Replace or hold??: Lifters and oil pump
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 144
From: Miami
Replace or hold??: Lifters and oil pump
Hi forum,
I’m on a crossroad and I wanted to pass this by the forum before deciding. I’m upgrading my cam to a mild Jegs .585/.585 and along with this comes dual valve springs, titanium retainers, gaskets, harmonic balancer...etc. These are some of the non negotiable items that come with the upgrade and come in the “must do while you’re in there”. However, what seems to be optional and preferential is to replace the lifters again with just fresh OEM hydraulic rollers and replacing the oil pump for a high volume Melling unit.
My rational and cost effective mindset is that I should save from replacing those items because at 90k miles I have very strong oil pressure readings and zero valvetrain lifter noise.
What do you guys think? Is there data to back this up or should I bite the bullet and replace lifters and oil pump for insurance?
I’m on a crossroad and I wanted to pass this by the forum before deciding. I’m upgrading my cam to a mild Jegs .585/.585 and along with this comes dual valve springs, titanium retainers, gaskets, harmonic balancer...etc. These are some of the non negotiable items that come with the upgrade and come in the “must do while you’re in there”. However, what seems to be optional and preferential is to replace the lifters again with just fresh OEM hydraulic rollers and replacing the oil pump for a high volume Melling unit.
My rational and cost effective mindset is that I should save from replacing those items because at 90k miles I have very strong oil pressure readings and zero valvetrain lifter noise.
What do you guys think? Is there data to back this up or should I bite the bullet and replace lifters and oil pump for insurance?
Last edited by turabo87; Dec 12, 2018 at 01:18 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,049
Likes: 316
From: USA
Personally I would do the oil pump while I was there... it's right there, super easy to swap and parts cost is small compared to the work involved in the cam swap. If you want a small 'upgrade' on the oil pump, check out the melling standard volume high pressure pump 10295 i think is the PN.
Lifters on the other hand would require pulling the heads, which is going to add a lot more work (I spent a ton of time cleaning the bolt holes, gasket surface, all while bent over in a non comfortable position). I would skip on the lifters unless you are porting or replacing the heads too.
Lifters on the other hand would require pulling the heads, which is going to add a lot more work (I spent a ton of time cleaning the bolt holes, gasket surface, all while bent over in a non comfortable position). I would skip on the lifters unless you are porting or replacing the heads too.
Last edited by aaronc7; Dec 12, 2018 at 01:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 144
From: Miami
Ok, but if I do change the oil pump, do I go for the higher volume Melling or OEM spec pressure/volume? Like I said, I have zero oil pressure issues. Oil pressure profile is mighty strong right now, and motor is at 90k miles.
Last edited by turabo87; Dec 12, 2018 at 02:04 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 28
Likes: 4
No reason not to replace the oil pump and timing chain while your literally right there. Ive used the Melling 10295 as Aaronc7 stated above and the basic LS2 chain in multiple LS builds with no issues. Also might want to invest in the rocker arm trunion upgrade as well. LS1 rockers are known to spew out their needle bearings and with 90k on yours it would be a sound investment. You can buy the kit and install them yourself or a few companies (BTR, Michigan Motorsports) sell already upgraded rockers with a small core charge. I personally have always used the Michigan motorsports kits for $199 with the comp cams or BTR trunion upgrade already done.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,049
Likes: 316
From: USA
The 10295 is basically a stock size pump but comes with a higher bypass spring. So expect similar oil pressure in most of the rpm range, just a little more (10 psi?) pressure in the upper rpms under wide open throttle. I don't think you need/want to go to a physically larger geared oil pump if if's still a stock engine with oem bearing clearances and such.
I also did the LS2 chain and rocker arm upgrade when I swapped my cam.
I also did the LS2 chain and rocker arm upgrade when I swapped my cam.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Lifers are probably fine at that mileage but cheap enough (if it were me) Id replace them.
Cant see any reason to replace the oil pump. Not a fan of high volume pumps unless you run more clearance. Its just not needed, opinions will vary
after 182k still have 42psi hot on the original pump .Thats way more than it needs.
Cant see any reason to replace the oil pump. Not a fan of high volume pumps unless you run more clearance. Its just not needed, opinions will vary
after 182k still have 42psi hot on the original pump .Thats way more than it needs.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 144
From: Miami
The 10295 is basically a stock size pump but comes with a higher bypass spring. So expect similar oil pressure in most of the rpm range, just a little more (10 psi?) pressure in the upper rpms under wide open throttle. I don't think you need/want to go to a physically larger geared oil pump if if's still a stock engine with oem bearing clearances and such.
I also did the LS2 chain and rocker arm upgrade when I swapped my cam.
I also did the LS2 chain and rocker arm upgrade when I swapped my cam.
Last edited by turabo87; Dec 26, 2018 at 09:55 AM. Reason: added info
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 494
Likes: 138
From: Chesapeake, VA
It's funny how I started with the "budget build and cutting corners" mentality, and ended up now with the "I'm gonna hate myself if this gives me problems later on, let's change it while I'm there" mentality. I bought the 10295 oil pump, LS2 chain, and LS7 lifters and trays. I ended up getting the lifters because my strategy for the build changed and I'm going to end up taking the heads out anyways. I learned that the methods to safely change the valve springs without removing the heads is actually a major PITA and slower process than just taking the heads out and changing the springs outside. So I bit the bullet with new lifters and trays too.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3,769
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From: Orlando Florida
I haven't done it yet, but it sure seems centering the oil pump can be tricky at times -- with good pressure I would be severely tempted to leave well enough alone. Both high pressure and high volume come at a HP cost.
But if it blows up, I will be saying something to the effect of 'sure glad it isn't mine'...
But if it blows up, I will be saying something to the effect of 'sure glad it isn't mine'...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 144
From: Miami
I haven't done it yet, but it sure seems centering the oil pump can be tricky at times -- with good pressure I would be severely tempted to leave well enough alone. Both high pressure and high volume come at a HP cost.
But if it blows up, I will be saying something to the effect of 'sure glad it isn't mine'...
But if it blows up, I will be saying something to the effect of 'sure glad it isn't mine'...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 144
From: Miami
Lol, no harm done. I got Melling PN 10295, which has stock volume but relief pressure spring is higher for about 10-15 psi more up top.
Uneducated autodidact
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,413
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From: West of the Sabine, Texas
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pu...amp-p-642.html
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 788
Likes: 105
From: Olathe Kansas
I did my spring change with heads on... Was Way Easier than I thought it would be.... But, If you are taking the heads of anyway.. then
of course do it while theyre off..
But I wouldn't go thru the work of removing the Heads Just to Do Valvesprings...Easy enough on the engine.
Just my 2 Cents
of course do it while theyre off..
But I wouldn't go thru the work of removing the Heads Just to Do Valvesprings...Easy enough on the engine.
Just my 2 Cents
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 144
From: Miami
I just thought I would provide an update and maybe some closure to my thread (you guys are welcome to keep commenting though). I took the heads off to change the valvesprings more comfortably and permitted me to change the lifters. I went with genuine OEM LS7 lifters and trays. New oil pump went in too (10295 with its 10% higher pressure spring) and a new LS2 chain. That's about it. My LS1 didn't come with a damper and I left it as is. The work is done already and cylinder heads are back on the motor torqued and everything.