z06 air cleaner cover is 6.5 x 1.5," and unlike the stock cover, it doesn't have any air channels tubing through it. That's only 9.75 sq. inches of breathing space. The zip tie method opens up virtually all of the filter to let air into that LS 1 engine, which has quite the appetite for air if booted!
I just did this yesterday, and I don't have a dyno handy, but I'm sure this is an improvement, and a big one. Back in the early years of my ownership of the car, like 2006, or '07, my son bought me an ebay special, chrome, T shaped thing that had 2 small K&N type filters on the ends. That mod did not have nearly the magnitude of discernable power increase of this one, and this is a cheapy! It also gives you thorough filtration with cheap paper filters you can get at the local auto parts store.
I'm going back to the hardware store to get more bungees, ones that will squeeze that filter holder down a little harder. I'd also like to work the bungees a bit better to allow easier replacement of the filter. I put in years ago the black plastic turn signal scoop pieces with the holes cut out to allow better cold air flow. Also put in the the top front of the hood weather strip to prevent water from getting in on the filter, which also promotes better outside cold air intake.
I did a little different than the Zip Tie mod. I took the OEM air intakel cover and cut rows of 1" slots but not to a point of hurting the structure, so what I ended up is a louvre looking air intake with a K&N filter. Don't know what Dyno number is but the throttle responds is a much better.
I've owned my C5 for 14 years now, and consider it like my third child.
Every time I'd replace my air filter I wasn't totally sure if it was totally properly sealed, and feared allowing dirt into the intake. Let's face it, it's a long, cramped reach to lock the cover down, and there was no way to confirm you had properly set it after snapping down the clamps. With the zip tie, you can see the whole filter holder and put your hands on all the seal points. Prior to doing the mod, when I looked at the MAF, I was alarmed to see 1/2 sq". hunk of a leaf on the screen. Now I don't have to worry about this awkward, but critical filter installation. You can see the filter both from the open hood beside the car, and through the front of the open hood, up close and personal. I think the base frame of the filter/intake is quite rigid and strong. There are very good and convenient hook points for the small bungees, on both the lower and upper edge of the base. I did use small zip ties to permanently attach the lower hook points, which then makes it easy to unhook the upper hooks while replacing the filter. With the weatherstrip on the leading edge of the hood, and holes in the black turn signal scoop panels you have a simple, safe, and effective method for better breathing, and performance for your American Sportscar!
I would be more worried about top side debris with the zip tie mod. The area between the front fascia and hood isn't sealed with the hood closed, which allows debris and water to intrude. Personally if I were doing this or some sort of similar open filter element mod I would run a front hood seal to help alleviate the elements (it's still not 100% fool proof, since your headlight doors also do not have seals and allow elements to protrude).
Further personally thought I'd echo an earlier post; your stock system flows plenty for what you have. At best it's just making sure that you change your filter at regular intervals (paper element filters should really be changed ever 15k-20k miles for optimum flow) and ensuring the air bridge and couplers are sealed.
I posted pics of my efforts - I've been running this for a while now and have actually been surprised at the lack of debris that's been picked up. I've also run on the highway in the wet (no "pooled water" though) and not noticed any problems...
From: Philadelphia PA (Birthplace of the USA, UNESCO World Heritage City)
The one thing I will say about the zip tie mod is that now, the air filter is hanging and you're relying on the coupler to the air bridge to hold it in place. Before the mod, the cover over the air filter actually mounted to 2 studs on the front of the car to hold it more securely in place. I don't have major concerns since the air filter is pretty light, but something to be aware of.
Last edited by ArmchairArchitect; Sep 4, 2018 at 10:05 AM.
You have a good point on the hanging aspect of the mod,,,,
It would be pretty nasty if the throat disconnected at the MAF or the Throttle body. I've got a smooth throat after market piece on there that I have torqued to the point of cracking something.
I wonder if a big bungee wrapped around the base, and then hooked up on something up higher would do it. Conversely, maybe placing just the right item in front of the base to support its weight and block it from going downward would do it. I have some black 1/2" sq. black nylon mesh that might do the trick, still allowing tons of air to go by.
Another thought is that if this did happen, you'd likely hear it quickly, as the weight of the MAF assembly bouncing on top of the radiator scoop would sound like a base drum, or at least a floor tom tom! Then you'd pull over quickly, and press it back on.
I took another look under the hood of my car, and I don't think there is a problem with the current set up. At the mid point of the intake "Bridge" there are two nylon push buttons that attach the MAF and filter to the top side of the radiator scoop. That would be the weak point of the set up. I may substitute better hardware here to ensure no plastic fatigue of the nylon buttons. Then it would be pretty much bullet proof!
Due to my cheapness, I usually try to use existing stock hardware and parts when I can on a work around fix or mod. I usually like to avoid doing irreversible damage to original parts too. I needed to strengthen the attachment of the lower part of the intake assembly. At first I thought I'd put in real steel instead of plastic buttons on the air bridge attachment between the MAF and throttle body. I couldn't stop thinking about how solid that hardware was that attached the top of the stock air cleaner (since removed for this mod) and perhaps I could use those cryptic T30 bolts and their heavy rubber grommets in some fashion.
Then the idea came to me. Remove the grommets from the old air cleaner cover, Use the heavy T30 bolts and screw them through the grommets into the designed holes in the nose bulkhead of the car, but add perhaps put 2-3 washers to ensure they stick out enough to form an impassable set of bumpers for the bottom of the filter housing. I grabbed six stainless washers left over from the stainless hardware project for under the hatchback from a year back, and slapped them on. Then the moment of truth, would it all fit? YUP!
Bullet Proof! Grommets fully torqued in, protruding about 1.25." Filter in place, hood leading weatherstrip at top of picture.