After hearing many great things about the Speed Engineering headers, such as good quality and great fitment that many claimed was actually better than some of the "high end" brands, I decided to go ahead and order some for my 2001 coupe. The only negative things I've heard are that the clamps they include are terrible, so I went ahead and ordered some high quality wide band clamps to use instead. Along with that, I also ordered new AC Delco Gaskets, Permatex ultra copper RTV, ARP header bolts, and O2 wire extensions. My $390 headers quickly became a $600+ project.

After unboxing the headers, I was disappointed to see that both of the collectors were heavily dented at the very end, the "merge spike" was a good bit off center on one of the headers (I can't recall which side), and some of the primarys weren't centered in the flanges. Also, the gaskets they included were bent and ruined during shipping, as they are just thrown in the box with the pipes, but whatever, I wasn't going to use them anyways. I was able to use an exhaust pipe expander and get the caved in part of the collector back to round, and I tried my best to just look past all of the other flaws and get to work on installing them.

It's after 5am (at the time of writing this), and I've just called it quits on installing these damn things about 2 hours ago, as I've been working on installing them since about 7pm yesterday. After a broken dipstick, all 6 manifold to h-pipe flange bolts broken, a few ripped spark plug wires, and a couple of the old header bolts forever lost somewhere in the engine bay after I dropped them and never heard them hit the ground... I finally have both headers bolted up and torqued to spec. Sounds great right? Not so much. The passenger side header rests directly against an AC line, I managed to bend the line a little bit, but there is no way to get it to not be in contact with the header that I can see. Even worse, the collector hits the metal shielding on the side wall below the torque tube. I can't install the clamp for the mid pipe unless I smash back the metal shielding with a hammer, though that wouldn't matter either, as the midpipe would still run directly into the wall and not meet up to the X-pipe at all. It's hard to explain, but basically, the entire passenger side header was improperly manufactured in such a way that it runs way too far to the right, causing it to hit things and prevent installation of the rest of the system. Or maybe it was bent, as those giant dents I mentioned earlier seem to imply they were dropped at some point, as I highly doubt they could get bent that bad during shipping. Either way, this entire system is now rendered useless, and my car will be on jack stands a lot longer than I expected.

I'm not sure what to do now except for to contact Speed Engineering and try to get a return or exchange. I'm uncertain whether I should stick with these headers or try another brand. I know the Speed Engineering headers are only $390, which seemed a bit too good to be true, but I've read the reviews, no one has seemed to have any issues like these before. As i said before, I'm now about $600+ into it after all of the extra parts that are pretty much required for the install. And about another $100 more if you consider the parts that were broken during removal of the stock system, whoops. I'm sorry if this seems like i'm just ranting, being up for 24 hours and going from super excited to install a new mod to disappointed when it doesn't fit properly certainly doesn't help. But I made this thread as a warning for those who are interested in these headers. Maybe I'm truly the first to have issues out of the hundreds of people who've purchased these, but as of now, I just can't recommend them. If you choose to purchase them anyways, just keep in mind that by the time you purchase all the necessary extra parts, you are going to end up spending about 50% more than you originally thought.

Anyways, hopefully Speed Engineering will fix the issues I'm having and make it right, one way or another.

 

Sorry you are having issues. I had literally none. I would have saved the money on the clamps and just had a muffler shop weld up the X pipe. You don't need the O2 extension. Yes, the AC line is close to the header and yes you can bend it a little. That line should already be heat wrapped. I put an extra piece on mine. The plug wires were going to be an issue no matter what brand header. As for the rubbing on the torque tube, make sure your collector extensions are fitted properly. They may need to be tweaked. Keep everything loose and line things up before you tighten them down. Also, pictures would help. Good luck

 

That sucks you got a bad set. Get what you pay for. I say that but I still won't pay the ARH/Kooks price. Hinson seems like a great middle ground. Double what you paid, but still half the cost of ARH/Kooks lol

 

​​​​​​Well, it was that the header was resting directly on the AC line, not just very close to it, it is heat wrapped, but it is so firmly pressed against it that I know it will cause issues. I did bend the line a little bit already, I had to just to get the header to bolt in properly. As far as the collector extensions, I assume you are talking about the the 2ft pipes that go from the collector to the X-pipe? I can barely slip them over the collector, as the pipe is too close to the channel wall, and I can't get the clamp on. Even then, the mid pipe runs way off track and into the wall. I will try to get some pictures here shortly before I yank them off.

Also, quick question for anyone willing to answer. Can I reuse the header gaskets after they have been torqued down and installed? I don't see why I couldn't, but would it be best just to order a new set?

 

Header collector hitting the channel wall.


I can manage to squeeze/wedge the next exhaust peice on, but then I run into this issue:

The pipe runs directly into this part of the exhaust channel. Keep in mind, this is with the header torqued down, and the midpipe peice slid over the collector with no clamp, as I can't even get the clamp in place. Even if I try to force the pipe to the side with no clamp on, I still can't clear this place where the channel wall comes inward.

A few other pics:






The AC line issue is really the least of my problems. Although I shouldn't have that issue to begin with, I could probably find a way around it. However, there is no simple way around the big issue with the pipe running way off track and hitting things. Sorry if the pics and angles aren't the greatest, I tried my best but my jackstands are almost maxed out and there isn't much room to hold my phone while laying on a creeper. I'm sure you guys can see the issue though, it's pretty obvious even in photos.

 

Given the $400 header purchase price I see you have 2 options:

1) Call up and hope you get someone to talk to and setup a shipment back to them for a refund and or a new set of headers. Who knows how long or painful that process will be. If it takes a month, you either put all the stock stuff back on and keep driving the car or it sits on jack stands until this is resolved.

2) Start hacking/denting/adjusting/re-welding. IMO I would MAKE the pipes fit the car rather than having the car fit the headers.

Goodluck!

 

Putting the stock system on would be a huge pain as of now, as I said, all 6 manifold to H-pipe flange bolts broke off, and I've also already removed the air pump system. I'm hoping I can get a replacement set. I ordered them from their fleaBay page, and I imagine an exchange would take about 1-2 weeks. Unless I buy an entire new set and then return these, which wouldn't be a big deal. I'm currently in contact with them through email now, they are saying I either installed them incorrectly (which definitely isn't the case) or that one of my motor mounts has failed and is causing the engine to tilt and push the pipes to the side. Which sounds like a logical reason, but I don't think that is the case either, as the driver's side header has about a half inch of clearance at the point opposite to where the passenger side is touching. If the a motor mount was failing, I feel that the gaps would be much bigger on the driver's side. Also, the stock system was perfectly aligned. Regardless, is there any way to check to make sure my mounts aren't failing?

I'm starting to consider the Hinson headers a bit more and more now. I've heard of some issues with them though. I still just find it odd that I seem to be the first to have issues with the Speed Engineering headers. The quality and fitment just isn't what everyone rants and raves about. I've even heard someone claim they are 9/10 of the popular headers such as LG, Kooks, ect offer. But at only 1/3rd of the price. To me, these seem like 1/3rd of the quality at 1/3rd of the price.

 

Man, I don't know. I had nothing like this with mine. I'm assuming you've been rotating the collector extensions to make them fit better? The AC line isn't an issue. Just pry it back a little. It'll be fine.

 

Yes, I have tried that as well. I also tried both extension pipes, the one with the wide band hole and the one without. Same issue.

Trying to issue a return now, also hoping to get around their 20% restocking fee and $40 return shipping. That would be a total of about $120 out of my pocket, along with the delay in the exchange and inconvenience overall. Hopefully, they will stand by their product and make it right.

Short Update: Speed Engineering said they will wave the restocking fee. They didn't mention return shipping, so I assume I will still have to pocket that. They also said that the headers are made using jigs and can't be manufactured any different than the original design. Although, I disagree, as I've noticed a few differences in the way the primarys aren't welded perfectly centered in the flange on the passenger side header compared to the drivers side or other pictures on the internet. They are claiming that any other brand header will run into the same issue. Again, I don't see how as the stock system was perfectly fine.

 

Yes it sucks, but this is the risk you take with $400 headers and mid pipe. Paying SW/ARH/Kooks price pretty much guarantees issues like this don't happen.

I for one will be going Hinson when the time comes. Buying the cheapest of any part can be a risk...as you are seeing. Would I buy these headers based off numerous people saying they fit great? Yes. BUT IF I had issues, the first thing I would say is "well they are still only $400". And proceed to dent/cut/re-weld to make them fit. I also have the tools and knowhow to rework them which is why I take that stance. I realize not everyone does.

However, I value fitment and not having to screw with this kind of stuff. There was a time where I wouldn't mind and proceed to modify. But lately, I want something to work the first time around while ALSO being mindful of cost.

Makes me think, I want to find a private party person who did back to back dyno testing of cheap headers and expensive versions to see EXACTLY what is to be gained. At the end of the day, all LT's will gain power whether they have a merge spike or not. All header companies for a specific car need to make headers fit the same packaging space so the bends are relatively the same. If the Kooks headers only make <10hp more than cheap headers and the cheap headers fit without much hassle, then Kooks price was not worth it.

All depends on what you put value on. Cost, fit, performance, all three or a combination of the three.

 

Oh and on the engine mount idea....look at them. If one is not as tall as the other one then it may be collapsed. Have someone rev the motor and if you feel like there is excessive movement then it may be bad. If I remember, C5 mounts are liquid filled??

 

 

Motor mounts could be collapsed. I would check that while you have the headers out. Mine were in good shape with 75,000 miles on them, but I replaced them with polyurethane units.

 

As far as I can tell, they aren't collapsed or anything. The rubber on them is slightly peeling but nothing bad at all. The engine doesn't move hardly at all either. If I recall correctly, they are filled with oil as well? If that is the case there is no signs of them leaking. How exactly can you tell if they are collapsing? I have another set of headers arriving tomorrow so hopefully they work.

 

Usually you will see thick crud around them if they leaked then collected dirt. If everything is dry but just dirty then I bet you are fine.

Let us know how the next set turns out. Did you keep the old set? If so I would compare them side by side and see if you can find the exact issue.

 

Update: New headers are on! Ordered a second set after arguing with Speed Engineering over the fitment issues, they claimed the headers are made with a jig and can't be manufactured incorrectly, and that if I exchanged them the new ones would have the same issue. They were wrong, I returned my old set and ordered another through Amazon. They fit as they should. The car is currently at the shop right now having the clamps that leak removed welded up, as well as having the muffler bypass mod done to the stock axleback. So far I am somewhat satisfied with the headers, they aren't perfect, but for the price they aren't too bad. Not sure if I can really recommend them. But if anyone reading this plans on installing these headers, don't assume you will spend $385 for the headers and xpipe and be done with it. After buying everything else needee, the total cost will be closer to $550 - $600.

 

Where did you buy the first set from? I have heard there were several versions. I bought mine on Ebay direct from SE and had zero fitment. I had my xpipe welded up too. I'm in for about 550 total. Still a big savings over 'brand names'. Time will tell if they hold up but they sound good!

 

That's a good point. If the OP bought them from some obscure supplier, and got a "first generation" set, it could account for his issues. You would think, however, that SE would have been aware of this, and told that to the OP.....unless, of course, they didn't want to admit to allowing any ill-fitting sets getting out to the public....

 

I'm looking at this same setup minus the NPP mufflers.

How do you like it after having it for a few months with the Diablo Intune on it?

Do you have more heat in the console?

Does it feel like it runs stronger after the headers and X-pipe?

Would you do anything different if you did it again?

Thanks for the details and write up.

 

I think you're talking to the OP but I'll give you my .02c I have not noticed any significant temperature increase in the console. Hard to tell on the sit of your pants dyno, but the sound definitely made it feel faster. Would absolutely purchase these again.