acroy

Planning for a session underneath my car

Recent to me C5Z has horrific diff whine. As in, it sounds like straight-cut gears. Super loud. Whine in all gears, all speeds, on throttle only. No noise off-throttle/coasting/engine braking. I tried synth Valvoline, Redline, and finally filled it with Redline "Shockproof" Heavy Oil as a cheap things to try. Zero effect. Diff is an RPM Level 2 with C6Z output shaft and 4.10 gears, very low miles, under 5k. I suspect it was set up wrong and/or not broken in properly.

- Plan to drop the whole driveline less engine.
- Will likely have RPM rebuild diff
- Will rebuild the Spec super twin clutch at the same time to be less grabby.
- what else should I check while everything is out? TT? couplers, bearings, etc etc?? TT is supposed to be new C5Z with 5k on it as well.
- Trans is RPM Level 5 with under 5k as well and seems perfect

thanks in advance

FR-CYA

- Rear main seal
- Pilot bearing
- Inspect and consider replacing rear suspension components (control arm bushings, ball joints, hub bearings, shocks, sway bar, sway bar endlinks)
- Brakes / brake lines
- Fuel filter
- Check for leaks between transmission and extension housing
- Install remote bleeder (if not already have one)

acroy

Makes sense
Will check and replace those items as needed.
Car has 32k and most suspension components have under 5k. Derlin bushings, shocks/sways, endlinks etc all those are good.
Slave already has a remote bleeder.
Fuel filter is a good idea

dork

I'd suggest you very carefully inspect the TT couplers. You don't have much mileage on the car but the couplers are old. I thought I could reinstall mine because they looked fantastic; like new... but I inadvertently twisted them somehow (I can't remember what I was doing; I think I was force-fitting them into a box) and the rubber crumbled under the torque/pressure. Old age memory loss... I can't remember how I did it; all I can remember is the image in my mind's eye of the rubber crumbling in my fingers--though I do remember it took a lot of "work" to destroy the coupler.

acroy

Will do
I've been putting it off but I need to determine what is 'best practice' for TT couplers: oe or some form of aftermarket. I believe people were using Derlin or solid aluminum couplers but there were drawbacks.
I want to do it once, right, and not worry about it again. Car is about 550whp, runs 200TW tires and I don't 'launch' it; I drive gently. So no extreme solution is needed.

bigsapper

Following this as I'll need to be looking at this soon. My difference is I will be launching at the drag strip. I would like to see pros/cons for what's available.

acroy

From reading old threads, Driveshaft Shop seems to be the go-to vendor
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/ As I get closer I'll give them a ring to discuss options.
I'll call RPM as well since it's their diff; they have been great on the phone.
I bought a full FSM to ensure I do it right the first time.

neutron82

dss has a 3.5" driveshaft that eliminates the couplers, that would be the strongest option and probably the only con is increased noise at idle... it probably weighs a little more than the stock setup with couplers but I don't think you would really notice a difference when driving the car... I have their 3" shaft with poly couplers in my car, I went with the 3" because I already had the couplers on my stock driveshaft but if the drivetrain ever has to come out again I might consider replacing it with the 3.5" so I don't have to mess with couplers anymore