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Pardon me if this has been asked before, but I can't really find a straight answer with my searching. I have a 2005 C5Z with 62K on it. I have nitrous on the car so naturally the stock clutch is done. I currently have the car up on jack stands and have started the process of removing the torque tube and rear end so that i can replace the clutch. I am trying to find out if it is necessary to replace the master cylinder or not. I am going to replace the slave since it is so hard to get to, but should i also replace the master? or is it not necessary? My thought was to leave the stocker in and see how it goes. It if seems to still cause the sticking pedal thing.....i can replace it with a tick master since you dont have to pull the whole car apart again to get to it.
one more question -- I am probably making about 570 RWHP or so on the 150 shot. Should i go with a Monster stage 3 or a spec stage 3+? Im on a budget so these 2 are really the only 2 that seem affordable enough for me and will hold my power.
I would get a Tick, now, since they are on sale.
Get a Katech remote bleeder, which is most important for keeping the fluid fresh.
Use Castrol SRF brake fluid.
These pieces will make your clutch happy and last longer.
Spaggs
Be aware that the clutch is rated to protect the rest of the drive train. I learned the hard way with a Mustang. Goes something like this:
Upgrade engine, then clutch goes out.
Upgrade clutch, then transmission blows up.
Upgrade transmission, then diff blows up.
I recall many years ago on this forum discussing the transmission torque ratings. Just something to keep in mind.
Oh I'm well aware of that.....I came from an 03 cobra that I nodded and had the same results. That's part of the fun. I had the transmission out 2 times in 1 month in my garage in jack stands replacing things that had failed.
Our clutch packages dont include the master as it is a separate job than the clutch install. Around 40% that come in for clutch add either a new stock master or Tick. The other 60% let it go until it shows an issue and just pay to replace then. You dont really save much time doing it with the clutch install.
Make sure you do change the slave cylinder and pilot bearing while your in there. Also add a remote bleeder. We like to pull the TT apart while its out and inspect the couplers and bearings. Parts are not much for the TT if you catch them before they come apart.
Horsepower addicts, thanks for the help!! i will do as you suggest and replace the TOB and the slave while im in there. I also will do the remote bleeder because i know that is a must!