I have a clunk noise coming from back suspension area, but it it not consistent with suspension travel over smooth bumps in the road. Makes me think of brakes or sway bar.
It looks like my rear sway bar is installed incorrectly. Please look at this pic of my rear end link and confirm if this is correct or not.
Thanks in advance.
Rob

 

The installation looks OK. I've found that noises from the rear/front sway bars were eliminated when I replaced the sway bar rubber bushings (after 13 years/42K miles) which are barely visible in your pictures showing just the end links. Probably greasing the sway bar rubber bushings with silicone grease would be a remedy but not last as long as replacing the bushings. In Houston after 10 years of use, the noises show up/got worse when the outside temperature goes below 60 degrees F and are quite evident going over a speed bump (or as they say in Africa over the sleeping policeman). The rear sway bar rubber bushings brackets held by ALUMINUMUM frame mount (upper) bolts require extra special care to avoid stripping the bolts in the aluminum frame. The upper bolts should be started by hand (3 - 4 threads) to avoid cross threading having applied anti-seize to the threads before installation and then torqued properly which I believe is 35 - 40 ft-lbs. It is real easy to damage the threads in the aluminum frame. Same for the front rubber bushings held by four bolts into the frame. I've wanted to try greasing the bushings using a needle grease applicator as an interim solution but I've replaced the bushings every 10 - 15 years. I have Hotchkis sway bars and know that the rear bushings are split and I assume your factory bushings are the same. I suspect one might have to remove the entire sway bar to gain adequate access to the bushings; another reason I've just replaced the rubber bushings.

 

The sway bar is connected properly, however, the ends could be worn and cause noise. You'll need to check them for excessive play to know for sure. Take the end attached to the sway bar lose and move it by hand. If you feel any play in either end, they should be replaced.

 

Torque Specs for rear sway bar.

Stabilizer Shaft Insulator (Lower) Clamp Nut 95 N·m 70 lb ft

Stabilizer Shaft Insulator (Upr) Clamp Bolt 65 N·m 49 lb ft

Stabilizer Shaft Link Nuts 72 N·m 53 lb ft

 

I replaced my stock bars with heavier ones from a member who was going even heavier. I replaced all my end links with metal ones as the rear ones in my 98 vert were plastic, I wrapped several layers of Teflon tape (the roll which you use for sealing threads when plumbing) around the bar where the bushings are holding the bar to the frame. No squeaks or thuds going over bumps in the road. I tightened the end links as tight as possible as I heard that if loose could cause thuds and noise. You might try putting Teflon tape under your bushings.

 

There have been reports of the sway bar bushings trapping moisture between the bars and bushings, causing the bar to rust out and break. OP, has this happened to yours?

 

Not sure, but I'm going to remove the endlinks and see if noise is gone. Been listening to it for a while now.

 

I dunno if you have completed this project but just in case.....................be CAREFUL when threading the upper bolts back into cradle.
Don't do what i did !

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...per-mount.html

It's all fixed now but it could have been prevented.

 

Easy way to verify sway bar noises is to unbolt one endlink and drive around...if noises are gone then you have a endlink issue. If you do in fact need endlinks might I suggest an overall upgrade to a better rear sway bar. Steinjager has a complete kit... 1" chromoly rear sway bar, poly bushings and a set of adjustable chromoly endlinks for ~$175. Its an upgrade you can easily install yourself and you will feel a noticeable difference immediately. High mileage car? Spend ~$300 and get their F/R sway bar kit and replace everything for a great upgrade.