I just finished a single intercooler setup on a Procharger. It's 11" X 27" and has a single inlet and outlet. I made some mounting brackets from aluminum and mounted it in front of the standard radiator and condensor. It fits perfectly with my custom Layed down radiator type install. The dual fans are retained, The air inlet is cold air from in front of the radiator. It uses much larger tubing and a whole lot less plumbing. The brake ducts look like they can be retained, also. Best of all I can put this kit together considerably cheaper than the standard kit. I'm going to figure out exactly what it will cost me in the next day or two. :cheers:




[Modified by Andy@AandACorvette, 9:37 PM 10/30/2002]

 

:cheers: :cheers: keep us posted.....

what s the dyno #s look like?

 

these kits keep getting better and better.. great job Andy :cheers: :cheers:

 

:cool:

:cheers:

 

Brent with one of these or the use of the stock ATI kit plumbing...you would be putting down over 600 RWHP. I never got a chance to get close to your 1/4 mile times in my old H&C car...but our numbers were very close...trust me...there is nothing comparable to being blown...and yes I totally respect strokers..but I have ridden in them many times...it is like being in a stroker with a shot of nos when ever you get into the throttle.

 

Andy, you're getting a lot closer to what I'm looking for. Can you please send/post a pic. BTW, how's the new package/system working out on you're car?

 

Off idle response? Crisp? Consistent? Oil and water temps with preheated air through the inter(after)cooler? Ambient temps during tests? Thanks. :yesnod:

 

Hey!

You should be playing with the new Vortech!!

 

I've got one more Procharger to install in the next few days and then I'm going to do the Vortech on mine!

 

Looking good Andy!!
JB

 

Looks good. That should be way more efficient and less of a pressure drop.

My question is how much HP can you reliably squeeze out of the stock bottom end. To me in order to get high hp #'s you have to do two things, big bore + nitrous or forged bottom end + supercharger/turbocharger. So far I have not heard of any reliable big bore supercharger setups.

 

Andy,

I am most interested in IAT's. I really doubt there is much of an appreciable difference in pressure drop between the twins and the single FMIC. Did you do any logging on that same car (the one that now has the single FMIC) and record IAT's? Then (hopefully on a day with a similar ambient temperature) test log the IAT's on the same car with the single FMIC. I think this would be the biggest selling point of the single FMIC over the twins. With lower IAT's, yow will make more HP just by having a lower intake charge temperature, but you can also increase the timing advance and get more HP that way too.

Please post this data if you can get it.

 

C5 Vert...I think you were directing your question towards Andy...but I would like to share my 2 cents about the S/C Super Stroker...and that is, in my opinion...a waste.
I feel that one should either mod to a Superstroker 427 or do a S/C (with H&C..or just a Cam to take advantage of the FI). One does not need both unless you are making a drag only car..the amount of power each puts to the rear wheels is substantially enough and what good is the power if you can't get traction.
My car would not benefit from a Stoker at all,,,and neither would the other Blown cars you see a lot of on this forum...if I was going to do a stroker..I would take off the blower...these blown cars are making alot more HP's than anything else outside of a Superstorker with a shot of NoS. There are few guys doing 427's and blowers....but it serves no street benefit...the only place it would dominate is on a dedicated drag only car. Which would probably do much better in an FBody...look at Wade's high 8 second run...he was stroked with nos...imagine if it was blown!

 

:cheers:

 

Can you post a pic of the big intercooler out of the car? Could it be used in series with the two smaller ones I just got done installing in my car (if it could replace the T pipe under the MAF)?

 

No, you can't use it in series. It has one 3" inlet and outlet. There is a lot less plumbing. Just one single tube out of the blower, through the intercooler and into the engine. I'm trying to figure out how much all the plumbing etc. will cost. It looks like I can do this setup about $500 cheaper than the twin intercooler system.

 

So your saying that your car is just as fast, on the street, as John Lingenfelter's 427 blown street car? The one that does 9.23@150 (that was with slicks). The main reason the 427 w/blower is a better setup is that it doesn't take big boost to produce say 600rwhp. TQ is much better at lower rpm levels. Lower boost results in longer engine life and reliability. Granted, the 427 is alot more $$$$, (the C5R block is over $6K) but you get what you pay for. As an update to my 427 D-1 S/C project ...its taking about 6-8 weeks longer due to an complete custom redesign of the intercooler, pulleys, idler and plumbing. The design is finished, parts are coming in now and my car will see the dyno in the next few weeks. :cheers:


[Modified by HIGHRPM, 1:02 PM 11/1/2002]

 

Looks good with respect to the SC system. But it partially blocks the radiator and the air on the discharge side which does flow through the radiator is hotter because of the heat it removed from the SC discharge. This might cause some problem in hot climates. What are you doing about the shroud?

 

ANDY-UPS IS DELIVERING MY INTAKE SETUP TUESDAY, THANKS FOR THE PICS OF THE RADIATOR LAYDOWN, GETTING A CUSTOM VENTED HOOD ON THIS WEEK WILL GO TO WORK ON THE RADIATOR NEXT WEEK. THE SINGLE INTERCOOLER SETUP LOOKS GREAT. HOWEVER I'M VERY ANXIOUS TO GET THE SHROUD SUPPLIED BY ATI OFF MY BE-COOL ITS BLOCKING 1/3 OF MY RADIATOR, WILL THE LARGE SINGLE INTERCOOLER BLOCK AIR FLOW TO THE RADIATOR, IF THE CONDENSOR DOESN'T I WOULDN'T THINK THE INTERCOOLER WOULD BUT IT IS VERY HUMID IN FLORIDA AND I'VE HAD A HELL OF A TIME AND SPENT A LOT OF MONEY TRYING TO RUN MY AC DURING THE PAST SUMMER MONTHS. IT IS A SHAME TO SPEND ALL THE MONEY ME AND ALL THE OTHER GUYS HAVE TO MAKE THIS F------ KIT WORK PROPERLY. I ALSO HAD A HELL OF A TIME KEEPING THE LOWER PLUMBING OFF THE GROUND AS PULLING IT UP JAMMED THE LARGE FAN BLADES AND STALLED THE FAN. I SCRAPPED THE LARGE FAN A PUT A POWERFUL 12" PULL FAN THAT WOULD CLEAR THE PLUMBING THAT PULLED ON THE INSIDE AND ANOTHER OF THE SAME FANS PUSHING ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RADIATOR BUT IT WAS TRYING TO PUSH AIR THROUGH THE REDICULOUS AIR CLEANER PORTION OF THE FAN. I CAN DRIVE IN TRAFFIC DURING HOT DAYS NOW BUT HAVE TO TURN OFF THE AC TO DROP THE TEMP MOST OF THE TIME. THANKS AGAIN I WILL BE MONITORING YOUR POST AS I'M INTERESTED IN THIS NEW SETUP AND YOUR BRACKET AND PULLEY SETUPS AS WELL. I LOOK FORWARD TO A PRICE ON A KIT THAT ESSENTIALLY INCLUDES EVERYTHING BUT THE PUMP AS I COULD HAVE HAD A PORCHE TURBO FOR THE MONEY I'VE DUMPED INTO MAKING THIS KIT WORK ALREADY. THANKS FOR YOUR ADVICE AND I LOOK FORWARD TO ADDING ADDITIONAL A&A UPGRADES IN THE NEAR FUTURE. BILL-NEPTUNE BEACH FL