FlowKooler Hi-Flow Water Pump
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Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
FlowKooler Hi-Flow Water Pump
I was asking last week about flow direction of the engine cooling system in the LS1 because I wanted to make sure I had all my facts right.
I purchased and fitted a FlowKooler Hi-Flow Mechanical Water Pump only to find it does not in fact work as well as the stock pump. A couple of degrees hotter at highway speed and FIVE degrees hotter at idle in traffic. Even in colder weather.
I will be re-fitting the original pump in the near future.
I purchased and fitted a FlowKooler Hi-Flow Mechanical Water Pump only to find it does not in fact work as well as the stock pump. A couple of degrees hotter at highway speed and FIVE degrees hotter at idle in traffic. Even in colder weather.
I will be re-fitting the original pump in the near future.
Last edited by roppa440; Oct 24, 2018 at 06:06 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Boulder Creek California
Why did you think you needed more coolant flow? Do you have something exotic going on under the hood or driving somewhere scorching? (Newcastle, so I assume not!) If it's not boiling coolant, cooler temps aren't going to improve anything. I'd look at the radiator or fans first if more cooling is in fact needed, especially at low speed, as the airside is likely the bigger bottleneck.
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From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Why did you think you needed more coolant flow? Do you have something exotic going on under the hood or driving somewhere scorching? (Newcastle, so I assume not!) If it's not boiling coolant, cooler temps aren't going to improve anything. I'd look at the radiator or fans first if more cooling is in fact needed, especially at low speed, as the airside is likely the bigger bottleneck.
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From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Truth is that the original radiator and fans do work. I am running a 180F thermostat.
When sitting in traffic and the temp goes up over 190F all I have to do is stick the trans in neutral and increase the rpms to 1500 rpm. The temperature comes straight back down. So a pump that was actually more efficient at idle, which is what I thought I was buying, would have done the trick.
The water temp never gets below 183F no matter how cold the weather which is probably where the 'stat is stable. But at 70+ mph cruise the water temp usually hangs around the 185F mark. Oil temp runs about 192F at that point. Which is fine because obviously it needs to be hotter to burn off any condensation in the block.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: San Jose, CA
A DeWitt's rad + SPAL fan setup will fit under the stock shroud, as near to plug and play as you can generally get, and nobody will see the difference.
They'll hear it though. Those fans sound like a little jet engine. Actually louder than my exhaust at hot idle.
They'll hear it though. Those fans sound like a little jet engine. Actually louder than my exhaust at hot idle.
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From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
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From: Newcastle Upon Tyne
I just looked up the Dewitts 1139101A radiator. $650. With me being in the UK it will cost me twice that delivered to my door plus taxes.
So I will have to save up for that one and try it with the stock fans to see how it goes. Maybe an early birthday present for my 60th next year. ;-)
So I will have to save up for that one and try it with the stock fans to see how it goes. Maybe an early birthday present for my 60th next year. ;-)
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: San Jose, CA
IIRC they draw the same current - or at least, they draw under the fuse amperage.
Now, with radiators, you do have options. Others sell a similarly plug-and-play radiator, some for less money. There are even ~$200 ebay units that some report good success with.
SPAL fans though I think are the under-appreciated hero of this upgrade. A lot of companies can make a double-core radiator with more fluid capacity and thus (unless very poorly designed) more cooling capacity / heat rejection ability, with dimensions to fit where the stock one fits. But the fans really, really draw a _ton_ more air. Like double the airflow / cfm in the same space, with stock shroud, stock harness plug, stock electronics, etc.
$400 though. Plus shipping. Tough.
Now, with radiators, you do have options. Others sell a similarly plug-and-play radiator, some for less money. There are even ~$200 ebay units that some report good success with.
SPAL fans though I think are the under-appreciated hero of this upgrade. A lot of companies can make a double-core radiator with more fluid capacity and thus (unless very poorly designed) more cooling capacity / heat rejection ability, with dimensions to fit where the stock one fits. But the fans really, really draw a _ton_ more air. Like double the airflow / cfm in the same space, with stock shroud, stock harness plug, stock electronics, etc.
$400 though. Plus shipping. Tough.