Rear brake hard line
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 20
Likes: 2
From: Coaldale Colorado
Rear brake hard line
Discovered a leak in the left rear hard brake line. Apparently it's been rubbing against the axle and finally started leaking. Getting to the wheel end was easy, but the other end, above the tranny in the tunnel, is a bit tougher! Anybody have the magic formula for getting to the connection? I can get a wrench on one fitting but not two wrenches to keep the line from twisting.
Second question is replacement part. I can't find the part still available, so I assume I get to buy a straight line and bend it myself (avoiding the axle this time!). The wheel end appears to be a bubble flare. Is the tunnel end the same? Will the best choice be a Poly Armour PA-760? It's 6mm (catalog says some GM) with bubble flares on both ends. Was originally looking at 3/16 lines but not sure now.
Thanks in advance, Rick
Second question is replacement part. I can't find the part still available, so I assume I get to buy a straight line and bend it myself (avoiding the axle this time!). The wheel end appears to be a bubble flare. Is the tunnel end the same? Will the best choice be a Poly Armour PA-760? It's 6mm (catalog says some GM) with bubble flares on both ends. Was originally looking at 3/16 lines but not sure now.
Thanks in advance, Rick
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 368,447
Likes: 24,807
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Moved to C5 Tech.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 426
I can't believe you are doing this. I just finished this job. What a BIOTCH!
To get to the top connections disconnect the driver side tailpipe from the mid pipe and move it out of the way. Now you have room to move.
I crawled in from the passenger side. I know the lines are on the driver's side but you can't get your arms up there in such a short space.
You need to make or buy a 13mm flare nut wrench. It's a box wrench with part of the "box" cut out so you can slip it over the line. The flare nut wrench can be jammed against the tunnel or transmission and will hold the one side of the connection by itself. You can work the other side with a 13mm open end wrench one flat at a time.
I bought 3/16" Copper/Nickel line and made my own flares. They are all the same except one of the top ones which needs to be flared back on itself. The side that fits into it is the normal flare. These are ISO/Din bubble flares. Use the flat side of your anvil not the side with the flare. Just be sure yours look just like the ones on the line you take off.
What a pain in the a$$ fitting the line back in and connecting all the holders. I'll burn the car before I do this job again.
Good luck.
To get to the top connections disconnect the driver side tailpipe from the mid pipe and move it out of the way. Now you have room to move.
I crawled in from the passenger side. I know the lines are on the driver's side but you can't get your arms up there in such a short space.
You need to make or buy a 13mm flare nut wrench. It's a box wrench with part of the "box" cut out so you can slip it over the line. The flare nut wrench can be jammed against the tunnel or transmission and will hold the one side of the connection by itself. You can work the other side with a 13mm open end wrench one flat at a time.
I bought 3/16" Copper/Nickel line and made my own flares. They are all the same except one of the top ones which needs to be flared back on itself. The side that fits into it is the normal flare. These are ISO/Din bubble flares. Use the flat side of your anvil not the side with the flare. Just be sure yours look just like the ones on the line you take off.
What a pain in the a$$ fitting the line back in and connecting all the holders. I'll burn the car before I do this job again.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 20
Likes: 2
From: Coaldale Colorado
Thanks for the detailed information, but you didn't need to sugarcoat it! It looks like a pain in the a## and now it sounds like it. Leaving on vacation today so I have something to look forward to when I get back. Thanks again and still looking for the correct, already assembled pipe. Used is an option but they are really cheap (anybody here ever said that?) so my first choice is new.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 426
Used brake line???? EEEEEEWWWWWWW!!!! New is not an option as these cars are too old for dealer OEM and too new for "Classic" suppliers. They are just cars.
The other big problem with used brake lines is shipping. These lines are in a vaguely U shape about 2 foot across the ends and 2 foot sideways. Try getting that through UPS/Fedex/USPS cheaply and intact. One kink and you get to start over again.
The lines are 50" and 54" (L and R) in length. If the left went, the right will follow. Cop/Nickel is the easiest to bend and flare and it's impervious to corrosion but it doesn't come pre-bent.
The other big problem with used brake lines is shipping. These lines are in a vaguely U shape about 2 foot across the ends and 2 foot sideways. Try getting that through UPS/Fedex/USPS cheaply and intact. One kink and you get to start over again.
The lines are 50" and 54" (L and R) in length. If the left went, the right will follow. Cop/Nickel is the easiest to bend and flare and it's impervious to corrosion but it doesn't come pre-bent.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 1,965
Likes: 696
From: Avon Lake OH
I have had to replace rusty/leaking brakes line on several cars over the years - it is never a fun nor easy job. I always have used the Ni/Copp lines and have bought a few flaring tool kits over the years too.
Also on the C5 make sure the clamps are in place on the top of the rear subframe cross member that keep the hards hard lines anchored. Typically reinstalling the clamps can get overlooked during say a clutch replacement job. If the hard lines are not anchored they will be left to flop around (you will be amazed with the amount of movement if they are not anchored) and can hub against all sorts of stuff back under there and leaks can result as noted by the OP. If the clamps are missing on your car, you can use rubber dipped/coated Adel clamps as replacements along with the correct size and length small bolts and nyloc nuts - ask me how I know that trick. Also there have been more than a couple cases of the loose rear hard lines getting wrapped around the axles at the track events resulting in wreaks that were "not pretty".
Also on the C5 make sure the clamps are in place on the top of the rear subframe cross member that keep the hards hard lines anchored. Typically reinstalling the clamps can get overlooked during say a clutch replacement job. If the hard lines are not anchored they will be left to flop around (you will be amazed with the amount of movement if they are not anchored) and can hub against all sorts of stuff back under there and leaks can result as noted by the OP. If the clamps are missing on your car, you can use rubber dipped/coated Adel clamps as replacements along with the correct size and length small bolts and nyloc nuts - ask me how I know that trick. Also there have been more than a couple cases of the loose rear hard lines getting wrapped around the axles at the track events resulting in wreaks that were "not pretty".
