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Guys, I took my wheel off to see if I'm capable or removing the rotors. It looks like I just unbolt the caliper and the rotor comes off, Right?
Thanks, ART
Guys, I took my wheel off to see if I'm capable or removing the rotors. It looks like I just unbolt the caliper and the rotor comes off, Right?
Thanks, ART
Yes - if all goes well. However, a number of people have had problems getting the front ones off because of corrosion where the rotor bonded to the hub. In my case, the front ones came off fine but I had a hard time with the rears. A little Liquid Wrench where the rotor meets the hub does wonders - and maybe a rubber mallet. :smash: :smash:
:cheers:
If you have corrosion around the hub make sure you clean it off before you replace the rotor. The corrosion can keep the rotor from seating properly and you get the dreaded brake thumping.
Bill
Yep. that is all there is to it. I replaced my rotors while the car was going through its color change and I had no problem getting them off at all. They pretty much just "fell off" in my hands. :yesnod:
Technically, you must remove the capaper bracket in order to remove the rotors. It is possible to remove only the calapers from the bracket, but that will not allow you to remove the rotors. The calapers are held onto the bracket with the smaller 15mm bolts, while the bracket is held onto the hub assembly with the larger 20 or 21mm bolts (I can't remember the exact size). If you remove the two larger bolts, the entire bracket/calaper assembly can easily be removed. The only thing you must do before removal of the assembly is to compress the calaper piston back into the calaper so it will slide off the rotor easily. :cool:
The rotor is held onto the hub by the wheel and lug nuts; once the wheel is removed, the rotor can be 'wiggled' on the hub. After the caliper and caliper bracket are removed, the rotor should just pop right off. The hardest part is the two LARGE bolts that secure the caliper bracket to the hub; I used an impact wrench to remove these, but a breaker bar should also do the trick. Be sure to torque these correctly when reinstalling them.
The rotor is held onto the hub by the wheel and lug nuts; once the wheel is removed, the rotor can be 'wiggled' on the hub. After the caliper and caliper bracket are removed, the rotor should just pop right off. The hardest part is the two LARGE bolts that secure the caliper bracket to the hub; I used an impact wrench to remove these, but a breaker bar should also do the trick. Be sure to torque these correctly when reinstalling them.
Don't forget to clean threads and apply loctite before reinstalling. :cheers:
............ The only thing you must do before removal of the assembly is to compress the calaper piston back into the calaper so it will slide off the rotor easily.
How do you compress the caliper? Is there a tool to do that? Any tricks to putting putting the calipers back on? Again, don't they have to be compressed?
I compress the pistons back into the calapers by using a large "C" clamp, which you can buy at Sears or Home Depot. You place one end of the "C" clamp at the back side of the calaper and the movable clamping pad on the outer brake pad and screw the clamp closed as far as possible. This will push the pistons into the calaper body and allow the rotor to spin freely on the hub, and the removal of the calaper/bracked assembly after you have removed the 2 large bolts which hold the bracket to the hub assembly.
After changing the rotor and reinstalling the calaper/bracket assemblies to their proper positions (make sure the brake pads are good and in the proper position also), then by applying you brakes several times, this will push the brake pads back into their normal working position. DO NOT apply the brakes if any of the calapers are NOT in their normal working positions. If you do, the pistons of the uninstalled calapers will be pushed out of their bores and brake fluid will go flying everywhere.
Be sure you follow the advice others have given here about proper torque, lock tite, etc. If you're not sure how to do these things, it would be best to get some help, the first time through, from someone who has done a calaper change a few times. :cool:
Also make sure you use a torque wrench. Life is much easier with one. Removing the bolts that hold the rotors in place are difficult, I had to hit it a couple of times to get it off.
Also get some loctite to apply to the bolts when you put them back on. I did not do that to one of my rotors and probably forgot to torque it down correctly, well two days later my caliper was loose and scraped the inside of my wheel very good, lost the bolt had to buy one for $6.00 from the dealer which I had to drive 35 miles to get it. Not a fun experience.
Take your time and double check your work. It is easy work just a little time consuming. Let us know if you more questions. :cheers:
Also get some loctite to apply to the bolts when you put them back on. I did not do that to one of my rotors and probably forgot to torque it down correctly, well two days later my caliper was loose and scraped the inside of my wheel very good, lost the bolt had to buy one for $6.00 from the dealer which I had to drive 35 miles to get it. Not a fun experience.
anybody know what color of loctite is the correct one to use?
anybody know what color of loctite is the correct one to use?
anybody know what is the correct torque specs?
I used red and applied to three threads nearest head of bolt.
Torque specs per Service Manual is 125 lb. ft.,.
BTW on rear brackets apply breaker bar from underneath for max leverage. :cheers:
piece of cake to do. make sure you have a breaker bar and a torque wrench. i did mine in a couple of hrs. didn't use loctite and had no problems. 125 ft. lbs. of torque will hold them on. take your time, and enjoy your new rotors. :cheers: