On my 99 suddenly the key will not turn. I've read the posts on replacing/repairing the ignition switch, but I haven't seen any advice for how to remove the cylinder or the switch if you can't turn the key. It appears you need to turn the key to 'on' to remove the cylinder, and turn the key to 'on' to remove the park/lock cable from the switch.
Can anyone help me with this problem?

 

From the 2001 FSM !!

 

Thanks, but this only works if the key will turn....mine will not.
Any ideas?

 

You can:
1) try drilling it out
b) locksmith
3) replacing lock cylinder then have some new keys made.

** IS IT THE RIGHT KEY YOU ARE USING ???? **....try another key !!

 

Thanks.
Tried both daily key and spare with no success.
I'm already convinced to change both the lock cylinder and switch, but now the issue is removing the park/shift cable from the existing switch so I can replace the switch.
As far as I see, you cannot disconnect the cable without the key turned to 'on', but key won't turn.
Any other ideas how to disconnect the park/shift cable?

 

If this was me and before doing any replacement parts, I would try everything non invasive such as using spraying electrical cleaning fluid in the switch. Also, if you have a key that does not have the chip, heat it very hot and insert it back and forth many times. Another one, lightly tap the key head while it is inserted. Just some stuff that I have used successfully in getting the switch to work in other cars having similar issues. Hope you can get it working.

 

I would try a spray lubricant that is made specially for locks, it seems that one of the tumblers inside your ignition switch cylinder is preventing the key from turning. I would also suggest a light tapping on the key with a plastic hammer while trying to turn the key at the same time. Had this problem recently on my 2007.5 D max truck, but it was simply a worn out key. Good Luck.

 

My VATS sensor (which reads the pellet in the key) was shot and I needed a new lock cylinder. Found a used but good Ignition Switch with key, Park lock cable and plastic front bezel. The VATS sensor with the small cable wrapped around the front of the cylinder just has contacts to rub against the pellet in the key and does not have any resistance in it. I knew that I wanted to keep the existing key and pellet so I called a half dozen locksmiths and they wanted over $100 some as much as $200 just to rekey the cylinder. Found out that my original dealer wanted $25 to rekey the cylinder.
Now skip to the present. Had weird no start conditions pointing to the TAC. Replaced that but still had no start just crank. Problem was the Ignition Switch electrical part, the plastic rear of the switch. The junk yard one lasted for 10 or so years but now the electrical part had failed.
Got my original switch and prepared to remove the cylinder and swap out the electrical plastic part. Tried the key. NO TURN. You are right you need to turn the cylinder innerds to on to remove the cylinder and park lock cable. Finally had to drill out center portion of the cylinder being careful not to wreck the back part. In your case you can leave the switch in the dash after you spend an hour or so taking out the console, ash tray,and dash panels, and then drill out the cylinder just enough to get a large flat blade screwdriver in the hole you drilled to rotate the cylinder. Once done then remove the 2 screws holding the switch to the dash, move the cylinder with the large screwdriver to on, and depress the release tangs on both the cylinder as shown on the diagram posted above and also in the park lock cable. Several entire assemblies are listed now on Fleebay. Pick one, Get the cylinder rekeyed at the cheapest place you can find to your existing VATS key, then move the wires from the back (white and black connector), VATS cable which is a small cable with only 2 wires and is partially wrapped around the front of the cylinder, and the park lock cable. Will be a PITA but you can do it.
HINT: use your smartphone camera to take pictures of the VATS cable and anything else that will help you remember how the whole thing goes back together. It took me almost 10 minutes to get the darn plastic front bezel on without breaking the micro fine tabs.
Also do all of thus AFTER REMOVING the BATTERY CABLE so you don't wind up shorting things out should a wire ground out.

 

Thanks bighank.
You've comments confirm what I thought, and now I'm off to do it.
You'd think there was an easier backdoor way to handle the situation if the key won't turn the cylinder!