99 C5 FRC Clutch
01-29-2019, 02:18 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
99 C5 FRC Clutch
Question :
Will a factory c6 z06 clutch work in the c5 frc ( bolt up , any issues ? )
With the stock c6 z06 clutch installed , will the stock c5 frc clutch slave be used or will it use the c6 z06 slave ?
Thats for any insight !
Will a factory c6 z06 clutch work in the c5 frc ( bolt up , any issues ? )
With the stock c6 z06 clutch installed , will the stock c5 frc clutch slave be used or will it use the c6 z06 slave ?
Thats for any insight !
01-29-2019, 03:57 PM
#2
1/4 mile/AutoX
my wife and I have installed LS 7 clutches and flywheels in our 02 C5Z and our 99 coupe, work fantastic !!! use the C 5 slave, pay attention to the weights if present (flywheel) must go in new setup. the slave has to be shimmed,https://www.tickperformance.com/tick...im-kit-3-pack/ (bought GM ones off E-bay) our Z had the weights the 99 none for what it's worth !!!
01-29-2019, 05:37 PM
#4
1/4 mile/AutoX
01-29-2019, 06:14 PM
#5
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01-29-2019, 07:06 PM
#6
Pounder:
Heavier and more expensive, though. It's hard to imagine that the feeling of the clutch kit is worth the extra poundage.
The LS6 clutch is a perfectly good stock-style clutch for stock-level power; a lighter flywheel improves response. I don't see the point of adding, what, 15 pounds, maybe 20 pounds, to an already not particularly light clutch system.
Obviously you do you, but I can't imagine recommending someone add serious rotating weight to the rear of their engine on a stock or near-stock power level. Which is why I'm asking OP what their power levels and goals are
Heavier and more expensive, though. It's hard to imagine that the feeling of the clutch kit is worth the extra poundage.
The LS6 clutch is a perfectly good stock-style clutch for stock-level power; a lighter flywheel improves response. I don't see the point of adding, what, 15 pounds, maybe 20 pounds, to an already not particularly light clutch system.
Obviously you do you, but I can't imagine recommending someone add serious rotating weight to the rear of their engine on a stock or near-stock power level. Which is why I'm asking OP what their power levels and goals are
01-29-2019, 07:49 PM
#7
1/4 mile/AutoX
01-29-2019, 08:33 PM
#8
I don't understand why you're linking that. Did you put on a lightweight flywheel? Great! OP can also do that. With an LS6 clutch. If at stock power levels. The stock LS7 flywheel is in no way lightweight. Nor did you mention that you put in a lightened kit.
01-29-2019, 10:05 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
My buddies frc will get a cam , headers and a tune .
We were discussing the z06 clutch today but needed to figure out what slave to use .
We were discussing the z06 clutch today but needed to figure out what slave to use .
01-30-2019, 09:13 AM
#10
Burning Brakes
Just my worthless $0.02:
I have a 99 FRC that went from bone stock directly to a cam, headers, ls6intake,cold air, 42#injectors and a tune, among a bunch of supporting mods, that made me go from stock power to a respectable 397WHP/400WTQ. I also have C6Z06 wheels and tires (325 Michelin Sport Cup 2's in rear). Kept my stock clutch and I can tell you this. Clutch grabs fine even on aggressive launches and I have no slipping in any gear shift BUT since my added power and added heat generation on the headers, I do suffer from the clutch fluid boiling after some WOTs, roll racing, or back to back pulls. This is a common symptom that happens with added power. If you decide to keep your stock clutch setup, your clutch should still grip at 400/400 but you will need to update your clutch fluid to a high temp DOT 4 and do frequent clutch fluid flushes to avoid a sticking clutch pedal.
I have a 99 FRC that went from bone stock directly to a cam, headers, ls6intake,cold air, 42#injectors and a tune, among a bunch of supporting mods, that made me go from stock power to a respectable 397WHP/400WTQ. I also have C6Z06 wheels and tires (325 Michelin Sport Cup 2's in rear). Kept my stock clutch and I can tell you this. Clutch grabs fine even on aggressive launches and I have no slipping in any gear shift BUT since my added power and added heat generation on the headers, I do suffer from the clutch fluid boiling after some WOTs, roll racing, or back to back pulls. This is a common symptom that happens with added power. If you decide to keep your stock clutch setup, your clutch should still grip at 400/400 but you will need to update your clutch fluid to a high temp DOT 4 and do frequent clutch fluid flushes to avoid a sticking clutch pedal.
Last edited by turabo87; 01-30-2019 at 09:18 AM.
01-30-2019, 10:45 AM
#11
1/4 mile/AutoX
no I didn't, just wanted to show a bit heaver setup is not the detriment you claim ???? I can tell no difference in the preformace or any other negative the LS7 clutch is a great setup for me !!!!!!! don't really care what you think !!!!
Last edited by Pounder; 01-30-2019 at 10:47 AM.
01-30-2019, 06:01 PM
#12
Pounder: You seem really, really upset about this. I am giving OP advice, not you. You don't need to take the advice. If you want to run a heavier clutch that's your business entirely. If you can't feel a difference, I might suggest that that's a you problem, and not relevant to advice for other people.
zoomz: I would tend to recommend that for cam and headers, you stick with a C5Z clutch kit, full kit. It won't require questions of which slave to use, since the C5 gear is easier to swap. As turabo87 said, regardless of what you do, think about the fluid -- I recommend you add a bleeder to make clutch bleeds easy, and you'll pretty much be golden somewhere near a 400whp power level.
zoomz: I would tend to recommend that for cam and headers, you stick with a C5Z clutch kit, full kit. It won't require questions of which slave to use, since the C5 gear is easier to swap. As turabo87 said, regardless of what you do, think about the fluid -- I recommend you add a bleeder to make clutch bleeds easy, and you'll pretty much be golden somewhere near a 400whp power level.
01-30-2019, 06:06 PM
#13
1/4 mile/AutoX
Pounder: You seem really, really upset about this. I am giving OP advice, not you. You don't need to take the advice. If you want to run a heavier clutch that's your business entirely. If you can't feel a difference, I might suggest that that's a you problem, and not relevant to advice for other people.
zoomz: I would tend to recommend that for cam and headers, you stick with a C5Z clutch kit, full kit. It won't require questions of which slave to use, since the C5 gear is easier to swap. As turabo87 said, regardless of what you do, think about the fluid -- I recommend you add a bleeder to make clutch bleeds easy, and you'll pretty much be golden somewhere near a 400whp power level.
zoomz: I would tend to recommend that for cam and headers, you stick with a C5Z clutch kit, full kit. It won't require questions of which slave to use, since the C5 gear is easier to swap. As turabo87 said, regardless of what you do, think about the fluid -- I recommend you add a bleeder to make clutch bleeds easy, and you'll pretty much be golden somewhere near a 400whp power level.
01-30-2019, 07:33 PM
#14
Of course I have. It was much heavier, and felt much slower, than the other clutches I have tried. Sure, it had a nice smooth and easy actuation, but so did anything else using a stock master cylinder.
01-31-2019, 09:47 AM
#16
Burning Brakes
Maybe even a standard DOT4 (like Valvoline DOT3/4) might not cut it for you, it sure is not cutting it for me. I’m going to upgrade soon to MOTUL 600 because Valvoline DOT3/4 still boils in my car.
01-31-2019, 11:47 AM
#17
Just as a point of reference, the PO installed the LS7 clutch and flywheel setup in my '99 FRC with a 405/395 warmed over LS6 after smoking though a new factory C5 Z06 clutch setup.
01-31-2019, 03:06 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
Interesting. I'm still on a stock LS1 clutch/flywheel at 397/400 and haven't smoked it yet. But I'll admit clutch fluid boils really quick.
02-01-2019, 08:03 AM
#19
Melting Slicks
You actually have to use a lightweight flywheel with an LS7 clutch/pp to get it back down to the stock weight. The LS7 clutch/PP is HEAVY!!! I actually went with a fidanza aluminum fw and ls6 clutch on my 99frc, and I LOVE it! One of my favorite mods I've done to the car. Did not affect driveability at low rpms at all, and the car is much more responsive. I'm probably making just a little bit less power than a c5z, but if you want to go for a lot more power, obviously you will need a better clutch, but IMO there are a lot better options than the LS7. The LS7 is just inexpensive. :P
02-01-2019, 09:55 AM
#20
Yes the stock GM LS7 clutch and flywheel combo is heavy.
Yes the combo is fairly inexpensive and its readily available.
Yes the pedal pressure will seem a bit "heavy" with the LS7 clutch combo and the stock C5 clutch master cylinder.
And yes the LS7 clutch combo offers just about the best "overall manners" for the clamping force provided, which you will need as your power levels being to reach those of the LS7.
But being heavy is not always bad. It maybe bad if you are looking for the absolute best dyno bragging numbers or if you are building a true track car where any extra weight (short of properly placed ballast) is you enemy. But the added weight is not so bad for a street driven daily driver (especially in stop and go traffic) or even a dual purpose Corvette that also see autocross use or occasional road course track duty. The added mass may slow down maximum possible rate of engine acceleration, but it also makes shifting easier and smoother as well as helps extent the life of the transmission syncros and the friction material on the disc. How you ask? Because the added inertia that comes from the added mass being in motion also does not let the engine decelerate as fast either. Another positive of the added mass is that it also tends to make it much easier to tune for a smoother idle and off idle characteristics. This can be very helpful if you also happen to be running a "large" camshaft along with having to deal with say a bit too slow intake charge velocities at lower RPM's as a result of having installed an over-sized; throttle body, intake manifold and head ports.
As always it all comes down to personal tastes and there are always trade offs, so YMMV.
Yes the combo is fairly inexpensive and its readily available.
Yes the pedal pressure will seem a bit "heavy" with the LS7 clutch combo and the stock C5 clutch master cylinder.
And yes the LS7 clutch combo offers just about the best "overall manners" for the clamping force provided, which you will need as your power levels being to reach those of the LS7.
But being heavy is not always bad. It maybe bad if you are looking for the absolute best dyno bragging numbers or if you are building a true track car where any extra weight (short of properly placed ballast) is you enemy. But the added weight is not so bad for a street driven daily driver (especially in stop and go traffic) or even a dual purpose Corvette that also see autocross use or occasional road course track duty. The added mass may slow down maximum possible rate of engine acceleration, but it also makes shifting easier and smoother as well as helps extent the life of the transmission syncros and the friction material on the disc. How you ask? Because the added inertia that comes from the added mass being in motion also does not let the engine decelerate as fast either. Another positive of the added mass is that it also tends to make it much easier to tune for a smoother idle and off idle characteristics. This can be very helpful if you also happen to be running a "large" camshaft along with having to deal with say a bit too slow intake charge velocities at lower RPM's as a result of having installed an over-sized; throttle body, intake manifold and head ports.
As always it all comes down to personal tastes and there are always trade offs, so YMMV.
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