kh400

Besides cleaning the pos bat connection on the starter, run a six guage wire from the B+ pos battery terminal to the B+ positive terminal on the alternator. Makes another path to charge the alt. Did it on my 03. Good luck!

C6_Racer_X

Yes.

I tend to forget to warn people about this because it's second nature. ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE FIRST, BEFORE DOING ANY WORK ON THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. This warning is especially critical when working on the starter or alternator circuits, where large wires can carry significant currents and arc weld parts to the metal engine block or frame members.

stilambo07

GCG

Definitely!

GCG

I wouldn't recommend doing that... In fact, that's a critical hazard considering the huge currents that could potentially flow in that circuit.

There is a 10 Gauge Fusible Link between the alternator's output post and the starter solenoid-battery path. Running that extra wire, would render this protection useless.

C6_Racer_X

I was thinking that the wire he proposed adding would make a good incandescent warning light when the main cable from the battery to the starter goes out. But the fusible link you mention would prevent that.

Adding relatively small wires to the charging system or ground system in a vehicle is almost always a really bad idea. They might function as intended when everything is working (almost) properly, but when there's a problem, they can provide alternate paths for current, and if the wire is small and ends up being an alternate path for starter current, the small wire can catch fire and cause all kinds of damage when it overheats from the overload from the starter. I've seen some older vehicles where if the main ground strap fails, the (mechanical) speedometer cable ended up being the only remaining ground path for the starter, and those vehicles had some really spectacular events if the main ground strap(s) corroded through from road salt damage.

kh400

The reason I added an additional circuit to the alternator is because the factory setup runs to the starter solenoid, then the starter. Well, with all the heat in that area, there tends to be high resistance at the starter terminal which limits the amps the alt can send to the battery. I of course also cleaned that starter terminal before I added the additional wire. I also insulated that six guage wire with corregated plastic tubing. I am an ASE certified master tech with over fifty yrs experience, so I resent someone, even Bill Curlee from questioning my methods. By the way, the cable has been there for two yrs. and no warning lights or problems and the starter cranks the car better than it ever did.

C5 Diag

I agree 1000% GCG !!!...BTW, I am an FAA Certified Mechanic/Inspector with over 42 years of experience with a major airline !!

JR-01

Aren't you bypassing a critical fuse with that extra wire?

kh400

50 amp in-line fuse.

lionelhutz

You never mentioned a fuse in your original post about the wire. No fuse on the wire = BAD no matter who you are. With a fuse it would be OK.

But, you could just bring the original wire that goes down the back right corner of the engine up to the battery if you want to run a wire directly from the alternator to the battery.

stilambo07

JR-01

Yes. You will have to reset your clock.

GCG

Were you able to check this?:



Were you able to follow the troubleshooting procedure for abnormal battery drain as per Post 27 above?

lionelhutz

Just as another note, if your wiring looks like that picture above with the text then you need to do repairs. I see an insulation burn spot on the big red wire from the battery and I see a damaged taped up fusible link on the wire from the alternator.

GCG

That's just a picture that I borrowed from another thread. I know... it doesn't look good , but it was the only one I could find taken from that angle 👍