C5 clutch master cylinder replace
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 65
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From: Upper Montclair New Jersey
C5 clutch master cylinder replace
Hi,
Do you know if it is nessisary to lift the car in order to replace the clutch master cylinder?
The instructions I found to do this job are as follows:
"The stock MC is frighteningly easy to replace. 30 minutes? You don't even need tools.
Just push the nylon release collar in to separate the master and slave lines. (there's a tool for this, but I've done them by hand before)
Pop the retainer off the pivot pin under the dash
Push the pivot pin out
Rotate clutch MC 90° CW (or is it CCW? you'll figure it out) to release it from the firewall
Pull it out through the engine bay
Reverse the above with new MC to install"
Do I need to remove the windshield washer fluid jug to reach the MC from above? Or can I turn the tires Left and open the drivers side wheel well compartment to reach the MC from inside? The car is on steep driveway and it’s not really possible to jack it up, I’m hoping I can do this job without lifting the car.
Thanks for any advise
Do you know if it is nessisary to lift the car in order to replace the clutch master cylinder?
The instructions I found to do this job are as follows:
"The stock MC is frighteningly easy to replace. 30 minutes? You don't even need tools.
Just push the nylon release collar in to separate the master and slave lines. (there's a tool for this, but I've done them by hand before)
Pop the retainer off the pivot pin under the dash
Push the pivot pin out
Rotate clutch MC 90° CW (or is it CCW? you'll figure it out) to release it from the firewall
Pull it out through the engine bay
Reverse the above with new MC to install"
Do I need to remove the windshield washer fluid jug to reach the MC from above? Or can I turn the tires Left and open the drivers side wheel well compartment to reach the MC from inside? The car is on steep driveway and it’s not really possible to jack it up, I’m hoping I can do this job without lifting the car.
Thanks for any advise
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,258
Likes: 543
From: Appleton WI
The removal description you provided seems a bit simplistic and I call BS on no tools. You would need some pretty strong fingers to compress the quick connect. I believe you need to access under the dash so removing the close-out requires tools.
I had to remove my pedals because I installed a TICK master so I had to access under the dash. Removing the seat helped with performing the work but is optional. As for jacking up the car, I did. Not sure you can gain access any other way. Going through the wheel well might be an option but you would still need to remove the wheel.
The job isn't hard. Maybe borrow a friend's driveway for a couple of hours or find a parking lot. You could bench bleed the new master cylinder before leaving home so it is plug and play.
I had to remove my pedals because I installed a TICK master so I had to access under the dash. Removing the seat helped with performing the work but is optional. As for jacking up the car, I did. Not sure you can gain access any other way. Going through the wheel well might be an option but you would still need to remove the wheel.
The job isn't hard. Maybe borrow a friend's driveway for a couple of hours or find a parking lot. You could bench bleed the new master cylinder before leaving home so it is plug and play.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 369
Likes: 59
From: North Georgia
No tools? That sounds like a dream come true. But it is most definitely not the case. Like 3sACROUD said, you need a quick disconnect tool, for one and then you need tools to dismantle the cover in the left front wheel well. I too installed a Tick and had to drill two new holes to install the mechanism. The dead pedal has to be removed as well as the whole clutch pedal. I took off the windshield washer sensor so I could gain better access. Get a b bucket so you can catch the fluid. There is a lot of fluid. There is a good YouTube video on how to do this and is pretty complete. No tools, who told you that? Must be a better wrencher than I am.
Good luck.
Spaggs
Good luck.
Spaggs
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 65
Likes: 3
From: Upper Montclair New Jersey
I straightened this pin but it’s stuck.. I sprayed WD40 on it.. it seems fragile if it breaks it’s gonna be harder to get out. I haven’t seen the quick disconnect thing, I’m not sure where that is or if I need that. It seems if I can disconnect it at the pin thing the new one would fit in, right?
I have the clutch peddle disconnected from it on the inside.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 214
Likes: 26
I agree with 3sACROWD, Spaggs and Pounder, that quick disconnect is a real B**** to remove and reinstall, I believe its quite impossible to do from up top because of the quick disconnect alone. Also I hope your MC is prefilled and doesn't need any bleeding or else you're in for a hell of an install. Highly recommend bench bleeding if you're reusing the reservoir. If your MC is oem you don't need to remove the pedals, but you will need some tools, to jack the car up, JACK STANDS, remove the wheel, remove the small 7-8mm screws holding the wheel well cover, also a flat head screw driver to remove the clip holding the MC rod to the clutch pedal.
Last edited by jimmyLSX; Dec 27, 2018 at 09:12 PM.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 65
Likes: 3
From: Upper Montclair New Jersey
I have the windshield washer fluid jug removed, I had to replace the motor in that too. I could probably twist the MC out if I could figure out how to disconnect it where that pin thing is. The new MC didn’t come with the metal pin thing, just a small metal tube about a half inch, I’m not sure how that’s supposed to stay in there.
I have the clutch fluid container emptied and cleaned.
Also the battery is almost dead, car won’t start now so I gotta try to get it recharged soon.
Car is on steep driveway, I don’t have a jack or stands.
I have the clutch fluid container emptied and cleaned.
Also the battery is almost dead, car won’t start now so I gotta try to get it recharged soon.
Car is on steep driveway, I don’t have a jack or stands.
Last edited by ckreider33; Dec 27, 2018 at 09:15 PM.
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Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 214
Likes: 26
The quick disconnections circled, together they should be right below by the side of the driver side header, it seems the MC you bought doesnt come with the slave line and requires you to remove the one from the old MC to be installed on the new MC, thats a real pita because you need a pin of the same size to tap it out, connect to the new one with a new little oring seal and tap the pin back in to hold the line.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 214
Likes: 26
I highly recommend if you haven't disassembled your old MC to just reinstall it so the car can be driven and then be properly lifted to do this job properly, or easiest disconnecting the entire line, purchase an OEM MC GM part number 12564455 this will include everything as pictured above so you just have to remove the old one and install the new one and not have to bleed, the one you bought would require you to bleed it out properly to get all the air out of the MC or else you won't be able to get into any gear while on and then be you'll really be SOL.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 65
Likes: 3
From: Upper Montclair New Jersey
The new MC came with a little half inch tube pin.. maybe that’s used to get the pin out?
Im not worried about bleeding it.. once it’s installed I’ll fill the clutch reservoir and use a mityvac bleeding kit, it should get all air out.
If I absolutely must jack the car up the only option I have is to try to tow it to the dealer and let them screw me.
Im not worried about bleeding it.. once it’s installed I’ll fill the clutch reservoir and use a mityvac bleeding kit, it should get all air out.
If I absolutely must jack the car up the only option I have is to try to tow it to the dealer and let them screw me.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 214
Likes: 26
The new MC came with a little half inch tube pin.. maybe that’s used to get the pin out?
Thats probably the one to hold the slave line in the new MC, did it come with a small little circle plastic gasket?(it would go between the line and mc)
that would mean you would only need to disconnect the line from the old MC, then install into the new MC and tap that pin in to hold the line. I would do as Pounder suggested and use channel lock pliers to remove the wire pin on the collar of the old MC holding the line.
Im not worried about bleeding it.. once it’s installed I’ll fill the clutch reservoir and use a mityvac bleeding kit, it should get all air out.
That works too just can't over do it on the pressure or you'll damage the seals in the mc.
If I absolutely must jack the car up the only option I have is to try to tow it to the Stealership and let them screw me.
Hopefully not, It's hard nowadays coming across competent techs who take pride in their work.
Thats probably the one to hold the slave line in the new MC, did it come with a small little circle plastic gasket?(it would go between the line and mc)
that would mean you would only need to disconnect the line from the old MC, then install into the new MC and tap that pin in to hold the line. I would do as Pounder suggested and use channel lock pliers to remove the wire pin on the collar of the old MC holding the line.
Im not worried about bleeding it.. once it’s installed I’ll fill the clutch reservoir and use a mityvac bleeding kit, it should get all air out.
That works too just can't over do it on the pressure or you'll damage the seals in the mc.
If I absolutely must jack the car up the only option I have is to try to tow it to the Stealership and let them screw me.
Hopefully not, It's hard nowadays coming across competent techs who take pride in their work.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 65
Likes: 3
From: Upper Montclair New Jersey
Yes i have the small little circle plastic gasket and a little tube thing that came with the new MC. So you think the tube thing is to replace the pin that is holding the original one in? Ok.
I have to look into acquiring some channel lock pliers. That pin will break if I keep messing with it without a proper tool.
I have to look into acquiring some channel lock pliers. That pin will break if I keep messing with it without a proper tool.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 65
Likes: 3
From: Upper Montclair New Jersey
I think I want to try to twist the MC out while it’s still connected to the slave line. It might let me get better leverage to pull the pin out with the channel lock pliers.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,258
Likes: 543
From: Appleton WI
I think I have a better understanding on what you mean regarding not needing to jack up the car. If you're planning on keeping the line from the bottom of the master cylinder down to the slave cylinder, you won't need to jack up the car.
As for the pin, since it seems stuck you may want to try pushing it out the other side. I don't remember if that is a cotter pin or a roll pin.
As for the pin, since it seems stuck you may want to try pushing it out the other side. I don't remember if that is a cotter pin or a roll pin.
1/4 mile/AutoX
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,441
Likes: 2,185
From: Buffalo Texas
I think I have a better understanding on what you mean regarding not needing to jack up the car. If you're planning on keeping the line from the bottom of the master cylinder down to the slave cylinder, you won't need to jack up the car.
As for the pin, since it seems stuck you may want to try pushing it out the other side. I don't remember if that is a cotter pin or a roll pin.
As for the pin, since it seems stuck you may want to try pushing it out the other side. I don't remember if that is a cotter pin or a roll pin.
Last edited by Pounder; Dec 28, 2018 at 08:31 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 65
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From: Upper Montclair New Jersey
Oh I see, the little hollow pin is a roll pin and that wire through it is a cotter pin.
The new MC didn’t come with a new cotter pin only the roll pin, I hope I can get the cotter pin out in one piece so I can reuse it, im getting channel lock pliers tomorrow and I’ll try then. *edit* On second thought I’ll just buy a new cotter pin.
Thanks everyone for all your advice, very much appreciated!
The new MC didn’t come with a new cotter pin only the roll pin, I hope I can get the cotter pin out in one piece so I can reuse it, im getting channel lock pliers tomorrow and I’ll try then. *edit* On second thought I’ll just buy a new cotter pin.
Thanks everyone for all your advice, very much appreciated!
Last edited by ckreider33; Dec 29, 2018 at 12:48 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 65
Likes: 3
From: Upper Montclair New Jersey
I did the MC replacement today, it went good, test drive was a success, clutch feels solid. I used a Mityvac to bleed it and that worked great.
After the MC was fixed I had electrical problems, the car wouldn’t start, so I replaced battery and that fixed it.. the old battery was 3years 6months old 78-AGP.
My next project I need to look at is the Ebreak handle, it seems the cable got unlatched and when I pull the handle it feels tight like the wire got wedged in there.
After the MC was fixed I had electrical problems, the car wouldn’t start, so I replaced battery and that fixed it.. the old battery was 3years 6months old 78-AGP.
My next project I need to look at is the Ebreak handle, it seems the cable got unlatched and when I pull the handle it feels tight like the wire got wedged in there.
Last edited by ckreider33; Dec 31, 2018 at 09:07 AM.