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If you don't want to break the other bolts, or pull the manifold -- and I wouldn't want to, they make clamps just for the situation you have. Might or might not fit in the area, but might be worth a shot.
Take the manifold off not such a big deal. Find a machine shop with EDM capability and have the broken studs burnt out and retapped. If your gonna do do it right. Or just take everything off and put on some headers.
You should be able to turn all of the studs out once you finish removing the center section. May have to grind a wrench to get it to fit since the nut is flared, or try vice grips. Also I don't try to remove any exhaust fastener without heat, it really helps with the heavily corroded exhaust stuff. I like to use MAPP gas, burns a little hotter than propane, but propane will probably do. Good luck! Smart thing to take a break during these situations lol.
You should be able to turn all of the studs out once you finish removing the center section. May have to grind a wrench to get it to fit since the nut is flared, or try vice grips. Also I don't try to remove any exhaust fastener without heat, it really helps with the heavily corroded exhaust stuff. I like to use MAPP gas, burns a little hotter than propane, but propane will probably do. Good luck! Smart thing to take a break during these situations lol.
Are you saying grind wrench to be more thin to fit that nut at the top?
I did try a open wrench and it was too thick, but I could try grinding.
Are you saying grind wrench to be more thin to fit that nut at the top?
I did try a open wrench and it was too thick, but I could try grinding.
Yep! harbor freight wrenches are the best tool for that particular job. Once your center section is out of the way it will be easier to work up there. Defiantly try some heat on any other fasteners you still have to remove, it makes the job go much smoother! Also, after I break an exhaust nut loose I like to work it back and forth while it's still hot, before backing it all the way off. If you get it part way off and it starts to turn hard again, time for more heat!
I will try that, I have a small propane torch, and a turbo torch that uses acetylene and sucks air through torch, has a hose, used to use it for brazing for HVAC work.
Saw a video on YouTube where guys use heat and candle wax, and some pliers that have a different bite to grab onto the threaded part of bolt.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cTRUXRv2HFs
Last edited by 1999corvettels1; Jan 1, 2019 at 10:49 PM.
I will try that, I have a small propane torch, and a turbo torch that uses acetylene and sucks air through torch, has a hose, used to use it for brazing for HVAC work.
Saw a video on YouTube where guys use heat and candle wax, and some pliers that have a different bite to grab onto the threaded part of bolt.
That's really interesting about the candlewax, sounds like it's worth a try as well. Also I love that "creeeeeek" sound the bolts make after they start coming out with the heat haha, you'll feel really good hearing that sound!
I had a bolt that wouldn't come out on my 1965 Chevy pickup summer 2002, it went through the frame and I think it held the front part of truck on above bumper, that holds radiator grille.
Read on truck forum about trying "the candle trick" and I got bolt really hot, put a long candle on it and it melted quick and sucked up threads.
Tried twice, let it cool a little and the bolt was loose, took no effort to come out.
That’s a bummer. If you don’t feel like dealing with stud removal/replacement, I’ve got a set of manifolds off a 2000 that will fit your car. They’re in good shape with no bent or broken studs. I’d be glad to sell them to you cheap. They’re actually posted in the for sale section. Let me know! If not, best of luck with the repair.
I once had that happen to me when I had the stock manifolds, all I did was get a 12 point long 15mm(maybe 13-16) socket hammered it onto the stud and unscrewed it off. I believe the part number I used for a new stud was 12562640.
Also would recommend heat or penetrating fluid, best penetrating fluid I’ve come to use is mixing 50% ATF and 50% Acetone. Just make sure you shake before you use it and apply/spray. I would recommend using an oiler can if you go for that mixture.
Also for any penetrating fluid, never spray on any O2 sensor ever you will ruin it and it will not read correctly again. So be weary spraying near an O2 sensor.
The studs are simply junk, they bend and break very easily. Luckily, they are fairly easy to get out of the manifold since it is straight thread and not tapered like older stuff was. Grab the "nut/washer" part with a good sized pair of Vice Grips, heat the flange nice and hot and then turn the stud out of the manifold.
I removed all of them and just used bolts in mine. I wasn't paying GM for more of those crappy studs. Later, I switched to headers so my stud "problem" was gone.
I've broken off studs/bolts both on the heads and exhaust manifolds before I was always able to get them repaired at my local muffler shop----Even if the bolt or stud is broken below flush----- they can still remove it
They place a steel washer flush onto the broken bolt/stud--weld it in all the way into the broken piece
Then they weld a larger nut on top of the steel washer ( like a wrench sized nut of 9/16 to 5/8 inch )
Now you can unscrew the whole works out using the larger nut --Use lots of penetrating oil before any welding
I 've never had one NOT come out--
I broke off exhaust stud
