Slave Cylinder Grenaded?
Had another hiccup this morning. Tried to shift into reverse, wouldn't go. Tried all the other gears, same issue. Finally got it to go tho. I'm gonna rebleed the clutch & I'm gonna verify the shifter linkage is good & not loose. I'll do that later today. Also, sometimes when I have the clutch pressed in, whether in gear or not, I can hear a squealing.
I'm gonna adjust the pedal out just so it's not immediately engaging upon release to be safe. I think Jimmy is right. I think either the clutch warped or the throwout/release bearing just got hot & is falling apart. It's hard to tell. Tick doesn't have a warranty on their parts unless it's installed by a GM certified shop, so that's cool. So I'll be tearing this all apart again. Is there an upgraded or more robust slave cylinder & release bearing?
See, here's where I get really frustrated. They say not to adjust it beyond where it releases. Which I did. But now I'm hearing that can mess up the trans. So it's just really frustrating. Had another hiccup this morning. Tried to shift into reverse, wouldn't go. Tried all the other gears, same issue. Finally got it to go tho. I'm gonna rebleed the clutch & I'm gonna verify the shifter linkage is good & not loose. I'll do that later today. Also, sometimes when I have the clutch pressed in, whether in gear or not, I can hear a squealing.
If you adjusted the pedal higher and it still won't go into gear, it would be the throwout bearing, which style of throwout bearing did you install in 2017, the metal faced style, or the gun metal grey circle style bearing that can be removed from the lower portion? Because if the bearing is really bad and is slightly offset, not all fingers will be pushed down equally when you push down the clutch pedal, so it won't disengage properly, that would explain why sometimes it does go in and doesn't. Can you please take a picture of clutch pedal and then a picture of the turnbuckle and post it. I'm curios of its current height. Tick does warranty the tilton cylinder if its leaking, unless that warranty has changed. When you ordered your tick mc, did you get the standard 7/8 bore or the 13/16 bore, or even the 3/4 bore?
mcleod makes an aftermarket expensive adjustable slave cylinder, if you decide to tear it apart and go with another LS7 clutch buy it from rockauto their like $230 shipped, and also go with a stock oem master cylinder. The tick mc is overkill for a oem luk clutch.
Also for the noise in the engine bay, the header gasket didn't get pinched right? because if its slightly off you can get a minor exhaust leak which will make noise.
If you adjusted the pedal higher and it still won't go into gear, it would be the throwout bearing, which style of throwout bearing did you install in 2017, the metal faced style, or the gun metal grey circle style bearing that can be removed from the lower portion? Because if the bearing is really bad and is slightly offset, not all fingers will be pushed down equally when you push down the clutch pedal, so it won't disengage properly, that would explain why sometimes it does go in and doesn't. Can you please take a picture of clutch pedal and then a picture of the turnbuckle and post it. I'm curios of its current height. Tick does warranty the tilton cylinder if its leaking, unless that warranty has changed. When you ordered your tick mc, did you get the standard 7/8 bore or the 13/16 bore, or even the 3/4 bore?
mcleod makes an aftermarket expensive adjustable slave cylinder, if you decide to tear it apart and go with another LS7 clutch buy it from rockauto their like $230 shipped, and also go with a stock oem master cylinder. The tick mc is overkill for a oem luk clutch.
Also for the noise in the engine bay, the header gasket didn't get pinched right? because if its slightly off you can get a minor exhaust leak which will make noise.
If you adjusted the pedal higher and it still won't go into gear, it would be the throwout bearing, which style of throwout bearing did you install in 2017, the metal faced style, or the gun metal grey circle style bearing that can be removed from the lower portion? Because if the bearing is really bad and is slightly offset, not all fingers will be pushed down equally when you push down the clutch pedal, so it won't disengage properly, that would explain why sometimes it does go in and doesn't. Can you please take a picture of clutch pedal and then a picture of the turnbuckle and post it. I'm curios of its current height. Tick does warranty the tilton cylinder if its leaking, unless that warranty has changed. When you ordered your tick mc, did you get the standard 7/8 bore or the 13/16 bore, or even the 3/4 bore?
mcleod makes an aftermarket expensive adjustable slave cylinder, if you decide to tear it apart and go with another LS7 clutch buy it from rockauto their like $230 shipped, and also go with a stock oem master cylinder. The tick mc is overkill for a oem luk clutch.
Also for the noise in the engine bay, the header gasket didn't get pinched right? because if its slightly off you can get a minor exhaust leak which will make noise.
mcleod makes an aftermarket expensive adjustable slave cylinder, if you decide to tear it apart and go with another LS7 clutch buy it from rockauto their like $230 shipped, and also go with a stock oem master cylinder. The tick mc is overkill for a oem luk clutch.
Also for the noise in the engine bay, the header gasket didn't get pinched right? because if its slightly off you can get a minor exhaust leak which will make noise.
It's not an exhaust leak. It only rattles when I hit a bump. Doesn't get louder with rpm at all.
Its sounding like it's the throw out bearing. I'll get pics of the pedal & rod. Let me know what you think. I still have yet to increase the pedal since last night but I will when I get home.
Last edited by Scholioso; Jan 5, 2019 at 01:39 PM.
Seems like a bleed issue.
It's not exactly speed bleeder I suppose. It's a quick bleeder I believe is how Tick advertises it. Just a long hose with a brake bleed fitting on the end. I bled it pretty good. I couldn't get any more air to come out. You can't really pressurize & bleed the system like brakes can you?
Alright. So I've adjusted the pedal to start engaging roughly 1/4 inch of releasing the pedal from the floor. Everything seems to be going smoother. However there is still a squealing sound every now & then. Still thinking the throw out bearing.
The loose sound I've been hearing is the exhaust. I bolted the x pipe on crooked & one side is banging against something. Gotta get back under it & adjust it. It only really bangs when the engine first starts & shuts off.
Anyways. Thanks for ya'lls help!
The loose sound I've been hearing is the exhaust. I bolted the x pipe on crooked & one side is banging against something. Gotta get back under it & adjust it. It only really bangs when the engine first starts & shuts off.
Anyways. Thanks for ya'lls help!









